Chains dulling VERY quickly

[awfarmington]

Got my chains back today. Looked at teeth, although not sure why, I don't know what I'm looking for lol.

Rather than start a whole new thread, I thought it would be better to ask quickly here. I picked up a load of seasoned wood today thinking it would get us started while the wood we cut this summer dried further. It is $55 a rick and nearly all oak. The problem is, even tho it's been seasoned a year, it's still at 25% to 35% moisture. They have it stacked in the woods with no sun, and it's oak so I guess that's typical that it's not dry yet. Question is, should I go back and get more since it is oak and see if I can get it dry this season yet? Or pass? Currently we have almost all maple, if that matters.

 

[TreePointer]

Oak takes TWO years to season fully under best conditions.

 

[Danno77]

what he said, and usually longer.

BUT, i will say the following. Burn the best wood you can burn. If the best wood you can burn stinks, you are throwing away free heat and you'll need to pay close attention to chimney and stove, but it CAN be done. Sometimes what you have just HAS to work, just be smart about it.

As for going back for more, if you think the price is good and the wood looks nice and you have space and time for it to dry, then go for it. If you are looking for wood to burn this year and have another option at a similar price (even if it's not oak), then I'd do that instead.

as for what to look for on the chain, just look for discolored metal. I looked for a picture of a burnt chain, but this is all I could find to give an idea of what overheated metal looks like:

Know that some discoloration is actually ok, because these are tempered to take high temps, but sometimes that just gets exceeded by the dude doing the sharpening.

I know this is a bad picture, but the point is that the top of this tooth is a nice even color. That's what you want...

 

[Frank625]

Tmonster, can those chains also be found online (like amazon or ebay)?

Highanddryinco... Yes, we have! The tree base is on the ground and almost always hits the ground when I finally get through. How does one avoid that with a tree too heavy to move? I'm a beginner this year, hopefully I can avoid the same mistakes next year.

That is the reason your chains dull so fast.. The saw can never go into the dirt or grass. That instantly makes your chain dull. Cut halfway through and roll the log over or get a timber jack (they have a long handle for leverage) that lifts the trunk off the ground and keeps it propped up while you cut.

Timber Jack

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612314_200612314

 

[Danno77]

+1 to a timberjack...
attempting to attatch my youtube video.

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[Frank625]

When you go to get a saw go to a dealer. I like the Stihl MS250 with an 18" bar, it's a good saw and very versatile. Stihl chains are very good quality as well. Stihl came out with a super fast and easy filing sharpening system that keeps the dogs at the right height too. It's pricey at $40 but it's like putting a new chain on and it can be used in the field. Keep your old saw too if it runs good. Take your time it takes a couple years to get organized and efficient but the savings will come and the heat will be far superior to any traditional oil, gas or electric heating system.

As far as you wood goes, 25% will get you by. Check it on a freshly split piece along the grain of the wood to be sure you are performing the test properly.

Stihl 2 in 1 filing Guide

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/2in1file/

 

[Jags]

I wanna see the guy that can cut 9 cords on a single sharpening. If I get more than one cord out of a chain before I feel the need to swap - I am feeling pretty lucky.

 

[Danno77]

I wanna see the guy that can cut 9 cords on a single sharpening. If I get more than one cord out of a chain before I feel the need to swap - I am feeling pretty lucky.

Dry pine with a huge bar and just making a fine dust at the end. would take forever to do. I call bunk on this being a reasonable thing at all.

 

[craigbaill]

When you go to get a saw go to a dealer. I like the Stihl MS250 with an 18" bar, it's a good saw and very versatile. Stihl chains are very good quality as well. Stihl came out with a super fast and easy filing sharpening system that keeps the dogs at the right height too. It's pricey at $40 but it's like putting a new chain on and it can be used in the field. Keep your old saw too if it runs good. Take your time it takes a couple years to get organized and efficient but the savings will come and the heat will be far superior to any traditional oil, gas or electric heating system.

As far as you wood goes, 25% will get you by. Check it on a freshly split piece along the grain of the wood to be sure you are performing the test properly.

Stihl 2 in 1 filing Guide

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/2in1file/

I have this http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/2in1file/[/quote] ( as suggested by someone on this site! ) and it rocks. It is super consistent and it does a great job. Mind you I have the most basic chain as I have the Stihl MS170 saw but if the chain is sharp, I can cut for awhile and throw big(ish) chips. I could never get consistent rakers hand filing but thats me... I keep three chains in rotation. a side note: the original chain I got with the saw was re-sharpened by the dealer and it lasted about 10 minutes before it started throwing fine dust. Maybe someone else could shed some light as to whether or not the 2 in 1 guide works for non- Stihl chains.

 

[RobertNH]

You have had some great advise given and it looks like your willing to learn.
Good for you!
You came to the right place and heeding the advise.
Likin' this!

If you're dropping your own trees, plan how and how many.
Not only good property management, but you think about where their dropping (or what their dropping into).
I've been known to put a log or 2 in the path of the fall to create a space if needed.
Usually, there's enough strong branches to hold up sections to length out to manageable lengths.
And, yes, as suggested, roll the pieces/lengths.

These guys will hate me for sayin' this... and I'm ready for the 'flack'... but,
I've given up on the Big Boy Chainsaws...
I've gone electric... (oh my I think I just swore... not allowed..)

Good chain!
Learn how to sharpen!
Stay out of the dirt!
Please, protect yourself!

I for one, want to hear more good stories from ya!

 

[lindnova]

When you go to get a saw go to a dealer. I like the Stihl MS250 with an 18" bar, it's a good saw and very versatile. Stihl chains are very good quality as well. Stihl came out with a super fast and easy filing sharpening system that keeps the dogs at the right height too. It's pricey at $40 but it's like putting a new chain on and it can be used in the field. Keep your old saw too if it runs good. Take your time it takes a couple years to get organized and efficient but the savings will come and the heat will be far superior to any traditional oil, gas or electric heating system.

As far as you wood goes, 25% will get you by. Check it on a freshly split piece along the grain of the wood to be sure you are performing the test properly.

Stihl 2 in 1 filing Guide

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/2in1file/

The Stihl 250 (good saw) has been replaced by the 251 and has one bolt holding on the bar that some have had break off (plastic mount) that I would be leary of. There are still plenty of great stihl saws for homeowners such as the ms270 or ms290. My personal preference for one small saw is the MS 261 - light, fast, durable, but spendy. For larger wood the MS362 is great, but larger than many a homeowner would need. I would give it another year to see if you really need to replace the saw you have. I started out with a Poulon wild thing and it ran forever and did the job, but vibrated the heck out of my hands compared to my 260.

As far as filing, It took me a few years before I finally got the hang of hand filing and now I wonder why it took so long. Youtube videos are great teachers. I have a bench grinder that works great, but I do most of my filing by hand now. One or 2 hits after 2 tanks of gas and 2 or 3 hits on the vise. It is faster for me. I use the bench grinder to true things up if they get off or metal hits every now and then.

 

[CTYank]

For bucking (and felling) you want a few plastic wedges, 5" and 8". When you start a cut, you can just push a wedge into the kerf once the saw has cut down far enough to not hit the wedge. The wedge will keep the kerf from closing and pinching the bar & chain. When you move to another cut, you can just pull out the wedge as you wish. Very good habit to get into. Placing wood under logs before they drop to ground level = priceless.

Especially here, use one or more wedges where you're going to cut through. Even if you have a spare saw, getting pinched is sub-optimum.

For getting the most use out of a chain between sharpenings, semi-chisel chain is way better than full-chisel. Still won't cope well with ditch-witching.

Anybody touting a stihl 250/251 is doing you no favor. It's mediocre at best. For the same bux, get a dolmar ps-421, it'll run circles around the stihl- it's a "pro" saw.

 

[Rossco]

I wanna see the guy that can cut 9 cords on a single sharpening. If I get more than one cord out of a chain before I feel the need to swap - I am feeling pretty lucky.

Wodda ya mean by 'changing chain'?

Changing out to a sharper chain or throwing that chain away?

 

[jebatty]

Enjoyable to review all the comments. Excellent advice. The most important advice is one mistake can end your life or half of your face. Never can you be too careful, never get too tired, never saw without full safety equipment, and never push a saw with a dull chain -- priceless. 23 years now of sawing stove wood for house and shop, about 9 cords/year, plus saw logs for around 5000 bd ft per year. My Husky 372XP with an 18" bar, bought new in 2002, has been flawless, no maintenance at all except sharp chains.

I have rotated the same 10 chains during all this time. Starting with my own machine sharpening, I then hand sharpen touch-up after each tank of gas, 4-5 times usually, then switch to a new chain. When all 10 chains have been used, machine sharpen again, all at the same grinder setting so wear is even. I also regularly grind the bar and use a rail closer to keep the bar in top shape.

 

[Ashful]

Wodda ya mean by 'changing chain'?

Changing out to a sharper chain or throwing that chain away?

Swap to a sharper chain, put the dull one in a box to take home and sharpen at a more convenient time.

 

[TreePointer]

+1

I'll sharpen in the field if I must, but I'd much rather sharpen on my workbench.

 

[awfarmington]

More than a couple dollars poorer...BUT I think we are finally on the right path. Thus far, I have or have coming;

Steel toe boots for son
Steel toe shoes for me
Chain saw chaps (sharing)
Helmet w/ guard and ear protection
Oregon chain
Hook for rolling log
Wedge set for under tree

We are nearly done this season. But I should be all set for next spring and hopefully slightly less green.

 

[Rossco]

Swap to a sharper chain, put the dull one in a box to take home and sharpen at a more convenient time.

Oh I thought you meant throw it away Ha Ha Ha. Silly me I guess.

Av just tuned the chain today, I even filed the rackers down for the first time this season. I sharpen every time I go out. Just a few swipes with the file and check the saw out.

 

[JP11]

There you go!

Make sure you USE all that gear. Watch a bunch of chainsaw safety videos online. It's not rocket science, but it's one of the scariest homeowner tools to operate. Much damage can be done very quickly.

Stay safe, and enjoy the peace of mind heating with a renewable, very affordable heat source.

JP

 

[Danno77]

More than a couple dollars poorer...BUT I think we are finally on the right path. Thus far, I have or have coming;

Steel toe boots for son
Steel toe shoes for me
Chain saw chaps (sharing)
Helmet w/ guard and ear protection
Oregon chain
Hook for rolling log
Wedge set for under tree

We are nearly done this season. But I should be all set for next spring and hopefully slightly less green.

You are a quick learner. Takes some people a lot longer to figure this all out.

 

[Fred Wright]

I'm late to this conversation, just want to thank you folks for your excellent, professional advice.

On chain dulling and dirt, red maple is susceptible to carpenter ant infestations at the base of the tree. I've cut many reds here and over half the stumps still stand. Carpenter ant nests seem to create a dirty environment, almost like sand or soil inside the stump. Dulled more than one chain trying to trim those dirty stumps, not gonna do it anymore.

If the log you're cutting has dirt or mud on the bark from where it fell, that will dull a chain right away. You can use an ax to remove the dirty bark where you wish to make your cuts.

Hope it helps.

 

[Highbeam]

Wodda ya mean by 'changing chain'?

Changing out to a sharper chain or throwing that chain away?

That guy that gets 9 cords out of a chain means with sharpenings he can get 9 cords. Not 9 cords before one sharpening. I get way way more than 9 cords out of a chain.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I get way way more than 9 cords out of a chain.

I get 10-15

 

[Ashful]

If you can keep track of how many cords you get out of a chain, you don't own enough saws... or chains.

 

[TreePointer]

So are we talkin' cords, face cords, bush cords, chords, ricks, or corduroy?