Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
The burned trace on that board can be repaired,with a trace repair kit,or by using small wire.Older PC repair places have the stuff,and,lots of ham radio people could do it for you.
Alright, I give in..
- Thread starter KenofShelby
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
The inside of a cartridge heater is a wire wound element.If it is loose from the epoxy inside,it can cause a short when hot.
Tonyray
Minister of Fire
This is a long shot but possible that you un-luckly got 2 bad ignitors.....
I doubt it but not impossible....
I doubt it but not impossible....
I think I am going to check that ignitor tomorrow,,,OUTSIDE, the stove, by just connecting it directly to a fused,,,, 110 volt.. circuit and see if the problem repeats.?/
Well, If I check them both tomorrow with a 110v test circuit, I should find out, shouldn’t I?
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
if you use some solid telephone wire with just the tips tinned you can fix that easy. clean everything good and flux is your friend. after it is soldered use a q tip and isopropyl alchohol and clean the area of flux. then I coat the connections with clear fingernail polish. put an in line fuse to the igniter only way to make sure it dont happen again
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
I’ll take a look at it tomorrow,,,,not sure about my soldering ability,
Does it make a difference which of the two wires I put the inline fuse in?
Tonyray
Minister of Fire
If I counted right by looking at your board and using the wire schematic Ssyko posted the section that has damage is where the hot wire that feeds the igniter is attached to the circuit board. That’s the wire I would put the inline fuse in. You should double check to make sure I counted over correctly and use the wire schematic to verify it’s the hot wire for the igniter. Like Ssyko said previously use a 3 amp fast blow inline fuse.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Thanks, both SSyko and Wilson, you both help a lot. I appreciate it,,,Today I had to deal with computers issues, tomorrow is a work day,,, so Friday I can get back to the stove..... I’ve been starting it with a squirt of lighter fluid, and it runs fine,,, Gone back to ProPellets,,, surprised as how clean burning they are.
I certainly intend to put a fuse in the correct wire...
I certainly intend to put a fuse in the correct wire...
Finally going to get back to my Quadrafire,,,lost a lot of time last week dealing with cellular problems,,,some times AT& T makes me crazy, but they are the only carrier we can get.
Anyway,, the new igniter came with those stand plastic covered slip in connectors,,,, can I just put the matching connectors on the other wires,,,,,or is there some reason I need to use the old fashioned way with the ceramic wire nuts???
Anyway,, the new igniter came with those stand plastic covered slip in connectors,,,, can I just put the matching connectors on the other wires,,,,,or is there some reason I need to use the old fashioned way with the ceramic wire nuts???
Tonyray
Minister of Fire
Shouldn't matter at all. Just connect to the other connectors. My igniters always came with the connecting clips
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Yup, I got it, just figured out hat a fast blow fuse is a different size than a reg 3A, so back to the store for another holder.
Last edited:
Unbelievable....We actually have a Radio Shack dealer, of sorts, in our village...The lady there, showed me a choice of 3A fast blow fuses and holders,,,,better than I could find online....so now I’m set with that......a nice inline fuse holder.. And then to top if off she thinks the owner should be able to repair my circuit board...
Tonyray
Minister of Fire
This is probably a dumb question, but , hey, I’m a plumber, not an electrician....I am supposed to get my repaired control board back tomorrow.. What would happen if I put a 3A fast blow fuse in BOTH the wires that go to the ignitor?
Last edited:
With your stove I can’t positively say but on a Harman P-68 the ground wire goes to a vacuum switch and a buddy of mine put the fuse in in the ground wire by mistake and the auger wouldn’t shut off when the hopper door or the stove door was open. Not sure what safety devices are on your stove. If you plug your control board back into the wiring harness(before mounting it in the stove) where you can see both sides of the board with the stove unplugged you should be able to see where the repair runs to the plug and what wire it’s attached to. When Ssyko posted the picture of the wiring schematic it looked to me the part of your circuit board that had damage was where the hot wire to the igniter is plugged in. Post a picture of the board plugged in with the repaired side showing and maybe we can determine if that’s the hot wire. Just make sure you leave the stove unplugged so something doesn’t short out again. Wish you lived closer so I could give you a hand with your stove.
Thank you Wilson1,,,,I got the control board back today,, looks fine,,,I’ll post a picture in a bit. I should be able to figure out which wire is the hot one if it is the one that matches the repair......
Need to spend some time on it tomorrow.
Need to spend some time on it tomorrow.
![[Hearth.com] Alright, I give in..](/talk/data/attachments/243/243109-fa6ea3e60ed8be0900c10e3271cc0ab7.jpg?hash=1zIQ2JQzmU)
Now here is my plan of action:
1. No power to stove
2. Run continuity check on new OEM ignitor.
3. Test ignitor with 110v direct to make sure it works.....(Boy, did the guy at the hardware store get excited when I told him I was making a 110V test cord.)
4. Install slip in connectors on wires on ignitor and wires they connect to
5. Determine ‘hot’ wire from control box to ignitor
6. Install 3A fast blow fuse inline in Hot wire.
7. Once again, check all wires for any signs of breaks. (Already done this, but do it again,)
8. Slide control box in to connector box.
9. Plug in power to stove
10. Turn stove on....
Anybody have suggestions...??
1. No power to stove
2. Run continuity check on new OEM ignitor.
3. Test ignitor with 110v direct to make sure it works.....(Boy, did the guy at the hardware store get excited when I told him I was making a 110V test cord.)
4. Install slip in connectors on wires on ignitor and wires they connect to
5. Determine ‘hot’ wire from control box to ignitor
6. Install 3A fast blow fuse inline in Hot wire.
7. Once again, check all wires for any signs of breaks. (Already done this, but do it again,)
8. Slide control box in to connector box.
9. Plug in power to stove
10. Turn stove on....
Anybody have suggestions...??
Similar threads
