Cant get my new stove to get hot enough please help.

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This is the first year in my woodburning history that the wood is wetter than usual at this point. It equates with other signs of water/dampness generally in other areas of our property. A bit of a struggle but adapting to the change
 
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I have the same stove. The stovetop doesn’t run too hot, it has a sheet metal guard under the top. I think it’s to prevent direct flame contact with the cast iron top. It seems to make the top run a bit cooler. You will hear a strange noise at some point, usually after a really quick start. It’s the sheild expanding quicker than the cast iron and makes a noise. The first time you hear it it sounds strange. It only does it on a quick on heat up from cold.
Mine usually cruises at 450-500. When it’s really cranking it may be up to 600. Don’t block the doghouse air. It’s one small hole in the center front of the stove just below the door lip.
Put kindling in front right near this air hole. Cast iron takes awhile to heat up. Leave door just slightly cracked until top reaches at least 200-250. Close door and leave lever pulled forward until top reaches 400. Then cut it back about 1/4 to half and see how it goes from there. On a hot reload you can cut it back quicker. Is your outside chimney 6” ?
thanks alot ill give a try
 
I have the same stove. The stovetop doesn’t run too hot, it has a sheet metal guard under the top. I think it’s to prevent direct flame contact with the cast iron top. It seems to make the top run a bit cooler. You will hear a strange noise at some point, usually after a really quick start. It’s the sheild expanding quicker than the cast iron and makes a noise. The first time you hear it it sounds strange. It only does it on a quick on heat up from cold.
Mine usually cruises at 450-500. When it’s really cranking it may be up to 600. Don’t block the doghouse air. It’s one small hole in the center front of the stove just below the door lip.
Put kindling in front right near this air hole. Cast iron takes awhile to heat up. Leave door just slightly cracked until top reaches at least 200-250. Close door and leave lever pulled forward until top reaches 400. Then cut it back about 1/4 to half and see how it goes from there. On a hot reload you can cut it back quicker. Is your outside chimney 6” ?
yes its 6inch
 
I have the same stove. The stovetop doesn’t run too hot, it has a sheet metal guard under the top. I think it’s to prevent direct flame contact with the cast iron top. It seems to make the top run a bit cooler. You will hear a strange noise at some point, usually after a really quick start. It’s the sheild expanding quicker than the cast iron and makes a noise. The first time you hear it it sounds strange. It only does it on a quick on heat up from cold.
Mine usually cruises at 450-500. When it’s really cranking it may be up to 600. Don’t block the doghouse air. It’s one small hole in the center front of the stove just below the door lip.
Put kindling in front right near this air hole. Cast iron takes awhile to heat up. Leave door just slightly cracked until top reaches at least 200-250. Close door and leave lever pulled forward until top reaches 400. Then cut it back about 1/4 to half and see how it goes from there. On a hot reload you can cut it back quicker. Is your outside chimney 6” ?
I have the same stove. The stovetop doesn’t run too hot, it has a sheet metal guard under the top. I think it’s to prevent direct flame contact with the cast iron top. It seems to make the top run a bit cooler. You will hear a strange noise at some point, usually after a really quick start. It’s the sheild expanding quicker than the cast iron and makes a noise. The first time you hear it it sounds strange. It only does it on a quick on heat up from cold.
Mine usually cruises at 450-500. When it’s really cranking it may be up to 600. Don’t block the doghouse air. It’s one small hole in the center front of the stove just below the door lip.
Put kindling in front right near this air hole. Cast iron takes awhile to heat up. Leave door just slightly cracked until top reaches at least 200-250. Close door and leave lever pulled forward until top reaches 400. Then cut it back about 1/4 to half and see how it goes from there. On a hot reload you can cut it back quicker. Is your outside chimney 6” ?
Good morning so I think it was the wood because I bought dry wood from lowes and its working fine and im getting radiant when I shut the air flow 1/2 way with the door shut and its going good. Its only 50 degrees here on long island so im not filling it to the top but .......I just wanted to ask you where do you put your thermometer on the stove because even when it was roaring pretty good this morning I couldnt get it above 300deg also do you ahave a specific way you load this stove that works for you?
 
this is after a hour or two haven't added much more due to it not being too cold out right now
 

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I'm glad you worked out the wood issue. Poorly seasoned wood is the #1 problem new stove owners seem to face. Unfortunately a lot of wood sellers have no problem lying and telling people that the wood they sell is seasoned. Hearthstove recommends putting the stove top thermometer on the top center of the stove.

Looks like that is a stove top thermometer on the pipe and that is double-wall stove pipe. If so, the thermometer should be used on the stove top and the stove pipe should have a probe thermometer installed. Surface temperature reading on double-wall stove pipe is not useful and can be misleading. Condar makes a good probe thermometer.
http://www.condar.com/Probe_Thermometers.html
 
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I was going to ask if that was double wall. It's a lot hotter inside that pipe than that is saying even if its single wall. Doubly so if double wall.
 
I'm glad you worked out the wood issue. Poorly seasoned wood is the #1 problem new stove owners seem to face. Unfortunately a lot of wood sellers have no problem lying and telling people that the wood they sell is seasoned. Hearthstove recommends putting the stove top thermometer on the top center of the stove.

Looks like that is a stove top thermometer on the pipe and that is double-wall stove pipe. If so, the thermometer should be used on the stove top and the stove pipe should have a probe thermometer installed. Surface temperature reading on double-wall stove pipe is not useful and can be misleading. Condar makes a good probe thermometer.
http://www.condar.com/Probe_Thermometers.html
well that makes sense thank you for the info
 
Once you get dry wood and a probe thermometer, try to keep the flue gas temperature below 800ºF. Use the stove pipe temperature as a guide to turning down the stove air in increments. You will have to judge what works best for your flue and stove, but maybe start by turning down the air half way when the flue temp reaches 5-600F. Then let the fire regain strength and turn down the air again when it is burning well. How far you can turn down the air will depend on the wood and the draft which will get stronger as it gets colder outside. Some people can turn it down all the way and some can turn it down to around 3/4 closed.
 
This is the first year in my woodburning history that the wood is wetter than usual at this point. It equates with other signs of water/dampness generally in other areas of our property. A bit of a struggle but adapting to the change

I also have notice my wood is a bit higher in moisture this year then in any in the past 6 years of burning. We have had a very wet fall here in Wisconsin. I checked a bunch of splits and was between 15-20%, I'm used to getting 13-17% after the 3rd year. I do the same thing every year with the ~3 cords of red oak. Uncovered first 2 years and covered the last year. My first fire was yesterday and all's good after 24 hours of burning. Cruising at 550-650 with awesome secondaries and the glass is perfectly clean. I did also see allot of mushrooms on the ends of our wood at 2 year mark, never had this before.
 
My firewood I left uncoveredthis year (namely the "to be split pile" ) is sopping wet after all the rain we had this year. ( Sitting for 2 years ! ) Thought I could split it and cherry pick it....not happening, I'm buying a cord that I know is seasoned for insurance this season.

Anyways ..... welcome to the forums, Neighbor !! Sounds like you've figured out your problem.

I'm in Brookhaven Towm, and have access to seasoned firewood for sale from a friend. If I can hook you up, let me know !
 
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My firewood I left uncoveredthis year (namely the "to be split pile" ) is sopping wet after all the rain we had this year. ( Sitting for 2 years ! ) Thought I could split it and cherry pick it....not happening, I'm buying a cord that I know is seasoned for insurance this season.

Anyways ..... welcome to the forums, Neighbor !! Sounds like you've figured out your problem.

I'm in Brookhaven Towm, and have access to seasoned firewood for sale from a friend. If I can hook you up, let me know !
Same here Dix. I'm top-covering from now on. If the neighbors don't like the free harbor freight blue tarps, they can buy us whatever color tarps they like.
 
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I used to use the tarps that were too beaten up for the boat. Then I got rid of the boat. Now I use whatever used tarp I can get my paws on. There's something wrong with buying a new tarp for firewood. Free is ok though, lol.
 
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Same here Dix. I'm top-covering from now on. If the neighbors don't like the free harbor freight blue tarps, they can buy us whatever color tarps they like.

Hint - Dollar Tree shower curtains. $1 a piece ;)
 
Glad you got it sorted out. The hottest spot on the top of the stove seems to be just a few inches to the back of center. I keep my thermometer there.
If your stacking single stacks check out tarps direct. They have a 3ft x18ft forest green tarp that’s perfect. They are under $5 each. I bought four. They are much heavier than the cheap harbor freight ones.
 
My firewood I left uncoveredthis year (namely the "to be split pile" ) is sopping wet after all the rain we had this year. ( Sitting for 2 years ! ) Thought I could split it and cherry pick it....not happening, I'm buying a cord that I know is seasoned for insurance this season.

Anyways ..... welcome to the forums, Neighbor !! Sounds like you've figured out your problem.

I'm in Brookhaven Towm, and have access to seasoned firewood for sale from a friend. If I can hook you up, let me know !
Im definitely interested ive been looking for some more wood but I dont know who to go with after this fiasco
 
Im definitely interested ive been looking for some more wood but I dont know who to go with after this fiasco
It is very rare to be able to buy wood that is ready to burn
 
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It is very rare to be able to buy wood that is ready to burn

Yes it is.

I am lucky in that he's a burner, and does this on the side. And doesn't have a huge clientele. And he's less than a mile away.

Plus his sister is in my horse circle ;):cool:
 
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Oh we are here, trust me . Hell, I'm here 10 years now ;)

Yes it is.

I am lucky in that he's a burner, and does this on the side. And doesn't have a huge clientele. And he's less than a mile away.

Plus his sister is in my horse circle ;):cool:
and hes selling
Yes it is.

I am lucky in that he's a burner, and does this on the side. And doesn't have a huge clientele. And he's less than a mile away.
Plus his sister is in my horse circle ;):cool:

And he has seasoned wood to sell?
 
I have 2 of the same thermometers on mine, it's single wall pipe though. I've never bought firewood from a dealer before but I'd be very angry if I got 30+% moisture content advertised as seasoned wood. Because it's not. Semper Fi
 

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I have 2 of the same thermometers on mine, it's single wall pipe though. I've never bought firewood from a dealer before but I'd be very angry if I got 30+% moisture content advertised as seasoned wood. Because it's not. Semper Fi
semper fi 0311