BK King or Kuma Sequoia

[Woody Stover]

Start stacking wood...In my climate with my species it only takes one year to season from green to great stove chow.

He's about 120 mi. from me; To dry Oak, you are looking at three years, maybe two if you have a lot of wind hitting the stacks. It's been wet here the last couple of summers as well, which doesn't help.
It won't burn as long, but you can have Red Maple dry in one summer if you get it stacked soon and don't split huge. Or find some White Ash that's been standing dead a few years and don't split big. Probably won't get as dry as the Red Maple, though.

 

[weatherguy]

Really? 3 years in Indiana, I'm more north and two years is plenty providing I dont split it in August and count that as a year.

 

[Woody Stover]

Yep, she gets a bit humid down here. Pretty common to stay above 50% in the heat of the day during the summer. Two-summer Oak will burn for me but I would take a hit in heat output. Like I said, out in the wind is better but there's a bit of woods between my stacks and the wind. Once the leaves come in I kiss the wind goodbye.

 

[begreen]

Yes it is a tear out. I’m in the process of knocking the brick out this weekend and have a bricklayer scheduled to lay a firebrick alcove in a couple weeks. The flue is 8”

What make/model fireplace is in there currently? Some fireplaces, especially some contractor grade units use a chimney pipe that is not the class A HT needed for a wood stove. Best to check that. Also, have you checked and compared the alcove clearance requirements for each stove to be sure they can be met in the alcove?

 

[DewDog]

What make/model fireplace is in there currently? Some fireplaces, especially some contractor grade units use a chimney pipe that is not the class A HT needed for a wood stove. Best to check that. Also, have you checked and compared the alcove clearance requirements for each stove to be sure they can be met in the alcove?

I called the manufacturer on the Sequoia alcove clearance. That’s the reason I’m going fire brick. I will meet the 8” clearance and 90+ for height. As for wood the property was logged 4 years back so I have lots of oak, ash, maple and have a lot of standing dead locust. I currently burn wood in the garage as sole heating source. I have plenty stacked and some for the past 2 years. I’m changing the flue to class A. What’s the best pipe to use? I’ve seen a couple different manufacturers. It will be going up a chase with 2x4 and osb brick exterior . The old unit used double wall 8” majestic. So it’s gotta come out. At least I’ll get to keep my cap!

 

[DewDog]

This is my scetch of the finl install basement and first floor. The alcove is basically just to run the flue up and capture a little heat to send upstairs. The vents will be on the left and right of the small gas stove on the first floor. I figured the heat would be split by the stove being half in and out of the alcove. Some would rise to the front and back of the header separating for heat transfer. I will follow all clearances so don’t mind my scetch being off on the stove pipe. Crazy or it’ll work?

 

[Woody Stover]

As for wood the property was logged 4 years back so I have lots of oak, ash, maple and have a lot of standing dead locust. I currently burn wood in the garage as sole heating source. I have plenty stacked and some for the past 2 years.

Those tops still need to be split and stacked for them to dry out. I would go after the Ash first, it will dry quicker than Oak. The Locust may be ready to burn if all the bark has fallen off. If you put the saw to it and see chips that are more brown than yellow, it's ready!

 

[DewDog]

Those tops still need to be split and stacked for them to dry out. I would go after the Ash first, it will dry quicker than Oak. The Locust may be ready to burn if all the bark has fallen off. If you put the saw to it and see chips that are more brown than yellow, it's ready!

Your right about that! The walnut I cut yesterday has been down for 4 years and off the ground. It weighed as much as it would green. Rain and humidity around here are huge factors. I’m good on wood I’ve got stacks scattered around in the woods that have been stacked for years. Ash is the main target hate to see it go to waste.

 

[begreen]

Those tops still need to be split and stacked for them to dry out. I would go after the Ash first, it will dry quicker than Oak. The Locust may be ready to burn if all the bark has fallen off. If you put the saw to it and see chips that are more brown than yellow, it's ready!

Take the wood talk over to the thread in the wood shed on this topic please. It's confusing to have this off topic chatter in this thread.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/regional-variations-in-drying-wood.174691

 

[begreen]

This is my scetch of the finl install basement and first floor. The alcove is basically just to run the flue up and capture a little heat to send upstairs. The vents will be on the left and right of the small gas stove on the first floor. I figured the heat would be split by the stove being half in and out of the alcove. Some would rise to the front and back of the header separating for heat transfer. I will follow all clearances so don’t mind my scetch being off on the stove pipe. Crazy or it’ll work? View attachment 241650

So far I am skeptical about this plan, but that could be because more details are needed and some pictures of the existing setup would help. The Sequoia needs 62" width minimum for the alcove. It needs 25" side clearance to combustibles, not 8". Is the current alcove 62" wide?

The L offset in the connector will be a potential problem. Much better to have the offset at an angle. That also might help with clearances to the connector.

 

[Woody Stover]

Mission - long burn time with sufficient heat output.

Take the wood talk over to the thread in the wood shed on this topic please. It's confusing to have this off topic chatter in this thread.

I didn't randomly start talking about wood, I didn't think. If he wants to heat 4K ft. with a cat stove, he needs dry wood...it's part of his "which stove" question, IMO, and I'm pretty sure he doesn't have cat experience. With new members, we have no idea how much they know about drying wood. As it turns out, sounds like he's in pretty good shape with his wood supply.
Your questions about the setup may be more important at this point...I'm just trying to avert future disappointment for him.
But point taken; I do more than my share of off-topic posting...I'll try to keep an eye on that.

 

[Woody Stover]

I'll just direct them to the wood forum in the future to keep threads on track.

 

[DewDog]

So far I am skeptical about this plan, but that could be because more details are needed and some pictures of the existing setup would help. The Sequoia needs 62" width minimum for the alcove. It needs 25" side clearance to combustibles, not 8". Is the current alcove 62" wide?

The L offset in the connector will be a potential problem. Much better to have the offset at an angle. That also might help with clearances to the connector.

I’ll get some pictures up soon. I have the Sequoia install printed out. I found on page 4 the optional areas diagram. I took the dotted area as masonry. The guy I spoke with at kuma said that 8” was the least clearance for any install.
I took that it meant I would have to go full masonry and not just a noncombustible sheet of fire board. He really wasn’t much help.... seemed like he didn’t want to answer any questions. I also need to get the brick layer out to see how much clearance he can give me. As of now without further tear-out I have at least 8” after the fire brick is installed.
I could get the 12” for alcove as in the instructions but liked the look of full masonry. Perhaps I misunderstood! I also though the alcove would make the flue run a lot easier.

 

[begreen]

Hmm, how much brickwork was intended to be pulled out? The view out the windows looks to be above grade. Is this area a basement?

I am wondering what is intended to be saved here? As mentioned earlier the chimney pipe may not be spec for a wood stove. One possible idea would be to have a mason just extend the hearth and put a rear vent stove on it connected to a liner up the chimney.

 

[DewDog]

Hmm, how much brickwork was intended to be pulled out? The view out the windows looks to be above grade. Is this area a basement?

I am wondering what is intended to be saved here? As mentioned earlier the chimney pipe may not be spec for a wood stove. One possible idea would be to have a mason just extend the hearth and put a rear vent stove on it connected to a liner up the chimney.

Actually the entire face, both sides to the drywall. There is a double joist each side for the header that was there for the last fireplace. After that comes out the top header will be tall enough for Sequoia clearance not sure on the BK. The flue, 30 degrees-now to the right corner and then up the chase. With new alcove I could then run new flue centered back and up. The old hearth I think makes everything to tight and is to narrow to meet any clearance. Trust me I don’t like the idea of all that being torn out $$ but if I don’t the stove would set out in the room somewhat in front of the stairs. It is the basement, its a walk out.

 

[begreen]

What is the distance between those supporting double joists on each side? That is the governing factor.

Before proceeding, carefully look at all options. This will be an expensive undertaking. I would not go by a verbal ok from Kuma. The manual says the stove needs 16" clearance to combustibles (with double-wall stove pipe) on each side and a 62" minimum alcove width to combustibles. Adding a brick veneer to the alcove sides does not change that requirement. If Kuma will provide a written document which provides a reduced clearance requirement that specifies the actual reduction and the wall shielding method that is required to reach that reduction, then it would be ok. Otherwise I would not go there. Same for any other stove maker. The BK King has a side shielding option which really helps reduce side clearance requirements. With side shields and fan kit this can be as low as 9", giving it a minimum alcove width of 51" to combustibles.

What is the distance from the current hearth front to the stairs?

 

[bholler]

Is that current structure supporting anything above or is it just decorative? If it is not structural just take it all out and don't mess with an alcove at all.

 

[begreen]

Is that current structure supporting anything above or is it just decorative? If it is not structural just take it all out and don't mess with an alcove at all.

Agreed. The brickwork looks like all facade for the ZC. Having a plan view of that area with actual dimensions and the location of the nearby stairwell would help.

 

[DewDog]

What is the distance between those supporting double joists on each side? That is the governing factor.

Before proceeding, carefully look at all options. This will be an expensive undertaking. I would not go by a verbal ok from Kuma. The manual says the stove needs 16" clearance to combustibles (with double-wall stove pipe) on each side and a 62" minimum alcove width to combustibles. Adding a brick veneer to the alcove sides does not change that requirement. If Kuma will provide a written document which provides a reduced clearance requirement that specifies the actual reduction and the wall shielding method that is required to reach that reduction, then it would be ok. Otherwise I would not go there. Same for any other stove maker. The BK King has a side shielding option which really helps reduce side clearance requirements. With side shields and fan kit this can be as low as 9", giving it a minimum alcove width of 51" to combustibles.

What is the distance from the current hearth front to the stairs?

Center of stove to staircase is 8’6”. I’m guessing to new hearth to be approx 6’. It looks like BK is narrowing to the only possibility .

 

[DewDog]

Is that current structure supporting anything above or is it just decorative? If it is not structural just take it all out and don't mess with an alcove at all.

If taken out what do I put in its place? I looked at rear venting stoves and thought about putting a cover over the opening. However I haven’t found a stove that supplies the btu output i need.
It is all cosmetic not structural.

 

[bholler]

If taken out what do I put in its place? I looked at rear venting stoves and thought about putting a cover over the opening. However I haven’t found a stove that supplies the btu output i need.
It is all cosmetic not structural.

You dont put anything in its place other than drywall and run the pipe straight up to a support box for the new chimney.

 

[begreen]

You dont put anything in its place other than drywall and run the pipe straight up to a support box for the new chimney.

I think he wants to keep the stove from protruding too much into the room and therefore to have the new support box and chimney still in the exterior bump out and chase. It may be possible to have the stove outside the chase alcove, but with an offset in the connector to the support box. This is much easier to do sitting down with a sketch that shows true dimensions and locations of the opening and the staircase.

Dewdog, it looks like the framing wood starts right after the brickwork opening. Can you post a picture of a plan view of this area with dimensions and maybe one that shows the stairs in relation to the existing hearth?

 

[DewDog]

I think he wants to keep the stove from protruding too much into the room and therefore to have the new support box and chimney still in the exterior bump out and chase. It may be possible to have the stove outside the chase alcove, but with an offset in the connector to the support box. This is much easier to do sitting down with a sketch that shows true dimensions and locations of the opening and the staircase.

Dewdog, it looks like the framing wood starts right after the brickwork opening. Can you post a picture of a plan view of this area with dimensions and maybe one that shows the stairs in relation to the existing hearth?

 

[DewDog]

View attachment 241818 View attachment 241817 View attachment 241816

Begreen yes I’m trying to utilize the chase. The steps aren’t to close for sure being the basement door is between the two. However there would be a small walk around to it if it doesn’t recess back into chase. I also like having functionality to the pre- existing. If this were a 100yr old farm house I wouldn’t mind it. Only opinion but if I can’t utilize the chase it will look like I only went 50% or cut corners. And yes maybe I’m annal but it’s all opinion. If I can’t ill use the alternatives.

 

[begreen]

It looks like a 48" bump out for the old fireplace. If so, that is a typical width. I'm a little surprised the chase was not insulated.

You might want to consider a BK Princess Ultra for that space. it will just fit in a 48" alcove.