bakedpotato said:
SteveKG, that sounds just like something my husband would do. How did you prevent the pry bar from damaging the stove?
I had a plan for this, but when I got the stove, turns out the base is a continuous plate of cast iron in my case.
The plan had been to use a similar method but place a thin piece of scrap wood--1/8 inch ply or some panelling--as a cushion between the pry bar and the stove bottom. Once off the pallet and onto the blocks, I used another stack of wood ends to act as fulcrum for the long pry bar, plus an extra piece of wood between the end of the bar and the stove bottom. It sounds more arduous than it was. It would have gone much faster had I not been ill. It worked beautifully and was very easy to do by myself. It just takes slow and patient care and not dropping the pry bar or something and scarring the floor!
I have heard of people using appliance- or piano-moving dollies to do this, but that leaves one with the problem of getting the stove onto and then off of the dolly. For me, with no assistance, that would be a larger problem than the method with which I came up.
If you have porcelain or chrome or other nice [and scratchable] metal on the base of the stove, this will still work fine as long as you keep a small piece of wood between the lever and the stove so the bar never contacts the stove. If my stove had been like that [and I didn't know beforehand as I was unable to see one, except in photos, prior to its arrival] it would have been more difficult to get the crow bar beneath the thing, between the pallet and the stove, to get things off to a start. I was planning to cut out a hole in the pallet with a saber saw or chisel one out, if I had to do that, with a chisel and small hammer. Crude, yes, but I would need an opening beneath the stove large enough to stick in a crow bar with a piece of wood to protect the stove. I figured I could chisel out a hole beneath each end of the stove in maybe five minutes per. In my case, that turned out to be unnecessary.