Blaze king disappointment
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Problem number 2 which thanks these members I would have never known about. Crash split with the maul 4 rounds. Came in at 24, 26, 27, and 21
Crap
Crap
Are those room temp readings?(not 52 room temp but 70).
If that’s room temp it’s not awful imo, probably better than 90% of the world not counting the people here. Burning the stove on high for an hour after loading should burn a lot of the excess out.Are those room temp readings?(not 52 room temp but 70).
I dont know.... In my stove the difference between 17% and 21% is amazing.... I dont think I would even bother with 24-25%
What kind of wood is it, do you know? When I was hurting for dry wood I stacked splits in the house and blew a fan on them for two weeks. Went from 25 to 21, but it was White Ash and it was split small...
True, stove won't get as hot, but 21 will work.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
You could probably get it down to <20% in about a week inside from 24-25, at least that's what I'm doing. Hardwoods would probably need more than a week, but spruce and fir don't.
2fireplacesinSC
Burning Hunk
I found I could dry out some 25-28% wood pretty quick stacking it near the stove. I kept a watch on it and hit it occasionally with the IR thermometer to make sure wasn’t getting too hot. Dried out very quickly and made some good burning. Started doing most of my preburn/next load stuff that way. Worked well.
2fireplacesinSC
Burning Hunk
I'm into the last of the wood from a stack of Red Oak where the cover blew off and it got rained on a few times recently before I saw it. A couple splits sizzled a bit but I started drying it next to the stove and it seemed to work pretty good. This might have more been surface moisture, rather than deep moisture as in green wood.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Not optimal, but not the end of the world. Mix it with a few compressed wood bricks or a little scrap framing lumber (8%), and you’ll be in the sweet spot. Just no treated lumber!
ratsrepus
Minister of Fire
glad you tested , start laying up wood for future seasons . As others have stated get a few days worth inside the warmer temps and lower humidity can lower 2-3% in a few days split any larger pieces and this will get you through the rest of the season , some locust, oak ,can really stink your house out if too wet so give any really damp stuff a day to air out before bringing in
ValleyCottageSplitter
Feeling the Heat
I didn't read through this whole post yet but just noting that I can't understand how the King could not heat 1000sq feet. While curing my Ashford 30 on high it was about 30°F out, several windows open most of the way and it was still about 80°F, maybe 70°F in coldest room in my 2400 sq ft. I started with 15% MC ash though...
Used stove, thermo lock nut stripped. I guess he's waiting for a part, but I would half-arse that thing back together and run it; There has been a ton of input on this thread, and to keep us hanging like this is inexcusable.
Used stove, thermo lock nut stripped. I guess he's waiting for a part, but I would half-arse that thing back together and run it; There has been a ton of input on this thread, and to keep us hanging like this is inexcusable.
That's the spirit
It took 6 pages and 20 requests but he finally tested the woodUsed stove, thermo lock nut stripped. I guess he's waiting for a part, but I would half-arse that thing back together and run it; There has been a ton of input on this thread, and to keep us hanging like this is inexcusable.
I thought it might not be too bad since the cat was lighting off pretty good...
Easy Livin’ 3000
Minister of Fire
You should definitely figure out how to move it away from the wall.
As I think about it, I feel more and more confident that you are heating the thermostat up more than intended by the engineers, which will close the air down and make it burn cooler. Let the thermostat cool as intended, and I bet you'll get a much hotter King.
This is assuming of course your wood is dry enough.
As an experiment, I'd find a small fan and place it so the cooler room air blows right onto the thermostat. Probably from about a foot away. Start the fan on low and pay attention.
Just went back and read all the posts. Thermostat malfunction, check. Wet wood, check.
Looks like the problems have been diagnosed.
Regarding the wet wood, split everything you need for the rest of the season smaller, get some pressed blocks and cutoff lumber, and store all the wood you just resplit near the stove with a small fan to keep the air moving around. Mix the really dry stuff with your smaller splits. You'll get through.
Just need that new thermostat.
As I think about it, I feel more and more confident that you are heating the thermostat up more than intended by the engineers, which will close the air down and make it burn cooler. Let the thermostat cool as intended, and I bet you'll get a much hotter King.
This is assuming of course your wood is dry enough.
As an experiment, I'd find a small fan and place it so the cooler room air blows right onto the thermostat. Probably from about a foot away. Start the fan on low and pay attention.
Just went back and read all the posts. Thermostat malfunction, check. Wet wood, check.
Looks like the problems have been diagnosed.
Regarding the wet wood, split everything you need for the rest of the season smaller, get some pressed blocks and cutoff lumber, and store all the wood you just resplit near the stove with a small fan to keep the air moving around. Mix the really dry stuff with your smaller splits. You'll get through.
Just need that new thermostat.
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maple1
Minister of Fire
The gasket is installed on the cat.
I'm not used to having to put dry wood in there as opposed to the Timberline. That's why I came here, to find out what would be causing the low heat output and the wood is less than optimal. I also don't have the means to store wood for a couple years until it's seasoned. It lays uncovered, stacked in the elements. Even with that "wet" wood I could still bury the cat all the way to the end of the active zone.
I'm not used to having to put dry wood in there as opposed to the Timberline. That's why I came here, to find out what would be causing the low heat output and the wood is less than optimal. I also don't have the means to store wood for a couple years until it's seasoned. It lays uncovered, stacked in the elements. Even with that "wet" wood I could still bury the cat all the way to the end of the active zone.
Easy Livin’ 3000
Minister of Fire
Just throw a tarp over the top. And stop whining. ;-)
Don't cover the sides of the stack, just the top, with a few inches of overhang. Plenty of folks do just fine getting their wood dry that way.
Not only will you be polluting the air if you don't commit to this, but you'll wreck your costly cat if you don't. Small price to pay for long burns, and a warm house from a stove operating correctly.
lsucet
Minister of Fire
I think and maybe i am wrong, but including with a dead cat the probe can/still reading high when burn rate is on high. After all, the heat from the fire is going thru the cat and effecting the probe. I think when burning at WOT the cat is just there doing what is intended " emissions " and it is not doing so so well due to the speed of the gasses/fumes are going thru " higher emissions and less efficiency " more if you have strong draft.
On my setups i noticed no advantage at full throttle after i bring them up to temp. from 2 o'clock on the dial that is my low setting, to 3 to 3:30, there is a big differences between heat output when keeping good emissions and efficiency but more important, staying warm.
. But you need good seasoned wood.
Yeah, but I don't think it will go as high as he's talking, like 3 o'clock. And I think he said he put in a new cat...?
lsucet
Minister of Fire
I know he installed a new cat. I was just giving an example. Also I think that is possible to get it hot just burning on high as mentioned before. Another details to take into account is, the probe from BK is not a real representation of an accurate temperature except for active/inactive zone info. We have been down that road many times here.
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