Confused

[Hogwildz]

Roo and Gunner,

The Super 27, Fusion, Classic and Spectrum are all in the 1.5 cu. ft. firebox range and don't feature EBT, as far I can tell. Its hard to believe that 1.5 cu. ft is good for 2000 sq. ft. of heating as they say on their website. But assuming they aren't over listing those stoves beyond their capability, they certainly seem like overkill for his cabin in its current state.

I know that Pacific Energy stoves are wonderfully engineering and constructed pieces of heating equipment and I don't mean to take anything away from that. But how can a 1.4 cu. ft. firebox possibly give good strong overnight burns without EBT? My stove is 1.6 cu. ft. and stretching it beyond 7 hours with any useable heat is basically impossible.

Also, since by the manufacturer's rating, the Super 27, Fusion, Classic and Spectrum are all probably on the large end of stoves he could use, he could certainly accomplish lower BTU output by simply putting less wood in the stove. How though, does that work into the equation when the weather is mild? A 40 degree night is going to require a small fire in the stove, which means little wood, which translates into a very remote possibility of an overnight burn, even though the heat will be needed throughout the night because of the heat loss of a relatively poorly insulated cabin.

This is where I think the catalytic stove comes into play. A catalytic stove can be loaded with wood, allowed to reach cat operating temperature and then cranked down to burn extremely slowly with low heat output. It doesn't necessarily require tiny loads of wood to accomplish diminished heat output.

I know you Pacific Energy owners are gung-ho on these stoves, but I just don't see how any non-catalytic stove is the solution for a small space like this.

Bro, the thing your failing to think of is:
You can fill the firebox of a stove up, and not run it at 600 degrees. If you fill it and run it around 400-450, it will burn all night & not cook you out of the house. If you use a smaller stove doing the same thing, less load at same temp lasts shorter time. And higher temps even shorter burn times. My Insert doesn't even come close to cooking me out of the same room its in, granted I have very high cathedral ceilings, so that does play a part. What Gunner & Roo are trying to say from what I am reading is, he has a 750 sf cabin now, but is building a newer home in the next 6 yrs. If he is building a much larger house in the future. A smaller stove now will not be sufficient then. Unless of course he can buy another bigger stove and use this one also.
Why must there always be arguments about P.E.'S and VC's. Etc etc etc. We boast of our stoves because they perform well for us. VC's are boasted for because they perform well for their owners. So mine puts out more gph then the others. I am still putting out far less that my old pc of crap. Not to mention I am burning on stove as other may be burning 2, and even if lower gph, that doesn't account for the amount of wood they are burning in the 2 to my 1. I have had enough of numbers etc. I love my stove, am happy with it, and I know I have lower emissions than my old insert had. Ids it the best? I won't say yes or no. Does it perform how I need it to? does it heat my house? Am I not burning oil, You betcha! I can heat this place at 300° or 750°. just depends on how cold it is outside, and how warm I want it inside.
I have never been baked out. But again, my house is farily optimal for my setup. I am luck in that regard.

 

[Corie]

Hrm, ok.

Seems silly to be to measure space in the firebox that wood cannot occupy. Oh well. I guess I'm being conservative when I measure firebox volume then.

Gunner when you load wood to the bottom of the baffle, how does the secondary work? I'm just wondering, since it seems there is no place for the gases to expand, contact the secondary air and burn? Again, this is me wondering out loud, not trying to be a pain in the ash.

 

[Gunner]

I will take a picture for you soon (currently 32deg) so too warm tonight.

Basically I get a top down secondary where the wood on the bottom will be dark and blue flames pour out of the holes in the front on the baffle... no dancing flames but a solid jet of flame out of the holes.

 

[Corie]

please take a picture! that sounds like it appeals to my inner pyro

 

[Roospike]

Corie.......Your a pain in the ash!

I measured the inside of my Summit and the cubic feet came up to 2.97 and its listed at 3.0 cubic feet so I'm guessing that when PE measured the med size stove i dont think it come up .5 cf off but I'm not going to get into a measuring pi$$ing match so whatever you think brother.

AGAIN PEOPLE (some people) the leaky cabin is 700 sf and the stove is going to go into a newly built house in the future..............PLEASE READ THE POST , PLEASE !

Some members are reading what BILL actually wrote and other are not for some reason.

AGAIN , to the owners of steel and cast stove .......... if you can not heat your home with lower heat output and higher higher output and operate the stove to do so then its operator error or your need a different stove.

This whole "steel stoves have to or do run hot and secondary stoves have to be 500° + to be efficient" issue is GETTING REAL OLD !

If you have to run your stove at 500° + ALL THE TIME to be efficient and or your steel stove is cooking you out of the house / room YOU NEED A DIFFERENT STOVE !

NOT ALL STEEL STOVES BLAST YOU OUT !
NOT ALL SECONDARY BURN STOVES HAVE TO BE 500° TO HAVE SECONDARY BURN !

HELLO? Please study .........there will be a test on Monday for the slow learners.

I'm unsure what so hard to understand.

Thank you for listening wile i had to beat on some head again to pound in information.

 

[Roospike]

Thank you everyone for your replies. The new house will be about 2000 sq'. My cabin is zone 5, in the midwest and has no shelter, with plenty of wind.

I took some advice already and went to a VC dealer, had very little inventory, said it's the end of the season, but he had a Dutchwest, mid size. Now this is not a cat stove, has the everburn feature. He offered me this stove for $1,099.00, but is has a small chip out of the right side, front lip. The stove looked very well made, but the salesperson was new and didn't know anything about the stove. Kind of ticked me off, because I like to ask a lot of questions. He is a VC dealer but had non on the sales floor, but had lots of fireplaces.

I have a few questions, does 24 kt gold plate on cast iron doors last? I am going to use double wall stainless black pipe for the new install, with a probe thermometor, do I drill through the pipe and if so do I need to seal the hole? Does it pay for me to seal the joint between the stove pipe?

Were going to the cabin tomorrow, then I will measure to make sure what I get fits. Also this dealer said enamel over cast iron can chip and crack. So when I got to the store I asked the salesperson that question and she said no it's never happened. What's the concessious on that?

My biggest fear is to get a stove that will not heat the house up fast enough, my wife likes it hot.

Thanks again for all your responses.

Bill

Bill , Go to the top of this forum and type in the search box "everburn" and read the threads that come up on VC's everburn stoves.

 

[elkimmeg]

Roo here is some study material you should read up on for your Monday test

there will be an exam comming soon

(broken link removed to http://www.customfireplacesandmore.com/hearth-articles/catalytic-non-catalytic.html)

A catalytic stove uses a catalyst (catalytic converter or catalytic combustor) to reduce the temperature that smoke catches fire at. The catalyst looks like a chunk of honeycomb from a bee's nest, placed in the path of the smoke. Ordinarily, it takes a temperature of approximately 1100 degrees for smoke to catch fire. The catalyst lowers that temperature to approximately 500 - 550 degrees, allowing the smoke to safely catch fire while still inside the stove.

The catalyst then quickly gets hotter and hotter, until 15- 20 minutes after reaching 550 degrees, the temperature in the catalyst will typically be reading around 1400 to 1700 degrees, depending amount of wood in the stove, how dry it is, and the size of the catalyst. Soon, so much heat is being given off by the catalyst that you don't need a big flame to keep warm. You can then choke down the air to produce a smoldering fire, even to the point of putting the flames out, and the extra smoke produced serves as fuel for the catalyst. This greatly reduces the amount of wood needed to produce the desired heat, reduces the amount of creosote buildup in the chimney, and greatly increases the "burn time" for that load of wood.


NON-CATALYTIC:
Non-catalytic stoves use an "air injection" method which literally injects jets of pre-heated air into the fire to ignite the smoke and creosote. The draft pulls hot pre-heated air into several tubes running across the top of the fire-box. Each tube has rows of tiny holes. Heated air squirts through these holes, creating jets which fan the smoke into very active beautiful flames, which look like a gas burner squirting flames down from the top of the firebox.

PROS & CONS:
The main drawback to the non-catalytic air injection method is it will not hold a fire as long as the catalytic method. It needs the air flow to burn enough smoke to pass the EPA's clean-burning tests. The wood then burns up faster, which is less convenient and somewhat less efficient. Since the air tubes reach glowing red temperatures, they too will eventually need to be replaced.

So, the advantages of catalytic stoves are increased efficiency and longer burn time. Among the disadvantages is that learning to how to use the catalyst to get the best efficiency is a bit more tricky that a non-catalytic stove, and many manuals for catalytic stoves are not very helpful. We at Custom Fireplaces & More have written our own "Catalytic Woodstove 101" guide, which explains how to get the best out of the catalyst step by step when breaking in a new stove. We also make ourselves available to answer any questions a new stove owner may have. Eventually, the catalyst will have to be replaced. Average lifespan of a catalyst is about 6-10 years, if a person follows our operation and maintenance guidelines.

Sample question.. Given the information presented above which stove will produce a more complete burn at lower temperatures A cat stove or not cat stove
second question .. Without a cat combustor please explain how smoke is burnt when stove fire box temp are below 1000 degrees?

 

[Roospike]

Sample question.. Given the information presented above which stove will produce a more complete burn at lower temperatures A cat stove or not cat stove

Its hard to tell with out knowing what brand and model of stoves are being tested.

second question .. Without a cat combustor please explain how smoke is burnt when stove fire box temp are below 1000 degrees?

#1 the inside of a fire box and the outside of the stove are going to be different temps.

My Summit will light off the secondary burn when the outside of the stove is 275° so i would say that the secondary burn chamber is over 1000° being preheated in the secondary combustion chamber.

Elk, You claim you can engage the cat at 380° on your VC and normal cat light off is listed as 500°-600°


Whats the difference in performance ? .................

When the noncat stove is new it has its tested emissions level at XXX number grams per hour .........8 years down the road it has right about the same XXX number of grams per hour of emissions.

When the cat stove is new it has its tested emissions level at XXX number grams per hour .........3-5 years down the road the cat combuster looses its effect of emissions level and is around 50% dirtier then it was when new ... In turn tho the cat stove might of been a cleaner burning stove when new its lost its clean burning just after a few years and is half as clean as it was when new and you then have to buy and replace the cat combuster.

Overall in a 8 year time span the NONCAT stove is going to be the cleaner burning stove.



SCORE: A+

 

[Gunner]

OK elker Question # 3.

When I'm turn my oven on self clean mode and it's 600* inside...why is it only warm to the touch on the outside? :lol:

 

[Todd]

Sample question.. Given the information presented above which stove will produce a more complete burn at lower temperatures A cat stove or not cat stove

Its hard to tell with out knowing what brand and model of stoves are being tested.

second question .. Without a cat combustor please explain how smoke is burnt when stove fire box temp are below 1000 degrees?

#1 the inside of a fire box and the outside of the stove are going to be different temps.

My Summit will light off the secondary burn when the outside of the stove is 275° so i would say that the secondary burn chamber is over 1000° being preheated in the secondary combustion chamber.

Elk, You claim you can engage the cat at 380° on your VC and normal cat light off is listed as 500°-600°


Whats the difference in performance ? .................

When the noncat stove is new it has its tested emissions level at XXX number grams per hour .........8 years down the road it has right about the same XXX number of grams per hour of emissions.

When the cat stove is new it has its tested emissions level at XXX number grams per hour .........3-5 years down the road the cat combuster looses its effect of emissions level and is around 50% dirtier then it was when new ... In turn tho the cat stove might of been a cleaner burning stove when new its lost its clean burning just after a few years and is half as clean as it was when new and you then have to buy and replace the cat combuster.

Overall in a 8 year time span the NONCAT stove is going to be the cleaner burning stove.



SCORE: A+

Ok, so if my stove is rated at 1.3 gph, after 3-5 years it will be 50% dirtier or 1.95 gph. Wow! That's a dirty stove! We can all argue til were blue in the face. Either type of stove will do the job for this guy.

 

[elkimmeg]

OK elker Question # 3.

When I'm turn my oven on self clean mode and it's 600* inside...why is it only warm to the touch on the outside? :lol:

most ovens are suroundded with ceramic blanket insulation it is suposed to hold heat in and prevent it from escaping or transmitting to the surface

Elk, You claim you can engage the cat at 380° on your VC and normal cat light off is listed as 500°-600°

I'm using the aftermarker replacement combustors bought from stovecombustor.com when Goose and I did the plant tour I asked the head engineer why they didnot use these
combustors with the lower ignition point. he admitted the combustors lit of lower but when awarding the contract to the suppliers they did not offer them at a price agreeable to CFM
the OEM combustors light off when internal fire box temps reach 500 to 550 not surface temps, Inside firebox temps run many times hotter than surface temps You may visit stove combustor.com web site and confirm the lower ignition temps

second question .. Without a cat combustor please explain how smoke is burnt when stove fire box temp are below 1000 degrees?

You did not answer the question when internal fire box temps are below 1000 degrees no seconfdary combustion of smoke can occure with out the aid of a catylist

When the noncat stove is new it has its tested emissions level at XXX number grams per hour .........8 years down the road it has right about the same XXX number of grams per hour of emissions.

this is not true fly ash deposits will collect in the air pasages and retard effeciency in any stove. Unless one takes the time and effort to remove grates plates bricks and completely
clean out their stoves. Alll stoves I have rebuitl not one was cleaned all had ash and fly ash deposits restricting air flow

When the cat stove is new it has its tested emissions level at XXX number grams per hour .........3-5 years down the road the cat combuster looses its effect of emissions level and is around 50% dirtier then it was when new

Do you have a source to back up the info about the 50% claim? Did you know that a solution of vinagar water boiled will restore a clogged combustor back to just about 100% providing the combustor has no structual damage. Again like the non cat stove without proper maintance and cleaning all stoves suffer from preformance de-gradation A smart opperator should be able to tell when something is admiss and pull the cat combustor out and clean it.
Just like chimney caps. Stoves are not turn key start them up and forget them. I check my flues atleast once a month or more and while doing my mid season cleaning the cats are removed and cleaned. Mike form ESW has had his cat stove working 13 years without a replacement. Cars last longer than their warranty period. It is a good bet my combustors will also last past warrenty. I hope my new front load washer makes it well past the one year warranty. Not many people replace they washer every year because the warranty expires. I hope you HP computers last past 90 days beyond the warranty. I have the original cat I replaced from the 20 yearold Intrepid II on the casing is 1987 It was structually intact I boiled it cleaned it up and it worked quite well.

I am willing to bet my 20 year old Intrepid II burns cleaner than a brand new PE ETB summit. We all want to put these cats out to pasture, but 20 year old technology is wipping the a**
of many new stoves in effeciency and emmissions Why?

 

[Roospike]

Ok, so if my stove is rated at 1.3 gph, after 3-5 years it will be 50% dirtier or 1.95 gph. Wow! That's a dirty stove! We can all argue til were blue in the face. Either type of stove will do the job for this guy.

I offer Bill some information on what i thought was a good stove size for him. I didn't ask for the clean / dirty stove debate.

As for 50% of a combuster efficency , if a non EPA stove is putting out 50 GPH and the cat take it down to 2 GPH then 50% of its efficiency would bring it to 24 GPH, correct ?

If your figures were true then a cat combuster only doing 2% of its job would put it under 3 GPH.......... so where does the other 45 GPH come in ? where did they go?
That last 2% cant be burning 45 GPH .

Again, if your firures are true Todd then without the cat combuster your stove would be only 3 grams per hour ! So why even have a cat combuster if it can get less then EPA standard.
Why isnt PRE EPA stoves only putting out 3 GPH if the secondary burn is only responsible for 3 GPH ? again , what happened to the other 45 grams per hour?
.............hummmmmmmm

 

[elkimmeg]

Roo I don't know where you get your logic but the worst gph that passes EPA regs is like 7.5
the cat bombustors stoves are designed to channel smoke over the hot coals called horrizontal burning
Even before the smoke makes into the secondary combustion chamber part of it gets burned off passing threw the hot coal bed
The secondary air is channeled around the fire box jacket and that too is superheated A summilar method of introducing air to burn tubes it is pre heated. The pre heated smoke and pre heated air arrives in the secondary combustion chamber where it passes threw a hot cat combustor as it passed threw it burns off the particulates generatiog more heat from smoke combustion. At that point the particulates that are left enter the chimney The Epa Labs then setup filters to remove the particulates and measures what accumulates on the filters.

Just like your stove and all EPA stoves a good vollume of smoke is burned off before secondary combustion in tubes bafflets or burn chambers occures
50 GPH is never being subjected to final burning. Yes initial startup with the danper open more than 7.5 gph exits all stoves,
Older Non EPA stoves used bafflets to slow the smoke path exit. The longer the smoke stayed in a hot stove the more of it was burned

Your math is ok in your percentages But where did you get the 50 gph to begin with.

Getting bck to mike's original question an intrepid cat s or cat Dutch west stove was recomended, because smaller fire box stoves equiped with cat combustors burn longer and produce a longer productive heat range.
It just so happens they burn cleaner. A fire box size of 1.25 cu ft usually will burn up its load in less than 3 or 4 hours Slow down that burning process and extract more BTUs out of secondary burning, increases the productive lenght of the burn. The cat combustor does this best. VC had two identical stoves in this range a non cat Intrepid and a cat intrepid. For years the non cat Intrepid could not compete with its cat brother. VC dropped the non cat Intrepid line. Point being the manufacturer realized the cat model out preformed the non cat stove in the small fire box range. I still say the Intrepid II is the finest area wood stove in its size range That's my final answer and I sticking with it

Not lost is for days the question was asked why some stove models did not burn cleaner. no explanation were rendered but a side tract trying to limit the importance of cleaner burning by arguing the insignificance of a couple grams. But no technological explanation was ever given just a bunch of side stepping. you asked me technical question about cat combustor light off temps I supplied the technical data you expounded floating 304 ss fire boxes but never addressed the primary question. If ETB is soo good then how can 20 year old stoves burn cleaner or Let me re word it stoves tested 20 years ago tested cleaner than EBt stoves of today. So what is the hype about EBT if that technology can not burn cleaner that 20 year old technology.
Many other stoves modern stoves burn cleaner some that are 3x cheaper burn 2x cleaner I'll make it easy for you to answer for over a yera you extoled the superiority of the PE stove and you believed your own a assertions, When someone pointed out these stoves may not have measured up in cleaner burning you had no answer. I mean you are being blowaway by Englander What is England doing that PE should be? Why can't EBT be fine tuned or why hasn't PE done this? Also BlazeKing has done this in a larger firebox. Agin you also forget EBT is only found in the Summit line, that the rest of the manufactures line has not been enhanced. Why is this? nyou know there is nothing wrong with admitting one does not have the answer.
that's why PE engineering should come front center and address the issue just as Englander has and Vc has. I also suspect efforts to produce cleaner burning stoves inhibits draft and makes them more draft sensitive. Thus not as user friendly. Having a .7GPH stove is useless if common people can't learn how to opperate it. I thgink we agree there.
the other problem you have is comming to grips with, the fact all cat stoves out preform your EBT stove. If youattack another one's efforts to build the cleanest stove ever tested By the EPA you better start preparing to explain why yours burns far dirtier You lob a gernade in my direction better expect one will return. btw you Summit insert owners ther is also anothe s insert bigger and badder made by Buck, the 91 so you have more than Blaze king to worry about

 

[Todd]

Ok, so if my stove is rated at 1.3 gph, after 3-5 years it will be 50% dirtier or 1.95 gph. Wow! That's a dirty stove! We can all argue til were blue in the face. Either type of stove will do the job for this guy.

I offer Bill some information on what i thought was a good stove size for him. I didn't ask for the clean / dirty stove debate.

As for 50% of a combuster efficency , if a non EPA stove is putting out 50 GPH and the cat take it down to 2 GPH then 50% of its efficiency would bring it to 24 GPH, correct ?

If your figures were true then a cat combuster only doing 2% of its job would put it under 3 GPH.......... so where does the other 45 GPH come in ? where did they go?
That last 2% cant be burning 45 GPH .

Again, if your firures are true Todd then without the cat combuster your stove would be only 3 grams per hour ! So why even have a cat combuster if it can get less then EPA standard.
Why isnt PRE EPA stoves only putting out 3 GPH if the secondary burn is only responsible for 3 GPH ? again , what happened to the other 45 grams per hour?
.............hummmmmmmm

There is alot more to it than that. My Woodstock stove isn't a pre epa smoke beltching design where you just stick a cat into clean up emissions. It also has a baffle and incoming air creating an S pattern with secondary combustion flames before smoke and gas reaches the cat combustor. I just added 50% to the gph because you said the stove will be half as clean as when it was new. Anyway, where did you find this 50% figure? I didn't want to get into a cat vs non cat or clean/dirty stove debate either. Did you ever burn a cat stove? Why are you always dissing the cats? Did you have a bad experience with one?

Sorry to Bill that this thread went another way. If I were you I would think about buying a stove that would heat your future home, and sizing it up that way. You can always build smaller fires or open a window if it gets too hot. Go by the looks you like best, whether its cat or non cat, both will do the job.

 

[Gunner]

Elk, how many times do we need to go round and round over 2 gph. You must be having a hard time understand my posts as I do yours.

I have already admitted that the Summit is not the cleanest burning stove out there, however it more than satisfies the EPA's requirements.

I cannot answer your question as to why it is not the cleanest burning...I don't know and frankly don't really care, nor do I think PE needs to come to hearthnet and explain itself for 2gph :lol:

The EBT is not in the vista and spectrum and doesn't need to be...they are slightly cleaner than the summit already.

Are you happy yet?

Edit: Please read the whole post from the top slowly and completely

 

[keyman512us]

To quote El:

I admit my $500 used stove is not the best I admit there are better stoves out there than My free IntrepidII I admit there and better chainsaws than my one year old $.67 Huskey 357xp. Some may admit I try my danmest to get thes items working right and to get the most out of them

Dude don't be so rough...(even if it is an attempt to be sarcastic)...lol
Just as the line goes "One man's trash.." Folks who burn wood are "masters of breathing life back into things long thought dead"...lol
Those that are critical off this basic trait...should simply just go turn up the thermostat...lol

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

who realy cares about cat vs non cat?? its two ways to acomplish the same thing. WHo cares about .8 grams a hour vs 1.8? my god people, just buy a stove that is the correct size for the space and enjoy it! Evey one is going to think there system is better. IF there was a clear winner in the non cat vs cat debabte we would all own one type of stove!
Different strokes for differnt folks. Its unbelievable how some people defend there system to the death. They both exist for a reason, and thats because they both have a place in the market.

 

[Gunner]

WHo cares about .8 grams a hour vs 1.8? my god people

ELK DOES....I sure as heck don't, he's been bringing it up now for 2 days on just about every thread.

I have already admitted defeat...but he is not happy, he want's PE to answer for there sins :snake:

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

i thought elk was going to jump the VC ship after they said that glowing red stoves are within normal operation procedures....

the letter

November 3, 2006
Subject: Glowing Rear Components

I am writing this letter in response to reports that parts of the rear cast assemblies on the Resolute Acclaim and some of our Everburn Woodstoves are glowing red. The hot flue gases do hit the sides here while turning to go vertical in the rear lower right and rear lower left of the stoves. On a large load of wood it is normal for these areas to glow while the fire is at its peak (typically one or two hours during a burn cycle) and dull “blood red” glowing may extend upward toward the base of the flue collar. These areas have been reinforced to deal with the excess temperatures that may occur here. The glowing does not constitute any safety or operational issue.

If further questions arise, please contact me.

Sincerely yours,
CFM Corporation
John Davidson
Senior Technical Advisor

 

[begreen]

Best to take that debate to another thread and not hijack this one. The point here is to help a new owner decide on a new stove. Not to split grams to death.

Start another thread for the endless cat vs non-cat vs steel vs cast vs whatever noise.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

agreed. this thread was tittled confused. And i think he or she will be more confused.

 

[Gunner]

MSG didn't you hear.... VC "STEPPED UP TO THE PLATE" and resolved all everburn problems with there 1 post.

Vermont Casting/DutchWest Stoves has thousands of Everburn units in the field with very few warranty issues. It does sound like your stove is burning hot. I would suggest conducting the “dollar bill” test on the door and ash door gaskets. Pinch a dollar bill between the door and the gasket, close the door completely and pull the dollar bill out. The dollar bill should resist being pulled out but come out without tearing. Try this every few inches all the way around each of the doors. If you find lose gasket seals the door should be adjusted. You can do this by adjusting the handle pawl or the hinge pins or both. If you are not comfortable adjusting the doors call your dealer and have him/her adjust the doors. It is very unlikely that the gasketed joint assembly found on Everburn units is leaking. Vermont Castings leak test 100% of their stoves at final assemble. Another place to look would be the primary flap. Open both doors and reach a finger up between the primary air manifold and the inside of the front of the stove. Open and close the primary air lever. You will feel the flap opening and closing. When the flap is closed it should lie flat on the manifold with no gaps. It is possible for a piece of debris to keep it from closing completely. Don’t hesitate to call the customer service number for help. Vermont Castings is very concerned about satisfaction of their customers.

Oh sorry...there is still this little issue that was left out :roll:

November 3, 2006
Subject: Glowing Rear Components

I am writing this letter in response to reports that parts of the rear cast assemblies on the Resolute Acclaim and some of our Everburn Woodstoves are glowing red. The hot flue gases do hit the sides here while turning to go vertical in the rear lower right and rear lower left of the stoves. On a large load of wood it is normal for these areas to glow while the fire is at its peak (typically one or two hours during a burn cycle) and dull “blood red” glowing may extend upward toward the base of the flue collar. These areas have been reinforced to deal with the excess temperatures that may occur here. The glowing does not constitute any safety or operational issue.

If further questions arise, please contact me.

Sincerely yours,
CFM Corporation
John Davidson
Senior Technical Advisor

 

[Gunner]

this thread has gone alittle off topic hasn't it....sorry bill

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

it happens. But we can get it back on topic real easy.
All the brands mentioned are top notch. Just pick one YOU like and go with it. Make sure its sized correctly.

 

[thechimneysweep]

Wading back upstream against heavy currents:

The fireboxes in Pacific Energy's Super Series stoves measure 18" deep x 16" wide x 12" tall, or 2 cubic feet. The baffle brackets take up a tiny bit of space, which is probably why PE says 1.97 cu.ft. This is the usable firebox size, excluding the space taken up by the secondary burn chamber.