At least once every heating season, I forget to shut down the primary air...

[Bubbavh]

It's very easy to top 1000 degree internal stove pipe temps with the Fireview in bypass mode because the bypass is located in the back of the stove and directs the flame right up the pipe. I've been over 1500 on occasion. The best thing to do on reloads is to keep your air at #2 or less, you don't need all that air and you will waste a lot of heat up the flue. The only time I run wide open is during a cold start up. It sounds like you need a higher rated thermometer, my Condar probe goes up to 2000.

Exactly, this might be a case somewhat unique to the fireview and some other cat stoves with the bypass. I've seen the results of air being left wide open for maybe 5-10 minutes too long, what would happen in the worse case where someone loaded the stove and then forgot and went to bed or left the house? somethings going to melt down. I know the easy answer is the stove operator should be aware and never let this situation occur, but human nature what it is....

Don't open your air all the way when reloading.
A better invention would be an automatic woodbox reloader... <-------I'd be the first one to buy one!!

 

[PunKid8888]

Everyonce and a while I will get a little distracted and end up with the 700+ Stove top temp. But right around that temp you start getting that hot stove smell as others have said. As for KISS, I think you are far from that. I like the spring loaded relay device. In a fail safe design you want the neutral position to be closed prefable with a spring loaded, and then design a way to open it.

 

[3fordasho]

Everyonce and a while I will get a little distracted and end up with the 700+ Stove top temp. But right around that temp you start getting that hot stove smell as others have said. As for KISS, I think you are far from that. I like the spring loaded relay device. In a fail safe design you want the neutral position to be closed prefable with a spring loaded, and then design a way to open it.

I pretend to be an engineer by trade, so this is KISS for me ;-) I hear you on the fail safe design aspect, if this thing fails the stove still works as originally designed. For now I think I'll take Todd's advice and just never open the air all the way up when a setting of 2 (about 1/2 open) is sufficient to start/char a new load and also not let the stove run away in bypass mode so easily.

 

[Todd]

Normal flue temps for a fireview at cruise is 250-300F.

I think we had this discussion before, but those internal flue temps are twice as low as mine and I just can't believe it's right. If that were the case the external temps would be roughly 125-150 and you could hold your hand on it forever. Maybe your thermometer got tweaked when it was pegged?

 

[Todd]

It's very easy to top 1000 degree internal stove pipe temps with the Fireview in bypass mode because the bypass is located in the back of the stove and directs the flame right up the pipe. I've been over 1500 on occasion. The best thing to do on reloads is to keep your air at #2 or less, you don't need all that air and you will waste a lot of heat up the flue. The only time I run wide open is during a cold start up. It sounds like you need a higher rated thermometer, my Condar probe goes up to 2000.

Exactly, this might be a case somewhat unique to the fireview and some other cat stoves with the bypass. I've seen the results of air being left wide open for maybe 5-10 minutes too long, what would happen in the worse case where someone loaded the stove and then forgot and went to bed or left the house? somethings going to melt down. I know the easy answer is the stove operator should be aware and never let this situation occur, but human nature what it is....

Don't open your air all the way when reloading and close the bypass when you close your door.
A better invention would be an automatic woodbox reloader... <-------I'd be the first one to buy one!!

This stove is a different animal than yours, we need to wait 5-15 minutes before we can close the bypass and engage the cat.

 

[Bubbavh]

It's very easy to top 1000 degree internal stove pipe temps with the Fireview in bypass mode because the bypass is located in the back of the stove and directs the flame right up the pipe. I've been over 1500 on occasion. The best thing to do on reloads is to keep your air at #2 or less, you don't need all that air and you will waste a lot of heat up the flue. The only time I run wide open is during a cold start up. It sounds like you need a higher rated thermometer, my Condar probe goes up to 2000.

Exactly, this might be a case somewhat unique to the fireview and some other cat stoves with the bypass. I've seen the results of air being left wide open for maybe 5-10 minutes too long, what would happen in the worse case where someone loaded the stove and then forgot and went to bed or left the house? somethings going to melt down. I know the easy answer is the stove operator should be aware and never let this situation occur, but human nature what it is....

Don't open your air all the way when reloading.
A better invention would be an automatic woodbox reloader... <-------I'd be the first one to buy one!!

This stove is a different animal than yours, we need to wait 5-15 minutes before we can close the bypass and engage the cat.

Sounds like the egg timer is the way to go!

 

[3fordasho]

Normal flue temps for a fireview at cruise is 250-300F.

I think we had this discussion before, but those internal flue temps are twice as low as mine and I just can't believe it's right. If that were the case the external temps would be roughly 125-150 and you could hold your hand on it forever. Maybe your thermometer got tweaked when it was pegged?

I've replaced the thermometer since it got pegged (yes that was not good for it). Last night was the first fire of the season, and I ran more air than usual- with it set at "1" it cruised at 400F flue temps, stove top peaked over 500F (no need for reload, not cold enough outside). I am sure if I backed it down to the usual .5 to .75 setting it would have been back to 250-300F. I do run the double wall connector pipe and can hold my hands on it no problem.

 

[Todd]

Normal flue temps for a fireview at cruise is 250-300F.

I think we had this discussion before, but those internal flue temps are twice as low as mine and I just can't believe it's right. If that were the case the external temps would be roughly 125-150 and you could hold your hand on it forever. Maybe your thermometer got tweaked when it was pegged?

I've replaced the thermometer since it got pegged (yes that was not good for it). Last night was the first fire of the season, and I ran more air than usual- with it set at "1" it cruised at 400F flue temps, stove top peaked over 500F (no need for reload, not cold enough outside). I am sure if I backed it down to the usual .5 to .75 setting it would have been back to 250-300F. I do run the double wall connector pipe and can hold my hands on it no problem.

I had mine burning last night with the stove top at 550, air setting just over .5 and my stack temps were holding at 500. Maybe it has something to do with you having double wall and mine being single wall pipe or more likely your thermometer is more accurate? Typically my internal flue temps run 400-600 depending on where the air is set. It will be interesting to hear what all the other Fireview owners temps are.

 

[firefighterjake]

I'm good for a few over fires myself, especially while watching a movie. I learned that my smoke alarm will go off when this happens, the intense heat at the ceiling sets it off. I have a small Quadrafire 400 that usually I forget about. My on pipe temp is around 700 when this happens I'm not sure what the actual working range is for this stove. I will do some research now though to figure it out. Oh the stove is in the corner and the alarm is in the middle of the room. Under normal heating condition the alarm never goes off.

Just a technical point (abeit a pretty nit picky point) . . . technically it's not the heat setting off your detector, but more likely it's the high heat burning "off" more paint, dust or what have you by reaching a higher temp that is setting off the detector's sensing mechanism since smoke detectors technically do not detect heat levels, but rather sense the smoke (or smoke like molecules in this case, steam's case from a hot shower, etc.) and go to alarm mode. The heat does play a part as heat rises and carries these air-borne particles to the ceiling or wall-mounted detector.

 

[gpcollen1]

I just use an egg timer. Seems a lot simpler.

I use the timer on the microwave for something just like this...

...and when i put a beer in the freezer...

Only a problem when the wife just shuts it off...

 

[firefighterjake]

I just use an egg timer. Seems a lot simpler.

I use the timer on the microwave for something just like this...

...and when i put a beer in the freezer...

Only a problem when the wife just shuts it off...

Beersickles just aren't as good, huh?