Blaze king Sirroco 20 help

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Single wall is supposed to 18" to combustibles. Without looking at the manual, I bet the close clearances listed are when using double wall connector pipe.

If you move it out and eliminate the elbows, will your hearth pad still be in the same place? At most, you probably would only have to move it a few inches to maintain the 16" required in front of the stove.
 
The single wall at the closest point is 15.75"

At 15.75 inches you must upgrade to double-wall or shield the pipe. That pipe will get very hot with a hot fire in the stove. It needs at least 18" clearance. If you want to maintain the offset I would follow the manufacturer's recommendation and install a double-wall connector for proper clearances and better stove performance.
 
Yes, that is disconcerting. I would call them on the code violation. Does the pipe go through the attic? If yes, is it possible to get some shots up there too. Might as well look over all their work so include a roof top shot if safe and possible. (note that none of the fixes are going to clean up the stove glass. On low output BK stoves smolder internally but the cat burns up this smoke so that it doesn't exit the flue.

Where is the leak?
 
Whats the 15.25" the manual shows, is that for dble wall? Looks like its to the center of the outlet too.
 
I can see why the confusion. The clearance illustration and clearance chart are poor. The top view of the stove should not have the connector showing. As it is the diagram is confusing. Is dimension D to the front or center of the flue collar? In the chart, the difference between single-wall and double-wall connector should be unambiguous.

It also says: "Check with local codes and pipe manufacturer for pipe clearances. In Canada, 18” clearances from single wall pipe is required."

The same 18" clearance is required for US single wall pipe. Why the confusing statement and bad grammar? Proofreader needed here.
 
Yea, I gotta have them over again I guess. The leak was coming in from the inside of the double wall in the attic and dripping through the flue collar.
 
Post some shots here. We have found sloppy work hiding in attics.
 
Been emailing BK back and fourth (excellent customer service) and Chris laid some knowledge on me which is pretty cool

"There is nothing wrong with single wall. But in less efficient stoves,
single wall adds extra heat exchanger properties to your stove. There is so
much heat lost, capturing some of it and putting it in to the room is a
plus.

Your stove is vastly more efficient. You need to keep some heat in the flue
to create optimal performance. The more draft you have, the better the
stove will perform, within reason. Double wall helps you reach that goal.

Stoves are somewhat like high performance engines....you need to get air in to take advantage of robust horsepower and you need to get gases out to use that horsepower."
 
Dhide371, I've been hearing/getting emails on the same thing (single wall v double wall) and not sure I should upgrade or not. My issues are more complicated with respect to efficiency, though. Please keep us posted on your decision (as well as state of your ceiling).
 
So I've decided to call tomorrow and have him order the double walled pipe. A new problem arose today. I must be burning wet wood because at the bend in my pipe it looks like creosote is building up at the Seam that can't be good or right?! Top right and bottom seams.

(broken image removed)
 
there is alot of condensation when burning a cat stove cause the flue temps are so low .I d say thats what is happening causing it to run out of that seam.
 
But it seems to be thick and tar like? Just scared of a massive creosote build up considering i have burned for only 3 weeks with many hot fires in between. Shouldn't this leak back into the stove?
 
I'd guess that those joints are leaking air.

Can you pull the stove out from the wall for a straight shot?
 
I really don't want to resort to that. What if I used double wall. Would that help and or is it better quality pipe? I mean they make this stuff so it should work am I right??
 
I really don't want to resort to that. What if I used double wall. Would that help and or is it better quality pipe? I mean they make this stuff so it should work am I right??

Double wall pipe is recommended and should help.
 
So Laura I'm concluding that since I have single to double the reaction where the hot hot single wall meets the cooler double wall which is right above my joints is why this is happening. I ordered the double wall so I will have results after the holiday. Thanks for the help everyone. This has been quite the endeavor but I love this stove just gotta crack the code!

Happy holidays
 
I
So Laura I'm concluding that since I have single to double the reaction where the hot hot single wall meets the cooler double wall which is right above my joints is why this is happening. I ordered the double wall so I will have results after the holiday. Thanks for the help everyone. This has been quite the endeavor but I love this stove just gotta crack the code!

Happy holidays

I am still trying to figure out my issues with burn times of only 3-4 hours max. The problem solving guide link refers to
"Install a barometric damper and set to .06 " so I will be trying to learn more about that before investing in double wall pipe. Its the only item listed for "3. High Fuel Consumption" that I have not been able to omit. Neither BK or dealer mentioned anything about that so I don't know if it applies to my situation or not. I do not love my stove, I am not hopeful that the code will be cracked for its inefficiency.

I am hoping for the best for you and hope to hear of positive results.

Stay Warm
 
I


I am still trying to figure out my issues with burn times of only 3-4 hours max. The problem solving guide link refers to
"Install a barometric damper and set to .06 " so I will be trying to learn more about that before investing in double wall pipe. Its the only item listed for "3. High Fuel Consumption" that I have not been able to omit. Neither BK or dealer mentioned anything about that so I don't know if it applies to my situation or not. I do not love my stove, I am not hopeful that the code will be cracked for its inefficiency.

I am hoping for the best for you and hope to hear of positive results.

Stay Warm


What stove are you using Laura? If its a blaze king can you hear the thermostatic control click open and close when you turn the temp settings up and down slowly? If your burn times are short it means you have more air going in then you should.
 
Sounds like an air leak? I haven't had any crazy long burn times but easily getting 10 hours or more. That's discouraging. Maybe the wood? Last night I laid three small splits on top of hot embers and about 10 gross later this morning still had hot coals. That's impressive!!!
 
What stove are you using Laura? If its a blaze king can you hear the thermostatic control click open and close when you turn the temp settings up and down slowly? If your burn times are short it means you have more air going in then you should.

BK Sirocco 20. Not sure about clicks. There seems to be a click when it moves to middle position and it moves to last position. The only other suggestions I have heard is to extend length to >15' (from ~13-14') and/or to put in double wall v. single wall. (even though it seems there is enough draw per readings on the pipe).
 
Sounds like an air leak? I haven't had any crazy long burn times but easily getting 10 hours or more. That's discouraging. Maybe the wood? Last night I laid three small splits on top of hot embers and about 10 gross later this morning still had hot coals. That's impressive!!!
The dealer brought his wood that works fine in his BK Sirocco 30. I also had some old madrone. My oak is 1 year seasoned but doesn't burn as hot as either of those. Regardless, it still needs reloading about every 3 hours and I can barely get 70 degree room temp in 400sf and if I open door to raised adjoining room <400sf (which is bedroom) room temps don;t get above low 60's.
How do I check for air leaks? Should I assume they are somewhere in the installation of the stove pipe? I checked the flue above the roof and sealed everything again with Henry (tar stuff in a tube). Maybe I shoudl check again?? Would that not be something the dealer/installers check??
 
BK Sirocco 20. Not sure about clicks. There seems to be a click when it moves to middle position and it moves to last position. The only other suggestions I have heard is to extend length to >15' (from ~13-14') and/or to put in double wall v. single wall. (even though it seems there is enough draw per readings on the pipe).


I do not think single vs double is going to really change your burn time by much. Have you checked your door gasket? When you turn the air control from high to low does the fire go from roaring to lazy and almost out?
 
The dealer brought his wood that works fine in his BK Sirocco 30. I also had some old madrone. My oak is 1 year seasoned but doesn't burn as hot as either of those. Regardless, it still needs reloading about every 3 hours and I can barely get 70 degree room temp in 400sf and if I open door to raised adjoining room <400sf (which is bedroom) room temps don;t get above low 60's.
How do I check for air leaks? Should I assume they are somewhere in the installation of the stove pipe? I checked the flue above the roof and sealed everything again with Henry (tar stuff in a tube). Maybe I shoudl check again?? Would that not be something the dealer/installers check??
Yes and am so frustrated, discouraged, and disappointed that after all the research I did and effort it took to get this blaze king, it is operating so ineffectively and inefficiently. Thanks for all the empathy and thoughts and suggestions - it is comforting if not warming.
 
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