Bub381 said:I don't have hot fires hardly at all.
And therein lies the problem.
Bub381 said:I don't have hot fires hardly at all.
Should not be anything in the chimney to burn if you are doing it right, that's why you should not be afraid to get the flue hot.RobH said:Perhaps it's normal to get the dry, grainy/flaky stuff on the cap then. Maybe my problem is that I overfired and had too much flame going up the chimney. How often is normal to have to clean the cap?
OK, it will be like a new stove when you get some better wood, you will have more control over the fire.Bub381 said:Wood wasn't seasoned long enough Spark.I'm learning though.
Bub381 said:I have a moisture meter.I stay under 25%.I did throw maybe a couple arm loads of 30% in.My biggest problem was leaving so many 6" to 8" maple unsplit.I used to have a Vigilant so this wood was prepared for that stove.Will split all over 4" from now on.
Bub381 said:To keep from overheating the house.I will try the quick fire and i do leave a good deep bed of coals.It's just the stove room that gets hot.
Bub381 said:Doing it from 2 directions.Big box fans.We have them on low,should we crank them up?
well saidHogwildz said:300 is too low to burn at and that is a big part of your problem if not the problem. Add less than desired wet wood and you your answer lies within those two.
Either burn smaller hotter fires for shorter durations, get a smaller stove, try and circulate the air better in the house, or open a window.
Your stove is either oversized for your space, or the floorplan of your home is on that does not have a good convection loop going on.
A cat stove may allow you to burn that low. But def start by trying to move the air around your home better for starters.
IMO no matter how dry your wood is, at that low a temp your going to get buildup, And that runny stuff is the bad stuff.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.