Blaze king disappointment

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Is the house 1800 on each level, or 900? How is the upstairs sealed off?
You paid 2200 for the King?
Is your house getting hammered by the wind? If so, in the old farm house with poor weatherization, the air blowing through may be carrying your heat out to keep the coyotes warm. ;) It's really easy to put plastic over old windows and seal up the doors with something like these, which screw into the jamb, and the door seals against the bulb. You can knock that out in a day...
[Hearth.com] Blaze king disappointment
 
I am a Woodstock guy and a 3M guy. ;lol
[Hearth.com] Blaze king disappointment
 
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His insulation must be pretty bad, he talks about the house routinely falling from 76F to 52F in the few hours after his overnight fire would die out. So Woody’s suggestions are very good.

But at the same time, he already clarified its 900 + 900 sq ft, with the upper half of that closed off. This 4 cu ft stove should be able to heat 900 sq ft for 12 hours with two windows open, I would think.
 
Woodheat , is there a Reason you are refusing to answer or acknowledge having tested the moisture content of the wood in the proper method suggested by at least 5 separate people ? You quoted ashfuls reply but didn’t answer again .the cat , chimney height , moving stove from brick wall , insulation , new windows , moving to Florida . Won’t change anything if your wood isn’t dry enough , ( 21% on the outside could be 26% in the center of the split ) and if the wood is cold you might be 25% on the exact spot the meter says 21 ! have you used known dry wood or compressed logs/ bricks yet ? And did you get more heat

Yes, I just haven't done it yet. It's out through the week (Tues-thurs) so I don't have to keep stuffing it. I'll grab the maul and check before I fire it up Friday after work.
 
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His insulation must be pretty bad, he talks about the house routinely falling from 76F to 52F in the few hours after his overnight fire would die out.
But at the same time, he already clarified its 900 + 900 sq ft, with the upper half of that closed off. This 4 cu ft stove should be able to heat 900 sq ft for 12 hours with two windows open, I would think.
Yeah, that's pretty bad. I might lose a degree an hour if it's in the teens with a strong wind, and that's with no wall insulation between the logs and wallboard, and other air leaks such as through electrical outlets.
Then how come your hand is purple? ;)
Is good to know that on top of all your abilities, also, you are color blind.;lol
OK, then what color is that alligator-skin stove-loading glove that you have on? I might hafta get me one of those. ;)
 
Oh it's bad alright. The attic has blown in crap from lord knows when. I've sealed up the main door which helped. Replaced 3 doors entirely which helped. The windows were upgraded, I'd say early 2000's maybe as they are double pane. I use the 3m weather seal tape around those.
I still see people heating TWICE heck three times more than the area I'm trying to heat with a King. Overnight if it gets into the low 30's like right now, it'll keep the house from the whopping 67 it got it up to, it'll keep it at 60 when I wake up rather than 54 or less with the Timberline.
 
Oh it's bad alright. The attic has blown in crap from lord knows when. I've sealed up the main door which helped. Replaced 3 doors entirely which helped. The windows were upgraded, I'd say early 2000's maybe as they are double pane. I use the 3m weather seal tape around those.
I still see people heating TWICE heck three times more than the area I'm trying to heat with a King. Overnight if it gets into the low 30's like right now, it'll keep the house from the whopping 67 it got it up to, it'll keep it at 60 when I wake up rather than 54 or less with the Timberline.
This is why people are suggesting your wood is the problem. Maybe it isn't, but firewood with too much moisture is the issue 99% of the time when someone switches from a smoke dragon to a modern stove. My stove is a modern non cat stove and it won't heat worth a damn or burn at all if I use poorly seasoned firewood, but that's mostly what I have unfortunately. I know you don't want the firewood to be the issue, since you cut it yourself and you need it to heat. This too I have had to go through. My wife and I solved this issue with a pallet of Bio bricks. They have around 2% moisture content and when mixed in with my marginal wood, it ends up being like seasoned firewood. We also bring in 200+ lbs of wood at a time cribed in stacks by the stove, this helps them dry out very fast. We can even hear the wood splitting and cracking when it's quiet during the day.
 
The attic has blown in crap from lord knows when.
Same here, 2x6 ceiling joists, blown in about 35 years ago. Lucky if that's getting R-20, probably less on old insulation. And my attic access and light fixtures in the ceiling need are no doubt leaking warm air out.
it'll keep it at 60 when I wake up rather than 54 or less with the Timberline.
Well, you're gaining on it. If I open up the air on the coals, I can ride those for a while in the middle of the day, but I don't know how well that works with the shield baffles inside the BK box. With coals I can hold the top and sides of my stove at 350 or better for a couple hours while making room for the next load.
 
This is why people are suggesting your wood is the problem. Maybe it isn't
Yep, check a big split at room temp, re-split and test in the center.
And as begreen said on the first page, you could probably use more vertical stack. You have to brace it above 5' out of the roof, but you can get a cheap piece of snap-together pipe from the farm store and try it first to see if it helps.
 
Yeah, that's pretty bad. I might lose a degree an hour if it's in the teens with a strong wind, and that's with no wall insulation between the logs and wallboard, and other air leaks such as through electrical outlets.


OK, then what color is that alligator-skin stove-loading glove that you have on? I might hafta get me one of those. ;)
To get those gloves you need to have stoves that give real heat as mine.;)
 
Well I think I may have found a small problem. In reading other BK threads, and looking at adjusting the thermostat from the manual, I decided to pull the cover off. That thermostat never felt right as the fire would sometimes die out at the halfway point if it wasn't loaded full. I'm not sure how open it was supposed to go. But I followed the manuals instructions using the vise grip and flat blade to adjust it and turn that screw. Well that screw was completely stripped off and would not tighten. Now I'm just going to replace the entire thermostat. Anyone know of a good place to buy one? There's a dealer 45 mins north of me, but they have to order it.
 

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Well I think I may have found a small problem. In reading other BK threads, and looking at adjusting the thermostat from the manual, I decided to pull the cover off. That thermostat never felt right as the fire would sometimes die out at the halfway point if it wasn't loaded full. I'm not sure how open it was supposed to go. But I followed the manuals instructions using the vise grip and flat blade to adjust it and turn that screw. Well that screw was completely stripped off and would not tighten. Now I'm just going to replace the entire thermostat. Anyone know of a good place to buy one? There's a dealer 45 mins north of me, but they have to order it.
I don't know if is possible to buy it from other companies. I think the only way to get it is through a dealer. Lets see if BKVP give you a better idea of what can be done.
 
Well I think I may have found a small problem. In reading other BK threads, and looking at adjusting the thermostat from the manual, I decided to pull the cover off. That thermostat never felt right as the fire would sometimes die out at the halfway point if it wasn't loaded full. I'm not sure how open it was supposed to go. But I followed the manuals instructions using the vise grip and flat blade to adjust it and turn that screw. Well that screw was completely stripped off and would not tighten. Now I'm just going to replace the entire thermostat. Anyone know of a good place to buy one? There's a dealer 45 mins north of me, but they have to order it.
Well I think I may have found a small problem. In reading other BK threads, and looking at adjusting the thermostat from the manual, I decided to pull the cover off. That thermostat never felt right as the fire would sometimes die out at the halfway point if it wasn't loaded full. I'm not sure how open it was supposed to go. But I followed the manuals instructions using the vise grip and flat blade to adjust it and turn that screw. Well that screw was completely stripped off and would not tighten. Now I'm just going to replace the entire thermostat. Anyone know of a good place to buy one? There's a dealer 45 mins north of me, but they have to order it.
This may be your problem...you will ave to order it from BK.
 
If the screw was "stripped" as posted, somebody has been messing with the thermostat. They are factory calibrated and cannot be recalibrated in the field. It is possible to adjust knob tension, but not recalibrate.

This part must be ordered through a Blaze King dealer.
 
As the BK crew often says about me, 'Even a broken clock is right twice a day." ;lol
Oh, yeah. This ain't exactly the Deep South.

Your climate:
View attachment 241206

Mine:
View attachment 241207

Wasn’t casting aspersions at you, Woody. But if you want to check my climate, use Allentown PA (like the Billy Joel song). I’m actually only 30 miles north of center city Philly, but I’m up more than 400 ft. in elevation.
 
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I’m actually only 30 miles north of center city Philly, but I’m up more than 400 ft. in elevation.
We are out of town also, about 200' higher. It's usually several degrees cooler out here, and breezier.
 
I have sliced, on the band saw 3 yea old css oak , Hickory, Honey Locust- to find that the 1/3 of the middle of said splits ( about 6" thick ones ) were still wet to point that you could observe a color difference . That kind of moisture in your stove will cost at least 50% of the heating BTU's just driving the moisture out. Let alone trying to keep your cat in the active zone. Oh, and the baseball bat sound of knocking 2 splits together don't mean squat moisture wise. I have an NC30 I can heat my 2200 ft home to 78 when it is -20 with wind howling out in the farmlands of central WI. Of course this home is decently insulated - not perfect - getting closer though. Used 68 gallons of propane Thanks Giving through Valentines day- whole bunch of cold records set in that time span this season.
 
I have sliced, on the band saw 3 yea old css oak , Hickory, Honey Locust- to find that the 1/3 of the middle of said splits ( about 6" thick ones ) were still wet to point that you could observe a color difference . That kind of moisture in your stove will cost at least 50% of the heating BTU's just driving the moisture out. Let alone trying to keep your cat in the active zone. Oh, and the baseball bat sound of knocking 2 splits together don't mean squat moisture wise. I have an NC30 I can heat my 2200 ft home to 78 when it is -20 with wind howling out in the farmlands of central WI. Of course this home is decently insulated - not perfect - getting closer though. Used 68 gallons of propane Thanks Giving through Valentines day- whole bunch of cold records set in that time span this season.
Agreed Hopefully he will test a room temp freshly split piece . I’m thinking he is just a few points over what the stovecan handle . My stove is able to handle anything regardless of moisture but it’s a matter of adjusting air accordingly . No cat to complicate things
 
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Oh, and the baseball bat sound of knocking 2 splits together don't mean squat moisture wise.
True. Some of them sound good but still have appreciable moisture. But I've got some Red Oak heartwood splits that ring like a bell, and you can tell by the heft of them that they are dry.
 
On the subject of burning "anything", as wood burners we have a responsibility to practice sound burning practices. If a stove can burn wet wood, you should go outside and look up. The greatest contribution to PM in the environment comes from the first few hours after a load of wood is placed into the combustion chamber.

Moisture is the culprit. Non wood burners observe smoke coming out of chimneys and form their opinions of wood burning on these observations. If you live in the country, lucky you. If you have neighbors, good practices are essential.

For less than ideal fuel, after loading, burn at a higher (hotter) burn rate for an hour or so until there is no visible opacity of smoke.

I often hear "you burn wood? But I don't see any smoke". That should be our goal!
 
The greatest contribution to PM in the environment comes from the first few hours after a load of wood is placed into the combustion chamber.
Agreed. But I feel like the claims that cats burn cleaner overall are bogus. We smolder them on low for hours and hours, depositing creo in the box. Then when we fire the stove high to burn in a new load, that creo is burned and goes out the stack. You can smell it. Even after you close the bypass and throttle down, you can still smell the creo burning for a while, and I think that cat has a harder time burning creo smoke than it does regular wood smoke.
I don't think the EPA PM tests factor in the creo since they are burning in clean, new stoves.
 
Agreed. But I feel like the claims that cats burn cleaner overall are bogus. We smolder them on low for hours and hours, depositing creo in the box. Then when we fire the stove high to burn in a new load, that creo is burned and goes out the stack. You can smell it. Even after you close the bypass and throttle down, you can still smell the creo burning for a while, and I think that cat has a harder time burning creo smoke than it does regular wood smoke.
I don't think the EPA PM tests factor in the creo since they are burning in clean, new stoves.
Sorry, they are not new. They are aged for months and months. Then the cat gets replaced multiple times during pre certification testing. The actual cat must also be "aged 50+ hours" prior to the tests. But the stoves themselves are not anywhere new. Creosote accumulation would be picked up as well and can be found on filters. Lab engineers don't want to sweep between tests for that very reason. The dilution tunnel dual train filters can pick up lots of organics, including stuff from firebox, dome area and stack.

I suspect creosote accumulation happens in all chimneys, regardless of what combustion design is upstream. Burning off these deposits would be a potential odor generator.

Woody...mentioned before, you ever get up this way, I would be honored to get you some time in the lab...even experts can increase knowledge base.
 
the stoves themselves are not anywhere new. Creosote accumulation would be picked up as well and can be found on filters. Lab engineers don't want to sweep between tests for that very reason
Great, now I don't feel like I'm living a lie. ;)
you ever get up this way, I would be honored to get you some time in the lab...even experts can increase knowledge base.
Well, I'm obviously no expert, but the lab sounds very cool. My wife's brother lives on Whidbey, so one day we may get up that way...
 
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