Cape Cod or Blaze King Ashford 30?

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Maybe four months of burning per year, lotta shoulder action. Low-draft city. Wouldn't necessarily need a big stove, depending on how tight the house is.
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The house was built in 1988 and the exterior is T1-11 siding and not insulated to good. It was very hot inside during the summer even with the A/C on high. I would like to rip the siding down and replace with concrete siding, prior to that spray foam everything so it is very tight and efficient.
 
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The house was built in 1988 and the exterior is T1-11 siding and not insulated to good.
In 1988, the minimum code requirement was R-11 walls and R-19 ceilings.

(broken link removed to http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/standards_archive/1988_standards/CEC-400-1988-001.PDF)
 
In 1988, the minimum code requirement was R-11 walls and R-19 ceilings.

(broken link removed to http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/standards_archive/1988_standards/CEC-400-1988-001.PDF)

I have not torn into the walls yet to see what is there. I have lots of Windows on the south side of the house so I know that does not help either. Thank you for the 1988 code, I will read through it.
 
From another thread: "IIRC, the original gasket was held in place by intermittent blobs of what looked like furnace cement - not a continuous bead."
That doesn't sound like German engineering to me. And in an accident, with that thin sheet metal, that thing will crumple up like a Cavalier. ;lol

Probably best not to take either the Lopi or Blaze King for a spin on the local highway . . . ;)
 
My baffle continually warped, as well as the bracket that holds the andirons. Lopi would do nothing to help me! When I took the tubes out so I could "smash the baffle flat with a hammer" per Lopi instructions, the screws that hold the tubes broke! So not only was I hammering out a baffle on a $3,500 stove, I also get to drill and tap the secondary air manifold. I decided to sell the thing, while I was cleaning it out I found that the stove itself had cracked behind the firebrick. In an area that the average person would never look.

I took great satisfaction sending the Cape Cod back to Travis Industries in a Blaze King Ashford crate!;lol
My replacement baffle from Travis had a label with SS 304. Type 304 Stainless is not recommended for high heat environments if one looks on the net. Type 309 and others are more heat resistant. I took a photo of the Travis shipping label.
 
Don't want to sidetrack this thread, but what's a good price for an Ashford 30 base model w/o blower.
 
Don't want to sidetrack this thread, but what's a good price for an Ashford 30 base model w/o blower.
2600 sq.ft. without a blower? You must have a really open floor plan, or you're gonna rig an aftermarket blower...
 
Don't want to sidetrack this thread, but what's a good price for an Ashford 30 base model w/o blower.
List price varies by region, I believe. Around here, it's $3500 in stove black without blowers. With enamel and blowers it lists around $3900. Dealer discounts vary, with the four or five I called varying from $800 below list to $200 over list. Point being, call around.
 
List price varies by region, I believe. Around here, it's $3500 in stove black without blowers. With enamel and blowers it lists around $3900. Dealer discounts vary, with the four or five I called varying from $800 below list to $200 over list. Point being, call around.
The place I went to was $3,100 in matte black. Not sure if it cames with the blower. I'm in Northern California.
 
Funny thing is that one place I checked quoted me a price and then when I asked a few more questions, they happen to mention these are prices without a door. Huh? I can buy a stove without a door? Ha ha I know its so you can customize a door, but seriously seems ridiculous.
 
Funny thing is that one place I checked quoted me a price and then when I asked a few more questions, they happen to mention these are prices without a door. Huh? I can buy a stove without a door? Ha ha I know its so you can customize a door, but seriously seems ridiculous.
That is odd. You'd think people would be more interested in the price "out the door".
 
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That was a great deal from what most are quoting me around here.
You're right, that's why I finally pulled the trigger. The first quote I got was the worst, and was around $3200. After finding out I'd get $1008 back from the state and $300 from the feds, there wasn't any question.
 
You're right, that's why I finally pulled the trigger. The first quote I got was the worst, and was around $3200. After finding out I'd get $1008 back from the state and $300 from the feds, there wasn't any question.
Best arpund here was $3200. Almost worth driving to OR with cheap gas. Lol
 
Aren't you in Oregon? I'm in Wisconsin.
pvfjr gets a pass, freeburn. Oregon state had to cut back on school funding, a few years back.

(broken link removed to https://www.oregoned.org/stay-informed/school-funding/k-12-funding)
 
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pvfjr gets a pass, freeburn. Oregon state had to cut back on school funding, a few years back.

(broken link removed to https://www.oregoned.org/stay-informed/school-funding/k-12-funding)
Harsh. ;)

What I was getting at is the fact that Walla Walla is closer to WI than Portland is. In addition, a dealer in Walla Walla shouldn't have any shipping costs to cover like a dealer in Portland would. Plus, he could eat some sweet onions while he's there. The difference in sales tax may be a wash though. He'd just have to call around to find out. The mountain passes sure make for good driving right now too! :cool:
 
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When in Walla Walla you are in wine country. Current wineries are over 140.
 
When in Walla Walla you are in wine country. Current wineries are over 140.

Don't forget the big prison and you're near Hanford where we dump most of our nuke waste. Maybe that's why the BKs burn so long.
 
Hey, I'm here too! Well I am 50-70 days a year.
 
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