marty22877
New Member
It's identical to the one that was posted a couple of pages back. The screws dont screw in, you just kind of place them in there.
I wish they would start by telling the dealers to take them out if they're still in. I tried (unsuccessfully) to get my installers to remove mine.Just took the knock out plates out. Let's see how it burns. Spoke to my cousin (regency dealer) he spoke to regency tech just like JRD said( I think it was him) that regency said to take them out, the stoves leaving the factory will come with them out, they may also start putting the reduction played in.
It depends when you installed yours, my cousin just install one a couple weeks ago and he said they're already out.I wish they would start by telling the dealers to take them out if they're still in. I tried (unsuccessfully) to get my installers to remove mine.
Just took the knock out plates out. Let's see how it burns. Spoke to my cousin (regency dealer) he spoke to regency tech just like JRD said( I think it was him) that regency said to take them out, the stoves leaving the factory will come with them out, they may also start putting the reduction played in.
Really interested in hearing how this works out for you. I feel like it's hard to control the air on this stove without tinkering with stuff, i.e. adding a reducer plate, taking out plates, taking off washers. I don't know why the primary damper doesn't just give you control over the air from full blast open (i.e. as much as as you get in with the door cracked) to closed down tight.
It depends when you installed yours, my cousin just install one a couple weeks ago and he said they're already out.
These stoves are designed to pass the EPA tests, and I think that's done on a 15' stack. Some stove designs probably react differently than others as the draft is increased when installed on taller liners. I don't think it's realistic to expect an off-the-shelf stove to work perfectly in every setup; Tweaking is gonna be necessary to get what you want in most cases, I'd think.I don't know why the primary damper doesn't just give you control over the air from full blast open (i.e. as much as as you get in with the door cracked) to closed down tight.
That looks like it's burning under control, but maybe could be a little slower. Where was the air set for that burn? Looking forward to hear what you find when you get back...Just filled the stove at 7am this is video taken at 8:20am with temp of 1300. Will let you know when I get home today around 6pm.
It was fully closed.These stoves are designed to pass the EPA tests, and I think that's done on a 15' stack. Some stove designs probably react differently than others as the draft is increased when installed on taller liners. I don't think it's realistic to expect an off-the-shelf stove to work perfectly in every setup; Tweaking is gonna be necessary to get what you want in most cases, I'd think.
That looks like it's burning under control, but maybe could be a little slower. Where was the air set for that burn? Looking forward to hear what you find when you get back...
My understanding is that removing the plates reduces the venturi effect of sucking air through a smaller orifice. At least that was what I was told.I appreciate everyone taking the time to share information and to answer questions; I've learned a great deal so far and I'm looking forward to learning more.
I understand the restrictor plate, what it does, and what problem adding it helps to solve or alleviate. I'm confused about the side knockout plates though. If folks are trying to restrict inbound air, wouldn't removing these knockout plates allow more air in making their removal counterproductive?
Also, I've heard reference to "secondaries", and I'm thinking it's the flame from the bar in the top with air holes in front of the cat; correct? If so, how does one get better secondaries? I seem to get good flames when my fire's hot, there's plenty of wood, and the cat is bypassed. When I close my cat I almost never see flames from that bar. Maybe that's normal, or maybe there's something else I've yet to figure out...
By the way, I've now had two nights in a row where I've added wood in the 10pm hour, close the cat, go to bed, and wake at 6 with the blower still on. It's not 14 hours but it beats getting up to add wood. When I really pack the stove and there's not much room for air flow, it does take a long time for the cat to heat up regardless of how hot the coal bed is to start with. I also know too that my wood this season is a mixed bag - some is 15%-20% and is at least 2 years old (split at least two years ago) while other wood is mid-20's just purchased when I got my stove. The unseasoned wood definitely burns but doesn't burn nearly as long before leaving a heaping bed of coals for me to deal with. I'll just have to make do with what I have this year...
Did you get a chance to check the bypass and did you put a reduction plate? How many people are still only getting 3-4 hour burn time?My understanding is that removing the plates reduces the venturi effect of sucking air through a smaller orifice. At least that was what I was told.
Occasionally I get the secondary flames from that tube. I agree that when really packed the stove takes a very long time in order to get up to temp. Not good when you are trying to leave for work..
I wish I could get that kind of burn time you mention. I started up the stove today after letting it be idle for 24hrs. Still had very hot coals after stirring them up. No heat from stove of course as is always my experience.
Got it going really well, @1000F. Packed it full of wood at 3:30pm. Told my wife that she would prob have to add wood before bed. She laughed and said "yea right, more like at 7:00". I spoke to her at 8:30 and she said she had to add wood b/c there was nothing left and the temp was down to 350F. Yup, at 7:00.
I really wish I could post something positive about this stove and my experiences.
How about that if I watch it like a hawk, stay home and add wood every 3-4hrs it cranks out amazing heat.
Other than that, I've got nothing.
Bypass is fully functional. Reduction plate installed @3 weeks ago.Did you get a chance to check the bypass and did you put a reduction plate? How many people are still only getting 3-4 hour burn time?
Bypass is fully functional. Reduction plate installed @3 weeks ago.
I am going to stop commenting on this thread until I have something of substance to offer. I feel as though all I am doing is bitching about this stove due to my constant frustration. So, until I have something worthwhile to contribute I'm going to remain in the background.
Thanks.
Speaking of door gaskets, I removed my last set of washers the other day but got to wondering about the door. When the door is open there is a fair amount of play in the hinges. When I close the door I have to lift it up a bit before I can engage the latch and push down on the handle. It seems to be quite secure when closed, so I'm just curious if that's how everyone's door is? I'm due for the dollar bill test but my stove hasn't been cool in a while so I haven't gotten around to it.
What fan sped is everyone using? I've got mine set to Auto and Low. I sometimes switch it to High when the temp is way up, but that usually results in cooling the stove down pretty quickly. This is without reduction plate in and knockouts still in place.
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