Critique my woodshed design.

[gzecc]

I've added some detail from the suggestions given here. Added in the diagonal bracing, hurricane clips, and bracing for the overhang. As drawn now the woodshed is 96 sq ft, I haven't check into local laws about permitting, tax implications, ect. yet. I wanted to have a good idea of what I was going to be building before I got into it too much. The slats on the wall as drawn are 1x6 dimensional lumber (.75 x 5.5 actual) with 2" spacing. This may change once I see it in person, its hard for me to picture what the right spacing would be.View attachment 127987

Throw some of these into the rafters. Very strong.
(broken link removed to http://tcsportcharlotte.com/simpson-h11z-hurricane-clip-tie-z-max.aspx)

 

[Hoozie]

Make sure you get some blocking between the rafters. Will stiffen everything up, and help keep them from twisting. (2x4 perpendicular to the rafters, between each one)

As for the foundation... Assuming there's always something in it, I wouldn't worry about the wind carrying it away. But, if it was ever empty, that may be a possibility?

This is basically what I was planning to build, only a bit bigger, and probably with sonotubes to hold it against the sometimes wild wind we get.

 

[wahoowad]

If you go with shed foundation blocks ,underpin down so it doesn't blow over in high winds.

I was going to use these same style blocks for my roof. How do I underpin?

 

[glennm]

Mine is 16x8 open front and back. The flooring collapsed in mine and I had to unload it and pour concrete. Have the floor sit on the ground, maybe put down some gravel first? It will be solid that way! I also put a divider in the centre, it makes the rows more stable for sure! That way you can take out one side if you wish

 

[billb3]

I'd run all the floor joists N/S rather than half of them short E/W like that
less cutting, less hardware
and use 5/4 decking E/W

easier to run a 4x4 under if the weight starts bowing the joists, shouldn't if they are blocked

 

[BEConklin]

I've added some detail from the suggestions given here. Added in the diagonal bracing, hurricane clips, and bracing for the overhang. As drawn now the woodshed is 96 sq ft, I haven't check into local laws about permitting, tax implications, ect. yet. I wanted to have a good idea of what I was going to be building before I got into it too much. The slats on the wall as drawn are 1x6 dimensional lumber (.75 x 5.5 actual) with 2" spacing. This may change once I see it in person, its hard for me to picture what the right spacing would be.View attachment 127987

But those diagonal bracings for the overhang force you to keep all those posts in the front. Otherwise you could remove all but the center post. For that reason alone I'd re-think having the front roof that way and maybe have a simple lean-to roof with a slightly larger overhang in the front.
If you're set on saving the roof style that you have, I think you should make the roof with triangular trusses and bring your front posts out so that they are forward of a plumb line directly under the "peak" of the dual pitch roof instead of behind that line as they are now.

That will not only support the roof better - but will also make the interior of the shed larger while keeping the same roof size.

 

[valley ranch]

Re: post #23 I like that, very good.

Richard

 

[BEConklin]

I'm no engineer - but I drew this up to give you an idea of what I mean...it does not show the features of the side walls - but it shows the front and rear posts and an idea for the saltbox roof truss. You need to choose the angles and the lumber dimensions. Each set of roof rafters would be assembled as a truss.

Alongside the top of the front post you'll see a 2X8 - with that and another attached to the front of the posts and running the width of the shed, I think you should be able to have only one center post and the two side posts - yet your dual angle roof would be fully supported. The drawback to this design would be that you'll need more lumber - but you'll have more floor space in your shed as well.

I do think this is needlessly complicated - it would be simpler with a lean to roof - but I think something like this would be needed if you really want a dual angle or "saltbox" style roof with a protruding front overhang that extends beyond the front wall of the shed itself

If you want more of an overhang, I think you should be able to move the front posts back past the vertical members of the roof trusses - but not too far.

 

[BEConklin]

'doh - I should have brought my camera today when I went back to our other house which will soon be on the market....we have a 24' X12 shed there with a saltbox roof that overhangs....I'm pretty sure the rafters are all 2x6 or smaller - but they're set up in trusses and have held up to snow loads of 24" + for years. I might be going back tomorrow - if so I'll take a few pics from the inside.

 

[xman23]

I was going to use these same style blocks for my roof. How do I underpin?

I haven't used those shed foundation blocks that sit on the ground. They do look like a good way to keep the wood away from ground contact. I did have a lite metal shed blow over, so that's my concern with not having a connection to the ground. One idea is rebar driven into the ground at the corners and tied to the posts. Maybe the manufacture of the blocks have other solutions.

 

[Archer39]

'doh - I should have brought my camera today when I went back to our other house which will soon be on the market....we have a 24' X12 shed there with a saltbox roof that overhangs....I'm pretty sure the rafters are all 2x6 or smaller - but they're set up in trusses and have held up to snow loads of 24" + for years. I might be going back tomorrow - if so I'll take a few pics from the inside.

Have you had a chance to take any pictures if your shed? What you described is the exact shed I want to build. I am not very good with the design aspect of construction but I can build anything from pictures or a sketch.

 

[dleeallen]

I think you want the headers on top of the posts. That way there is no shear on bolts. I have 3 posts on mine that spans about 20'. Header is 2x8 doubled up. Other side is attached to the back of my garage. Simple metal roof. Held up to vt snow so far!

 

[BEConklin]

Have you had a chance to take any pictures if your shed? What you described is the exact shed I want to build. I am not very good with the design aspect of construction but I can build anything from pictures or a sketch.

Sorry - I haven't been able to get back over there - and I won't be able to do so today either. Maybe tomorrow though.

 

[BEConklin]

I had to go over there after all...

snapped some pics.

Apologies for the freakin' mess....we're still in the process of moving stuff out

This shed is 8 years old now and it's held up to some of the worst snow loads I've seen in my entire life here in CT.

Above is a shot of as much of the inside as I could get. To the right in the background, you're looking at the inside of a small covered porch built into the shed.
All the trusses and wall studs are 2X4s set up 16" on center. The plywood on the roof is 1/2"
To the right is the front of the shed. You can see 2X6 blocking tying the top of the front wall to the roof trusses - but the only reason they used 2X6 and not 2X4 is so that the overhang of the 2X6 over the 2X4 stud wall would give them something to nail the plywood to when the made the soffet under the overhang.

Above is looking up into the trusses - the front of the shed is to your left.

same as the other pic....front to your left

Above picture shows you how the trusses are tied in at the top of the rear wall.

and this above pic shows you how they tie in at the front wall. note the oversized 2x6 blocking and the plywood making up the soffet for the overhang in the front.


The next pix show a sweep from the rear to the front.

Hope this helps!

 

[boilERIK]

Instead of wood slats on the sides of your structure consider using stock panels from an agriculture store. They are a heavy gauge 3/16" galvanized wire fencing product with approximately 4x4 holes. It is incredibly durable and would make an excellent material to retain the wood on the outsides of the shed and allow for maximum ventilation.they cost about $20 bucks at tractor supply and are 54" tall by 16' long. Also consider using corrugated metal roofing nailing the 2x4 perlins perpendicular to the rafters will alleviate the need for blocking the rafters. with a metal roof the snow will fall of it more readily and the roof will be less susceptible to condensation on the underside due to the snow insulating the ply wood and causing a situation were condensation will occur in the early spring when air temps are warm but there is still snow. it will create a better drying environment.