Clayton 1600 Firing Issues

[MRD1985]

As far as wood goes, check Facebook marketplace. I found all of what I have pretty much on there other than the few cords I have of stuff I cut at home, all free with the exception of a couple loads (I paid 100$/cord or less for about 4.5 cords). I have about 10.5-11 cords on hand.

 

[Woodenator]

As far as wood goes, check Facebook marketplace. I found all of what I have pretty much on there other than the few cords I have of stuff I cut at home, all free with the exception of a couple loads (I paid 100$/cord or less for about 4.5 cords). I have about 10.5-11 cords on hand.

I have been checking Facebook market place everyday. Nothing around me, there was one post the other day and I responded soon as it was listed. The guy said he would let me know the next day to come get it. We'll the next day came and the listing was marked as gone. If I go 30+ miles away there is green wood but I have to go over a mountain and I don't trust my suv with a loaded trailer coming down. I don't have trailer brakes installed. I can fit 64cuft at a time in my trailer. I can only put 2,000lbs onto my trailer but I don't think my chevy envoy will pull that,I have a Karavan pro 5.5x9. The gas cost would be astronomical pulling that kinda weight for 30 miles up a mountain. 100$ a cords, jees I would just buy all my wood for that.

 

[MRD1985]

I have been checking Facebook market place everyday. Nothing around me, there was one post the other day and I responded soon as it was listed. The guy said he would let me know the next day to come get it. We'll the next day came and the listing was marked as gone. If I go 30+ miles away there is green wood but I have to go over a mountain and I don't trust my suv with a loaded trailer coming down. I don't have trailer brakes installed. I can fit 64cuft at a time in my trailer. I can only put 2,000lbs onto my trailer but I don't think my chevy envoy will pull that,I have a Karavan pro 5.5x9. The gas cost would be astronomical pulling that kinda weight for 30 miles up a mountain. 100$ a cords, jees I would just buy all my wood for that.

This was all fairly green wood in log length that I had to process myself, which is why it was probably cheap. I have an F350 so I was able to go and cut things myself and haul it home to process it. I probably got at least 4 cords for just cost of fuel for my truck and the chainsaw plus my time

 

[Woodenator]

This was all fairly green wood in log length that I had to process myself, which is why it was probably cheap. I have an F350 so I was able to go and cut things myself and haul it home to process it. I probably got at least 4 cords for just cost of fuel for my truck and the chainsaw plus my time

I have everything to process the wood. I Just don't wanna chance loosing brakes. Now if it's relatively close to me and I can make multiple trips I'm fine with that.

 

[brenndatomu]

I have everything to process the wood. I Just don't wanna chance loosing brakes. Now if it's relatively close to me and I can make multiple trips I'm fine with that.

Sounds like its time for a trailer (or brake) upgrade...if you watch on FBMP you can find some killer deals on trailers...or depending on your trailer, you can add brakes... https://www.etrailer.com/faq-adding-electric-drum-brakes.aspx#assembly

 

[Woodenator]

Sounds like its time for a trailer (or brake) upgrade...if you watch on FBMP you can find some killer deals on trailers...or depending on your trailer, you can add brakes... https://www.etrailer.com/faq-adding-electric-drum-brakes.aspx#assembly

I got a Karavan 5.5x9 Pro trailer 2 years ago. It's a good trailer just never got brakes on it yet, I use the heck out of it. I got material to build in the sides but it has been raining here off and on this week so I plan on doing it over the weekend. Trailer brakes was a spring project that was in order but had multiple things going on more important and time sensetive, so I just never got around to it. Next spring without a dout brakes will be put on. I'm not to worried about it this year and I refuse to overload it. People don't understand how heavy wood really is and it's easy to overload a truck or trailer to a point that it becomes dangerous.

 

[Woodenator]

I do however want to remove the baro damper. I understand I could cover it with aluminum foil but i just want to take it out and put a MPD in to try. I don't really have room to run both with such a short piece of horizontal pipe. I think that will help with the burn, well that and trying to come by better quality wood. My wood last year wasn't bad at all but I know some had more moisture than 20% but it wasn't much more and it wasn't alot of it. The baro did cool down the flue going to the chimney which in return caused cresote to build up around it and in the pipe running towards the chimney. I tried to run it hotter to compensate but I feel like an MPD will allow me to turn down the draft according to whatever I want on my manometer and not have to burn as hot saving some wood and keeping the flue temp hotter at the same time.

 

[brenndatomu]

A MPD still cools the flue, that's why the draft drops...but what you are going to find is that they can be tricky to set...especially with non premium wood...the fire will die down, or pick up, some time after your last adjustment, and that can be dangerous...fill the house with co...that's why I suggest leaving the baro, you'll end up going back to it. And like I said, a MPD can only be used on a manual draft furnace...if it has any sort of auto controls, you can't do it.

 

[sloeffle]

me to turn down the draft according to whatever I want on my manometer

This is the purpose of a baro. You set it whatever draft speed you want and let it do it's thing. Myself, and others on this forum have had baro's on our wood furnaces for years and we've never had creosote problems.

You are trying to band aid wet wood problems. We've all been there and it's miserable. For some reason, I get one tote ( 1/3 cord ) a year of wet wood ever year and I'll fight with it for a few months and then I'm back to the races with dry wood that has been split and in totes for at least 9 months. Not to beat a dead horse, but you'll never get ahead of this problem if you don't get your wood situation figured out. I would maybe try and scrounge up as much wood as you can, and maybe try and burn half as much as you'd like so you have dry wood for next winter. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

[Woodenator]

A MPD still cools the flue, that's why the draft drops...but what you are going to find is that they can be tricky to set...especially with non premium wood...the fire will die down, or pick up, some time after your last adjustment, and that can be dangerous...fill the house with co...that's why I suggest leaving the baro, you'll end up going back to it. And like I said, a MPD can only be used on a manual draft furnace...if it has any sort of auto controls, you can't do it.

An MPD doesn't close off the flue completely so how would it fill the house with Co??? Not being smart I honestly want to know so I can avoid it. My furnace is indeed a manual furnace, there is no electronics whatsoever except for the blower fans. Air input is adjusted thru manual spin intakes.

 

[Woodenator]

This is the purpose of a baro. You set it whatever draft speed you want and let it do it's thing. Myself, and others on this forum have had baro's on our wood furnaces for years and we've never had creosote problems.

You are trying to band aid wet wood problems. We've all been there and it's miserable. For some reason, I get one tote ( 1/3 cord ) a year of wet wood ever year and I'll fight with it for a few months and then I'm back to the races with dry wood that has been split and in totes for at least 9 months. Not to beat a dead horse, but you'll never get ahead of this problem if you don't get your wood situation figured out. I would maybe try and scrounge up as much wood as you can, and maybe try and burn half as much as you'd like so you have dry wood for next winter. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

I have a place to cut wood finally, there are a ton of logs the landowner cut almost 2 years ago. There stacked up off the ground too bit that doesn't mean there dry either. I recall seeing a bunch of dead standing maple there too. I test all my wood before it get put in the stove. I did set a max of 25% last year cause I had to. I have a full cord of black locust, maple and white oak thats 15-16%. I just hope I can go there and cut standing dead that already dry.

 

[JRHAWK9]

This is the purpose of a baro. You set it whatever draft speed you want and let it do it's thing. Myself, and others on this forum have had baro's on our wood furnaces for years and we've never had creosote problems.

yep, a MPD (I call it a key damper) will not compensate for ANY changes in the burn or environmental factors. No way would I want to run my furnace on a manual key damper only.

An MPD doesn't close off the flue completely so how would it fill the house with Co??? Not being smart I honestly want to know so I can avoid it. My furnace is indeed a manual furnace, there is no electronics whatsoever except for the blower fans. Air input is adjusted thru manual spin intakes.

If you happen to adjust/set it at a time where the flue temps are high and with higher winds (max draft scenario). Then when the fire dies down and winds calm down (low draft scenario), you could very well have the damper set so it's closed too much resulting in hardly any draft at all causing flue gasses to reverse at times.

One set position will not be correct through the entirety of a burn. I'm guessing it's even more true on an old furnace like you have, where your flue temps are MUCH higher, and therefore have a much larger range of draft pull throughout a burn.

 

[brenndatomu]

I have a place to cut wood finally, there are a ton of logs the landowner cut almost 2 years ago. There stacked up off the ground too bit that doesn't mean there dry either. I recall seeing a bunch of dead standing maple there too. I test all my wood before it get put in the stove. I did set a max of 25% last year cause I had to. I have a full cord of black locust, maple and white oak thats 15-16%. I just hope I can go there and cut standing dead that already dry.

You split and test every piece?
If you aren't splitting right before testing (ideally on a room temp piece) then testing on the middle of the fresh face(s) then you reading is meaningless...other than the real internal MC will be much higher.

If you happen to adjust/set it at a time where the flue temps are high and with higher winds (max draft scenario). Then when the fire dies down and winds calm down (low draft scenario), you could very well have the damper set so it's closed too much resulting in hardly any draft at all causing flue gasses to reverse at times.

One set position will not be correct through the entirety of a burn. I'm guessing it's even more true on an old furnace like you have, where your flue temps are MUCH higher, and therefore have a much larger range of draft pull throughout a burn.

This ^ ^ ^.
That's why the baro door is almost always moving, its reacting to the changing conditions (often wind related)
Furnaces are just not a good candidate for MPD for several reasons, especially because most of them have some auto draft controls, for the reasons listed above, and, because furnaces are usually in the basement, so out of sight out of mind, and the chimney is taller, so subject to more severe swings in chimney draft...which also means its easier to get the flue too cold by the time it gets to the top, instant creosote factory.
I dont recall, maybe you said, but what type of chimney do you have (masonry, (lined?) or double wall stainless insulated pipe?) Also, what size and height?

 

[brenndatomu]

There stacked up off the ground too bit that doesn't mean there dry either.

Correct, logs dry almost none...the drying occurs once cut, split, stacked...espcially if top covered with the sides open in a breezy spot, sunny is good too.

 

[sloeffle]

I have a place to cut wood finally, there are a ton of logs the landowner cut almost 2 years ago. There stacked up off the ground too bit that doesn't mean there dry either. I recall seeing a bunch of dead standing maple there too. I test all my wood before it get put in the stove. I did set a max of 25% last year cause I had to. I have a full cord of black locust, maple and white oak thats 15-16%. I just hope I can go there and cut standing dead that already dry.

I've cut and burned standing dead elm within the same month. I would get your wood CSS ( cut, split, and stacked ) as soon as you can. The prime time months for drying wood are about behind us.

There have been a few threads on this site about building solar kilns. Might be something to look into if you can't get a decent amount of wood CSS in the next month or so.

 

[Woodenator]

You split and test every piece?
If you aren't splitting right before testing (ideally on a room temp piece) then testing on the middle of the fresh face(s) then you reading is meaningless...other than the real internal MC will be much higher.

This ^ ^ ^.
That's why the baro door is almost always moving, its reacting to the changing conditions (often wind related)
Furnaces are just not a good candidate for MPD for several reasons, especially because most of them have some auto draft controls, for the reasons listed above, and, because furnaces are usually in the basement, so out of sight out of mind, and the chimney is taller, so subject to more severe swings in chimney draft...which also means its easier to get the flue too cold by the time it gets to the top, instant creosote factory.
I dont recall, maybe you said, but what type of chimney do you have (masonry, (lined?) or double wall stainless insulated pipe?) Also, what size and height?

Yes last year I split and tested every round immediately after splitting, i had to. Helped me cull out too wet of wood since towards the stumps usually have more moisture. I kept most wood less than 25%, that's why I have an cord extra from last year cause it was too wet then. Yes I stated before but my furnace is in my basement flue goes out the wall and into a 6" stainless steel double wall chimney pipe that's 25ft tall...

 

[Woodenator]

yep, a MPD (I call it a key damper) will not compensate for ANY changes in the burn or environmental factors. No way would I want to run my furnace on a manual key damper only.


If you happen to adjust/set it at a time where the flue temps are high and with higher winds (max draft scenario). Then when the fire dies down and winds calm down (low draft scenario), you could very well have the damper set so it's closed too much resulting in hardly any draft at all causing flue gasses to reverse at times.

One set position will not be correct through the entirety of a burn. I'm guessing it's even more true on an old furnace like you have, where your flue temps are MUCH higher, and therefore have a much larger range of draft pull throughout a burn.

Then how do I keep it from running away on me? I know my wood wasn't that wet, most was 20% and under. Set the baro even lighter? I already have it set between .04-.06wc. Plus I have black glass built in my baro and up the flu. I don't really have a preference one way or the other, I just want it set up so I can trust the darn thing and have a decent burn time. I don't like this furnace but I'm stuck with it till I can get a vaporfire 100, there suppose to be nice!

 

[salecker]

Find dry wood...
Look for a truss manufacturing plant in your area, they always have piles of kiln dried scraps from the cuts on trusses. Small but dry which you can mix with subpar wood to help

 

[blades]

Point blank that particular furnace and its preceding units are over firing monsters. It is a good coal furnace , lousy with wood. Used one for one season which was one season too much. Pulled and sold it ( almost gave it away. ) Never looked back.

 

[brenndatomu]

Get to thinking about it, I have buddy that has one of those...he seems to get along with it ok...his house is a lil bigger, so maybe the fact that he can run it a lil harder makes the difference...that and he has very dry wood. I keep trying to get him to go to a Kuuma, he has the money, but tight with it...they are pretty busy with young kids though, so I suppose if its working for them, screw it, good enough!

 

[Woodenator]

Point blank that particular furnace and its preceding units are over firing monsters. It is a good coal furnace , lousy with wood. Used one for one season which was one season too much. Pulled and sold it ( almost gave it away. ) Never looked back.

Well I don't have any other option, I have to use it for at least 2-3 more years unless I come by a decent used furnace.

 

[Woodenator]

I just got permission to cut on a 500 acre lot. Farmer said he pushed a ton of dead ash trees over with his dozer and tractor. He also gave me permission to drive right up to it. He also said there is enough firewood there to last a person for years. I am chewing the bit to go cut. He also said there's dead standing ash aswell, he just said to be careful not to kill myself. I don't like cutting anything bigger than 16"18" across its just to much for me to handle. But fellas Standing dead ash He said there is alot of it I should be able to get it split and stacked to burn this year Obviously I'll be testing each piece before I put it in this year pile. I just hope it's as good as he says.

 

[Woodenator]

Point blank that particular furnace and its preceding units are over firing monsters. It is a good coal furnace , lousy with wood. Used one for one season which was one season too much. Pulled and sold it ( almost gave it away. ) Never looked back.

I had the opposite experience with it. Makes a lousy coal furnace. Works good with wood just tries to run away on me. I think I will be able to get that under control hopefully. Just shows how different every person's experiences can be... I'll upgrade but it's gunna take awhile.

 

[brenndatomu]

I just got permission to cut on a 500 acre lot. Farmer said he pushed a ton of dead ash trees over with his dozer and tractor. He also gave me permission to drive right up to it. He also said there is enough firewood there to last a person for years. I am chewing the bit to go cut. He also said there's dead standing ash aswell, he just said to be careful not to kill myself. I don't like cutting anything bigger than 16"18" across its just to much for me to handle. But fellas Standing dead ash He said there is alot of it I should be able to get it split and stacked to burn this year Obviously I'll be testing each piece before I put it in this year pile. I just hope it's as good as he says.

Score!
The top half of dead ash trees is often ready to burn, especially if it spent some time dead standing and the wood hasn't laid with direct ground contact too long. Even the trunk wood can dry out pretty quickly if cut/split/stacked in a breezy spot...ash just readily gives up its moisture, along with being a wood with a lower moisture content to begin with, just makes a real fine option for people in your situation.
I'd be wearing a hard hat, and always be scanning the canopy for widowmakers...dead standing ash drops a lot of them!
Good idea to not go alone also.

Works good with wood just tries to run away on me. I think I will be able to get that under control hopefully. Just shows how different every person's experiences can be...

Its the chimney...it is the engine that makes the furnace work...and every chimney/house is a lil different.
As far as the runaway issue...make sure that you don't load the furnace up with too many small splits...that will make 'em run hot.
A mixture of big n small splits is best, if you can get the wood to dry in time being split larger...

 

[Woodenator]

Score!
The top half of dead ash trees is often ready to burn, especially if it spent some time dead standing and the wood hasn't laid with direct ground contact too long. Even the trunk wood can dry out pretty quickly if cut/split/stacked in a breezy spot...ash just readily gives up its moisture, along with being a wood with a lower moisture content to begin with, just makes a real fine option for people in your situation.
I'd be wearing a hard hat, and always be scanning the canopy for widowmakers...dead standing ash drops a lot of them!
Good idea to not go alone also.

Its the chimney...it is the engine that makes the furnace work...and every chimney/house is a lil different.

Yes I feel like I might actually get ahead this year and can start on next year's wood also. I usually have to cut firewood alone however my uncle might be there aswell. I'll take all the dead fallen ash first, then take all the dead standing for this year's wood. The bunch of logs I'll get cut up and stacked for next year's burning season. I wanna try and go tomorrow.