Caddy Install

[brenndatomu]

Yup, wet wood is tough. Put a manual pipe damper in the stove pipe to help keep things in check. shoot for -.05" WC to -.06"WC
I use the manual damper sometimes if the Baro is cooling the chimney off too much and making it get crudded up. I cover the baro with HD aluminum foil when running this way.

 

[tobes]

We are on a hill and the wind can be erratic. Would I be constantly adjusting a manual damper ? Maybe I should try putting the "T" and Baro back in line and use your tinfoil over the Baro idea for 15-20 minutes each morning,getting the flue around 400F, it may help to keep the rain cap clear. Then let the Baro do its thing for the rest of the day and evening. What do you think ?

 

[brenndatomu]

Would I be constantly adjusting a manual damper

No, I don't. Set it and forget it unless it is a REALLY windy day. You could try the foil trick...see what happens

 

[laynes69]

Yeah, it's going to be tough burning wood with that moisture content. There is a way to eliminate your barometric damper, and that involves blocking the secondary ports a percentage and adjusting the primary to open less. This mimics a shorter chimney and allows for control of the burn. We have a 32' chimney, and 3 months ago did this. My draft hits .14" at times (open damper fresh load) but towards the middle and end of burn, the draft levels out. I've had such good results, I'm going to eliminate my barometric damper which is currently covered.

 

[tobes]

When you are getting a draft of 0.14" WC what are your flue temps like ? Are the secondary air inlets the square holes on either side of the door ?

 

[laynes69]

I went back and looked at your post, you have a good setup. One of the reasons why your capped is plugged is wet wood. Are you required to have a screen on the chimney cap, and how does the chimney itself look? If the chimney looks good with little creosote and the cap is plugged, I'd consider eliminating the screen or opening it up a little. Your wood should be around 15-20%, when it's 25-30, it won't run well. My temps remain the same as before I eliminated the baro, and the secondary ports are below the door on either side. I wouldn't do that for now however, your wet wood is the culprit to your issues.

 

[tobes]

I was thinking about removing the screen, the only problem is access. The chimney extends 9' feet above the roof to meet requirements, so I have to remove sections to get at the cap. That's the main reason I hired a sweep earlier this week. The guy who cleaned the chimney said the chimney wasn't bad, just the cap was plugged. He also said that I shouldn't have a Baro on it and if I did I can't run it off an elbow like I had. On a side, an HVAC friend said it shouldn't be a problem that is does the same thing on the elbow as it would on the Tee. I am not required to have a cap but had issues with birds getting into the old oil chimney the last few years, so I was trying to head the problem off.

 

[tobes]

Also, I would say approximately 1/3 of what I have isn't completely seasoned. I had some cut ahead last year, just not enough for the winter.