Chains dulling VERY quickly

[Highbeam]

I used a poulan for many years. Cheap, disposable, don't fix it when you run it over or break it somehow just buy another if it fails. Honestly, with a sharp chain, that poulan was very decent. It was also very quiet and started dependably. Sure, there are higher quality saws and I now own one but there is no reason to throw away a functional poulan.

I wear ear muffs and leather shoes. No other safety gear. I've also been known to ride a bicycle without a helmet but always wear a seatbelt in the truck and a helmet when on the motorcycle. I just don't feel the risks are that high with a chainsaw. You may choose to be all geared up like some sort of robot and that is fine too. The huge majority of firewood cutters don't even protect their ears.

Until recently I didn't have a log rolling tool. I would cut through 3/4 and then stop sawing, roll the whole log using lots of grunts and my little muscles, and then cut through on top. Rather than 3/4 of the way through you can also cut until you just start to see the top of the cut coming together. The idea is to keep your saw out of the dirt, save your back from bending, and not pinch your bar in the cut.

 

[Ashful]

I also do 90% of my processing with no PPE, but I wouldn't be quick to advise others to do it. I've just been lucky. I've seen too many people (many here) very experienced and knowledgeable on proper use of a chainsaw, have unfortunate accidents or a momentary lapse of vigilance.

I do always gear up when going out into the woods for a full day of felling and bucking. It's those countless, "let me just run out for an hour and process some rounds," sessions where I don't do as I should.

 

[dougand3]

Here is another way to check your chain fitment:

(broken link removed to http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG)

 

[JP11]

Under a hundred bucks for a pair of chainsaw chaps. your deductible for the ER visit is probably 250.

Chainsaw shop stocks all kinds of protective gear. Never have seen an arm or a leg on sale there though.

JP

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I wear ears and eyes when cutting. I wear boots and gloves too but those will avail me nothing should they make contact with the spinning chain on the legendary Stihl MS440 Magnum.

The few times I've worn chaps they are very hot, very fatiguing, and very awkward - all of which poses other, more serious safety risks than those the chaps were meant to prevent.

 

[awfarmington]

A lot of varying opinions!

I've decided to order the protective gear, mainly because my 17 year old helps a lot with cutting the trees. Personally, I will stop wearing my shorts and flip flops, but can't see totally suiting up.

I already have an amazon giftcard, so would like to get a chain there if possible. Opinions on this Oregon one?

http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-S62-18...608110&sr=1-2&keywords=oregon+chainsaw+chains

 

[TreePointer]

This is what I wear every time, even in summer:

Earmuffs
Safety glasses
Gloves
Chaps
Steel toe boots

When dropping trees, I wear a forestry helmet with a metal mesh shield. I'll wear the same safety glasses under the shield.

Current favorites:

3M Peltor H10A Optime 105 Earmuff (very comfy, 30 db NRR)
Impact Resistant Safety Glasses (inexpensive, but up to standards)
(broken link removed to http://www.labonville.com/Full-Wrap-Chainsaw-Safety-Chaps-Parts-_c_80.html)
Stihl antivibration gloves

 

[JP11]

Full wrap chaps.. they take a bit longer to put on, but wear like pants.

Yes.. they are hot. I have a great disability policy at work.. but it's still capped a salary that's about half of normal. Not interested in trying it out unnecessarily!

JP

 

[TreePointer]

I already have an amazon giftcard, so would like to get a chain there if possible. Opinions on this Oregon one?

http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-S62-18-Inch-Craftsman-Homelite/dp/B00004RA81/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1411608110&sr=1-2&keywords=oregon chainsaw chains

That chain is 3/8LP pitch, .050 gauge, and has 62 drive links. It is likely the same chain that came with the saw, so it will be no improvement over the original chain. If you tell us the saw's model number, we can confirm that it is the proper chain for the saw and give you more options.

Note that 3/8LP (low profile) pitch is not the same as 3/8 pitch. They are not interchangeable. 3/8LP pitch chains sharpen with a 5/32 round file. 3/8 pitch chain sharpens with a 7/32 (or sometimes 13/64) round file.

 

[awfarmington]

Model # PP4218AVX is what we have right now.

 

[highanddryinco]

A lot of varying opinions!

I've decided to order the protective gear, mainly because my 17 year old helps a lot with cutting the trees. Personally, I will stop wearing my shorts and flip flops, but can't see totally suiting up.

I already have an amazon giftcard, so would like to get a chain there if possible. Opinions on this Oregon one?

http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-S62-18-Inch-Craftsman-Homelite/dp/B00004RA81/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1411608110&sr=1-2&keywords=oregon chainsaw chains

Excellent choice. And yes, you'll certainly get opinions here that run the gamut but notice the ratio of the ones promoting safety gear to those that aren't. I can't believe no one has yet posted the link to the chainsaw injury photo pages. It'll help reinforce your decision to wear the stuff.
I'm as guilty as anyone about thinking I can do (and occasionally doing) those few cuts without the gear but then when I look at my chaps sitting in the truck and see the few little pick holes in them from where a chain coasting to a stop has lightly touched them over the years, I realize each of those tiny little holes would likely have been trip to the ER and how foolish I was.

 

[TreePointer]

Poulan 4218AVX (42cc engine, 18" bar)

You can run a chain from any maker (Stihl, Husqvarna, Oregon, Windsor, etc.) that matches the following criteria:

Pitch = 3/8LP
Gauge = .050
DL = 62

That Oregon S62 chain is compatible according to the Oregon chain selector webpage.

One thing to note is that some retailers that sell everything and don't specialize in chainsaws or outdoor power equipment sometimes confuse 3/8 and 3/8LP pitches in their product pages.

 

[awfarmington]

Poulan 4218AVX (42cc engine, 18" bar)

You can run a chain from any maker (Stihl, Husqvarna, Oregon, Windsor, etc.) that matches the following criteria:

Pitch = 3/8LP
Gauge = .050
DL = 62

That Oregon S62 chain is compatible according to the Oregon chain selector webpage.

One thing to note is that some retailers that sell everything and don't specialize in chainsaws or outdoor power equipment sometimes confuse 3/8 and 3/8LP pitches in their product pages.

What is the advantage or disadvantage to the LP chains?

 

[Danno77]

Sorry to be late to the conversation, but I had some more advice on quick to dull chains. I'd be willing to bet that the number one reason has been called (the dirt, like pointed out many times above), but another compounding factor could be the people sharpening your chain.

I ran into this for a year or two when I would take my nice Stihl chains to the Stihl dealership and have them sharpened and they would never hold the edge. Turns out that (and you could REALLY see it on the chain) they were just hitting each cutter with one hard hit. That and they were never even touching the rakers. Both of these sins cause problems in the long run. What happens is that they overheat the chain's metal and it loses its temper and dulls easier. If the rakers are low enough, then your teeth are going to overheat by just basically rubbing on the wood and then you dull quick that way, too.

My advice is to get a couple of new chains and learn to hand file. Sounds like you are already halfway there based on what the thread has read thus far.

PPE is more than for safety, BTW. It makes you look totally badass. That's super important IMO. Seriously, though. Get some all of the PPE mentioned above.

 

[Ashful]

PPE is more than for safety, BTW. It makes you look totally badass. That's super important IMO. Seriously, though. Get some all of the PPE mentioned above.

 

[TreePointer]

What is the advantage or disadvantage to the LP chains?

A saw has a certain amount of power to pull a chain through wood. This power may be measured in horsepower or displacement.

Each tooth of a chain takes a "bite" of wood when it passes through the log. The different chain pitches available take different sized bites of wood.

If the saw has a larger pitch on it, that means it will take a larger bite of wood. In general, this is a good thing because larger bites mean faster cutting, yeehaw! However, lower powered saws just don't have enough power to take really big bites without bogging down or even stalling. Taking too large a bite for the saw's power can also be a safety issue because it can cause the saw to be too "grabby" and result in loss of control (kickback, push, pull).

Some common chain pitches in order of "bite" size:
1/4 < 3/8LP < .325 < 3/8 < .404

Typical pitch found on saws according to displacement (generally):
45cc or smaller = 3/8LP
45cc - 55cc = .325
60cc and larger = 3/8

The mid-50cc saws are a crossover displacement in which you'll find both .325 and 3/8 pitches from the factory. These include popular midlevel saws like the Stihl 290 FarmBoss and the Husqvarna 455 Rancher.

Note that you can change a saw's pitch by changing the drive sprocket on the powerhead. This also means that you need to buy a new bar and chains to match the pitch of new drive sprocket. Oh, and you'll need to get another file guide and files to match, too!

 

[awfarmington]

This saving money on burning wood sure is getting expensive! LOL

If a lower powered saw (possibly the one I own) cannot quite handle a chain with a bigger pitch without kickback, then I think it may be wise to hold off until next summer when I have a nicer saw and am not quite so 'green'.

Regarding the sharpening method, I just bring it the the Amish guy at the local hardware and I'm not sure how he does it. When I pick up my chains tomorrow, I will take a closer look.

BTW, I ordered a pair of steel toe boots today. One step at a time...

 

[Charles1981]

Already been said, but if you hit dirt with the chain it is almost guaranteed immediately dull.

My rookie mistake as well.

cut 80% through and then roll the log as another member already suggested.

Hand filing isn't bad, and I have been filing my own. 1-2 passes on the cutters after after 2 fuel tank reloads and I can extend a chain for about 10 tank refills or so and get through about 1.5-2 cords per chain. I am still not very good at filing down rakers no matter how many videos I watch and I don't have anyone experienced to teach me how to properly.

Many state you should be able to go 6-9 cords without having to change a chain...I haven't found that at all with my chains...but i still get kind of risky and try and cut through 90 percent and am pretty sure I have grazed the ground a few times with each chain...and Some of the trees get punky and My chain seems to dull going through really punky wood as well or is it my imagination.

Anyway good luck with the wood.

 

[highanddryinco]

Don't get too caught up in all the power and pitch postulation right now. Sounds like you've got a saw that runs. Sounds like you've got plenty of wood to cut up. Get yourself some sharp chain(s) for the saw you have and some PPE. Watch those Stihl videos that were mentioned earlier. (Chapter 9 addresses the issue you mentioned way back when.) Take your time, learn the basics in cutting and in saw care. You'll be surprised how much you can do with the saw you already own. Buy your dream saw a little further down the road when you find out what this saw will and won't do for you.

 

[Charles1981]

I was going to add as well, don't get caught up in SAW envy. The poulan has plenty of power to do 90% of the tasks you want it to. Maybe not as efficiently or with as much grace, but It is a good saw to start on. After you get through your first couple years you can decide if a more pro-type saw is a step you want to take.

 

[Ashful]

Hand filing isn't bad, and I have been filing my own. 1-2 passes on the cutters after after 2 fuel tank reloads and I can extend a chain for about 10 tank refills or so and get through about 1.5-2 cords per chain. I am still not very good at filing down rakers no matter how many videos I watch and I don't have anyone experienced to teach me how to properly.

Many life-long firewood cutters, and many pro cutters, just hit their chain with a hand file after every tank or two. It's definitely a good way to go, and damn quick, once you get good at it. A chain grinder is NOT necessary for the average firewood cutter, but a sharp chain is!

Many state you should be able to go 6-9 cords without having to change a chain...I haven't found that at all with my chains...

Many will also state that a penny dropped from the Empire State Building will kill the person it hits below, but don't believe them. I have never been able to get more than a full day out of a chain before it is noticeably duller than I'd like for best speed and least effort, and I have never been able to process 6-9 cords in a single day. I usually plan to use two chains per day, when out cutting all day, if I don't hit something. I put a fresh chain on at the beginning of the day, and swap it at lunch time. Those who hand sharpen will often sharpen every second time they put fuel in the saw, or when they break for lunch.

I was going to add as well, don't get caught up in SAW envy. The poulan has plenty of power to do 90% of the tasks you want it to. Maybe not as efficiently or with as much grace, but It is a good saw to start on. After you get through your first couple years you can decide if a more pro-type saw is a step you want to take.

I cut with a 40cc saw for maybe the first 30 years of my life. It wasn't the fastest saw on earth, but it worked fine for bucking stuff to length in my back yard. Bigger saws are fun, and lighter pro saws are great for spending all day in the woods, but don't assume you can't make your current saw work for many years.

 

[TreePointer]

As others have mentioned, lots of people cut wood with a saw like yours. I once used my brother's 42cc Craftsman (a clone of your Poulan saw) to cut up an entire 18" red maple tree that blew down. It did very well with the chain that came with it.

The chain that comes with your saw is matched to the power of your saw, so you don't need to worry about changing anything.

 

[BrotherBart]

The utility company contracted tree service that did the trimming on my driveway yesterday and that cut down and bucked a 121' oak told me that they only buy "homeowner saws" anymore. They are a crew that does four miles of right of way a week on average.

 

[TreePointer]

Heh, with the way I've seen some crews treat saws, there's no way I'd buy pro saws for them either!

On the other hand, I saw the PENNDOT crew trimming roadside trees in my neighborhood with a shiny new Stihl 362. They looked fab in their snazzy new PPE aand were very careful with the saw but had no idea how to cut a limb without pinching a bar or stripping bark.

 

[Rossco]

Yeah you need to make the chain number one priority when cutting on the ground. Also beware of downed logs, dirt from dragging etc. Some tree bark will suck rock, sand and dirt in during its life span. No getting around that unless the bark falls off.

Some people don't help by incorrectly sharpening the chain. Iam two seasons on a Stihl chain and its gonna be good for atleast one more. Maybe another.

I don't wear any PPE apart from gloves and safety shades. I like to hear the saw during the cut. The one thing I ALWAYS do is pivot my left wrist forward so its near touching the brake.