Blaze king Sirroco 20 help

[Rickb]

I would try to stay encouraged. You have a issue but once corrected it should work very well. My 20 is heating my whole finnished area in my basement(about 750sqft) with enough heat left to keep the main floor around 69-70 as logn as the lows are above 20ish.

Your air leak is not in the stovepipe/chimney side. It will be in the box itself or the primary air control.

 

[Rickb]

So again....

Have you checked the door gasket? When running when you turn the primary air down does the fire get really lazy and basically almost go out with just some wispy flames? Do you have a ash pan?

 

[laura bv]

I do not think single vs double is going to really change your burn time by much. Have you checked your door gasket? When you turn the air control from high to low does the fire go from roaring to lazy and almost out?

I don't either nor does the dealer. But that was one of BK's suggestions. It is a new stove. Gasket is fine. (I think). I almost can't remember as I need to keep it on high to get a little bit of heat. Although when the dealer came by to check it out, he at first he thought I was turning it too far, then after he saw how it operated he agreed "high" required it to be fully down (past the high as marked on the thermostat). If its on low it definitly goes out. On medium it goes down to lazy.

 

[laura bv]

I would try to stay encouraged. You have a issue but once corrected it should work very well. My 20 is heating my whole finnished area in my basement(about 750sqft) with enough heat left to keep the main floor around 69-70 as logn as the lows are above 20ish.

Your air leak is not in the stovepipe/chimney side. It will be in the box itself or the primary air control.

My first thought was that there was something wrong with the control. I will check with BK and dealer about that (but worst time of year to get any help).

 

[Rickb]

You should never have it on high really unless your starting a new fire or just added wood. On high you will burn through wood very fast and all your heat is going up the flue. Try to turn it down and let it run as low as you can go. With dry wood and a hot coal bed you should be able to have almost no flame and it will run for 10 hours that way.

 

[laura bv]

So again....

Have you checked the door gasket? When running when you turn the primary air down does the fire get really lazy and basically almost go out with just some wispy flames? Do you have a ash pan?

See below. No ash pan.

 

[laura bv]

You should never have it on high really unless your starting a new fire or just added wood. On high you will burn through wood very fast and all your heat is going up the flue. Try to turn it down and let it run as low as you can go. With dry wood and a hot coal bed you should be able to have almost no flame and it will run for 10 hours that way.

We have tried that with 3 types of wood. The dealer wanted me to try to get the core temp of the house higher so burn it on high until overnight burn. But of course I can;t do that unless I am stuffing the stove woth wood every 2-4 hours. If on medium or low it will drift into inactive in an hour or so. The pipe stat (dealer left one for me to check on temps) goes below 200. I'm going to attach some data for y'all.

 

[Rickb]

My first thought was that there was something wrong with the control. I will check with BK and dealer about that (but worst time of year to get any help).

See below. No ash pan.

hmmm..... Sounds like the automatic air control is not working right. I would call BK and talk to them. You can open the housing up and watch it and see if its working. Its a little flapper that opens and closes based on the temp to keep the stove from going out when running on low.

 

[laura bv]

OK, you woodstovers. Any clues about what I should do from the attached data?

 

[begreen]

If the wood is good, something is not correct with the stove or install. Has the dealer checked the cat to be sure it is firing up to temperature?

Let's start from scratch here and get some background information.
Roughly where are you located? 13' is short for a flue. This could be a draft issue. If so, the barometric damper should never have been put on the stove. What are your daytime outdoor temps?
How large is the total house? Is it one or two story?

 

[HotCoals]

Sounds like your draft is very weak?
Does smoke like to come out of the door when you open it to reload?

But yet you seem to say a load of wood is burned up in 3 hours and the room is only 70f?
You must have more then one issue to resolve.

 

[Rickb]

Sounds like your draft is very weak?
Does smoke like to come out of the door when you open it to reload?

But yet you seem to say a load of wood is burned up in 3 hours and the room is only 70f?
You must have more then one issue to resolve.

HC she is going through wood fast cause she has it on wide open all the time to keep the stove hot.

 

[laura bv]

hmmm..... Sounds like the automatic air control is not working right. I would call BK and talk to them. You can open the housing up and watch it and see if its working. Its a little flapper that opens and closes based on the temp to keep the stove from going out when running on low.

Yes. I have already called BK (Chris says maybe its because of single wall, maybe its because the pipe length isn't long enough, he talked to dealer, and he is sending a moisture meter, but nothing since). Dealer thoughts were to buy hotter wood and get core temps up. I will let this burn out today and try your above suggestion when I get back tonight. A little nervous about it, but I will try to open the housing and check it out.

 

[laura bv]

HC she is going through wood fast cause she has it on wide open all the time to keep the stove hot.

If its on anything less than a high burn it drifts into inactive.

 

[HotCoals]

HC she is going through wood fast cause she has it on wide open all the time to keep the stove hot.

I was just back reading again to try and get a grip on the situation and I'm at a loss.
From what you just said it sounds like her by-pass is not closing at all or not very well.
I don't know the stove or how it is built so i would not be of much help till I look it up I guess.

 

[laura bv]

T

Sounds like your draft is very weak?
Does smoke like to come out of the door when you open it to reload?

But yet you seem to say a load of wood is burned up in 3 hours and the room is only 70f?
You must have more then one issue to resolve.

The data for the draft (flu temps) suggest it is not a draft issue. This is wehat the dealer was trying to problem solve with his visit. We don;t think double wall will solve it.

 

[Rickb]

There was a good step by step on checking that thermostatic control but not sure where it is anymore. Im sure the guys from BK can walk you through it just to check it. Draft could be a possible issue as well. If your not drafting well it wont pull enough air in at low to keep the wood burning. Wet wood would do the same thing. When I am running on low I can actually here it clicking open and closed every once in a while.

 

[laura bv]

There was a good step by step on checking that thermostatic control but not sure where it is anymore. Im sure the guys from BK can walk you through it just to check it. Draft could be a possible issue as well. If your not drafting well it wont pull enough air in at low to keep the wood burning. Wet wood would do the same thing. When I am running on low I can actually here it clicking open and closed every once in a while.

Yes I do hear some clicking and was wondering what that was. Just wasn't certain clicking occurred when I was turning the control. Will try calling Chris again Monday morning but probably won't be able to get through to anyone til after the New Year.

 

[begreen]

Could you answer my questions laura? You have stepped into another person's thread, so we don't have any basic data on your location, house, and little on the flue or fuel.

 

[laura bv]

I was just back reading again to try and get a grip on the situation and I'm at a loss.
From what you just said it sounds like her by-pass is not closing at all or not very well.
I don't know the stove or how it is built so i would not be of much help till I look it up I guess.

I think bypass is closing fine. Dealer didn't think that it was an issue with bypass. My suspicion has always been that I have a funky catalytic or catlytic control. But....

 

[HotCoals]

I seen your data Laura.

Try this.
Next time you open the stove door close the by-pass to see if smoke tries to enter the room.
You should see a big difference.

 

[laura bv]

Could you answer my questions laura? You have stepped into another person's thread. We don't have any basic data on your location, house, and little on the flue or fuel.

- 95415 its in the 30's at night, can get down to high 20's, this week supposed to be in 40s.
- low ceilings, stove in ~400 sf room. 2 adjoining rooms both < 400sf that are 3 steps up (so thinking was no problem to heat them ), original owner/builder did an amazing job in the 50's with insulating it. 1 past owner's remodel has caused lots of drafts. I used plastic on old wood windows and weatherstripped doors, caulked up obvious holes. Other rooms are closed off and I have door drafts sealed. At most am trying to heat up 1200sf.
- flue total is ~13-14' has a cap
- fuel i bought was 1 year seasoned oak doesn;t burn hot. But I had a bit of older oak and madrone for experiments and as mentioned before dealer brought his seasoned oak which works fine in his sirocco 30.

 

[laura bv]

I seen your data Laura.

Try this.
Next time you open the stove door close the by-pass to see if smoke tries to enter the room.
You should see a big difference.

It get smokey in box when opened, doesn;t really try to escape into room.

 

[laura bv]

I have to be somewhere 30 mintues agao. Will check in when I get back late this afternoon. Thanks, saviors.

 

[HotCoals]

It get smokey in box when opened, doesn;t really try to escape into room.

ok.

So then when you close the by-pass with the door open smoke does come into the room?