"Dirty" Blaze King windows

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All true. But my point back when I started this thread 7.5 years ago is that the BK30's actually don't even get all that dirty when running on low burn. Not like the photos I've seen of classic Princess and King models, anyway. It appears the air wash is more aggressive on these newer models, whether intentionally or by accident of design.
Oh, I am not disputing anything. You are likely correct. My glass can get completely gunked up but it will clean up nicely when burning on high. I recall looking at some pics of your stoves and the glass looked cleaner than mine. The question is, how many low burns after a hot burn was the pic taken….you know what I mean
 
All true. But my point back when I started this thread 7.5 years ago is that the BK30's actually don't even get all that dirty when running on low burn. Not like the photos I've seen of classic Princess and King models, anyway. It appears the air wash is more aggressive on these newer models, whether intentionally or by accident of design.
It's the depth of the firebox.

BKVP
 
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Oh, I am not disputing anything. You are likely correct. My glass can get completely gunked up but it will clean up nicely when burning on high. I recall looking at some pics of your stoves and the glass looked cleaner than mine. The question is, how many low burns after a hot burn was the pic taken….you know what I mean
lol... it was 7.5 years ago! I can barely remember what I did with these two stoves yesterday, let alone back then! ;lol

Probably whatever I said in the OP. I can say the one that's burned on 12 hour cycles never gets more than that 2" x 4" triangle of dark in the corners, it stays pretty clean. The one that's burned on 24 hour circles usually has an area extending from the lower corners maybe 50% to 100% larger than that, or 3"x6" up to 4"x8". The center and upper half are always pretty clean, no matter how I burn them.
 
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When you consider door glass accumulation, the King collects the most. The 9" deep firebox, followed by the Princess at 6" and the others at around 3".

Surely how you "use it" will influence the build up on the glass. Often folks cut their wood to the maximum N/S measurement, putting the piece end right near the glass. That results in the smoke stained appearance. Cutting the wood 2" shorter, that helps the air wash flow better.

Also, E/W loaders do so because they can fit in longer pieces. But that creates an air-dam, blocking the circulatory design for the airwash (front to back).

Wet wood, piece size and operating temps also contribute to more or less accumulation.

BKVP
 
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I’ve noticed a performance difference with my stove when I load it E/W. I usually only load N/S. My firewood is cut to 16”, which gives some room between the wood and glass.

Loading N/S the fire burns from the front/middle of the firebox, to the front/sides, and then works it’s way to the back.
 
I’ve noticed a performance difference with my stove when I load it E/W. I usually only load N/S. My firewood is cut to 16”, which gives some room between the wood and glass.

Loading N/S the fire burns from the front/middle of the firebox, to the front/sides, and then works it’s way to the back.
Same here. Stove burns better n/s. I get lazy when bucking🤪. End up with some splits 21” that can only fit e/w
 
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But the stove has the air flowing over the glass from the top...

The issue is that when one runs low and slow, smoke is present in the firebox (that the cat cleans up and converts into heat), and the airflow to maintain that low rate is too small to fully keep the glass clean.

It is a necessary consequence of running low and slow while having a large window.

Note that low is only three and a half 1.5 kW plug in heaters. That is really low (for a stove this big, allowing it to maintain this for 20 or 30 hrs depending on the model).

So your observations are correct, but it's a simple consequence of the parameters that give you the low and slow capability.

If this doesn't suit ones needs, get a tube stove that has a higher low limit, or a small tube stove with a similar low output limit but one that you then have to reload every few hours.
 
I know how you feel. I have an Ashford 30 for about 6 years and no matter what I do, there is ALWAYS creasote build up on the glass and interior. I am a retired design engineer and have spoken to BK many times. The issue really is all about the stove NOT having a bottom draft that flows over the glass. I used to work in the stove industry and have good understanding on this
I'd like to know more about your stove design experience with deep fireboxes, catalytic combustion and thermostat control mechanisms. Please feel free to PM me so we share thoughts.

BKVP
 
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Lol, I thought to post "don't do it, he'll run with your ideas, get rich and sell them yourselves"...