800-850+ degree temps

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Update.
Just wanted to let you gentlemen know, I finally got her STUFFED full of wood the other night. One BIG round, didn't measure, but lets just say I had to persuade it through the front opening ;). Another large round (crotch)a lil smaller than the first but wider. But these two ate up the width of the Summit. And I squeaked a wide flatter 1/4 round on top.
Box was FULLLLLLL. LOL I got her up, shut the air down, and was good to go. Later, early morning, when the wood was all glowing, temp rose to about 700-maybe 750 at one point. But that lasted an hr I guess and then it leveled off about 600 maybe a tad lower. Glass although not sparkling clean, is getting cleaned by the hotter loads.
The creosote formation where the door was leaking is staying fairly well clean. I will be cutting all my wood to 16" lengths for now on. Anything longer is too close to glass and fogging it up with lite buildup. I have her down pretty well, not fudging with the thermometer, not messing with the air intake, Just get her hot, cut her back, shut air down, let her burn. Check the temp once in a while. I have come to grips that when the load of wood hits the full glowing coal log stage, its going to spike up some, nothing like the high temps I had before. I can live with that, just wear less while sleeping thats all ;).
 
Yep. That is that one burn everybody has to get under their belt with a new stove and flue so they can sleep better. I did the same thing New Years day. Loaded'er up and let'er rip and found that I could control it. As to the spikes, like Mike said about my stove "It ain't gonna split in half.".

Burn on brother.
 
Hogwildz said:
Roospike said:
BTW HW , did your Summit come with new upgraded roller ball door latch ?
Is your door handle wood ? is it black ? did it come that way it did you paint it ?

And what is the deal with this part of the door gasket ? < see pic >
I did notice on the lower part to the right of that part of gasket you ask about, the gasket is set back a lil more than the rest. So maybe when time comes to replace gasket, that will be improved. Although entire gasket appears to be making contact now, whioch before it was not on that end of door & bottom.

Yes upgraded design here. Wood handle painted black (came from factory like that). I kinda like the natural wood handle, but the black kinda blends in and doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. Yes it is a roller latch. Which in my opinon I can see wearing out rather quickly. Bit I hope I am wrong. It would have been cool if the roller had a set of bearings on it. Its basically a metal sleeve over the latch peg. What kinda lube you think if/when needed for it? graphite? I guess since it rolls it is easier than none.

My stove came with the old style wood colored handle and the non-roller latch. Do all the black handled stoves have the new roller latch?
Also, my door gasket doesn't have that different textured piece in the lower centre, it joins right at the lower right corner.

I think PE did a good thing by hiding the screw heads for the glass channel under the door gasket. This should keep them clean and less likely to seize in place, which reminds me I should have taken those screws out and coated 'em with never seize when the stove was newer. After 4 years they are probably starting to seize in place, oh well.
 
Jimbob said:
Hogwildz said:
Roospike said:
BTW HW , did your Summit come with new upgraded roller ball door latch ?
Is your door handle wood ? is it black ? did it come that way it did you paint it ?

And what is the deal with this part of the door gasket ? < see pic >
I did notice on the lower part to the right of that part of gasket you ask about, the gasket is set back a lil more than the rest. So maybe when time comes to replace gasket, that will be improved. Although entire gasket appears to be making contact now, whioch before it was not on that end of door & bottom.

Yes upgraded design here. Wood handle painted black (came from factory like that). I kinda like the natural wood handle, but the black kinda blends in and doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. Yes it is a roller latch. Which in my opinon I can see wearing out rather quickly. Bit I hope I am wrong. It would have been cool if the roller had a set of bearings on it. Its basically a metal sleeve over the latch peg. What kinda lube you think if/when needed for it? graphite? I guess since it rolls it is easier than none.

My stove came with the old style wood colored handle and the non-roller latch. Do all the black handled stoves have the new roller latch?
Also, my door gasket doesn't have that different textured piece in the lower centre, it joins right at the lower right corner.

I think PE did a good thing by hiding the screw heads for the glass channel under the door gasket. This should keep them clean and less likely to seize in place, which reminds me I should have taken those screws out and coated 'em with never seize when the stove was newer. After 4 years they are probably starting to seize in place, oh well.

Yeap, all the new ones are black handles with roller attached.
The screws arent any better under the gasket, due to the fact that the star head gets filled with gasket cement.
I will be replacing my glass after this season is over. I am going to try and lift the gasket just enough to get under it to get to the screws. If not, I'll replace the gasket. Whats yet another time? ;)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.