2021-2022 BK everything thread

[charger4406]

They can fuse onto the soft foam bk bricks and when you try to clean the clinkers out you end up taking chunks of brick. I’ve lost quite a bit of brick thickness this way.

Same here, I've had to change a few bricks in the Ashford 'cause clinkers
stuck/fused to the bricks

 

[kennyp2339]

3deg f this morning, princess chugging along keeping the house at 68 (upstairs portion away from stove) my question here it, Obviously since it really cold out I'm pushing my stove, which means I'm also loading to the max north & south, does anyone worry about loading and then having flames from the top portion of the fire lick the flame shield? I know that at 1500deg f the cat will start to become compromised, I have a stuffed fire box and def secondary flames which means I'm above 1100 deg f in there, with splits so close to the shield I have to be hitting the cat with super-heated gas along the way. Maybe I can better answer my own question if I have a probe thermometer.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes, I've wondered about that too. I often see the shield glowing when running high and full, and sometimes have flames behind the shield (slow secondary ones trolling in front of the cat). @BKVP said not to worry.

I guess the point is that even if the front 1/10" of the cat channels gets too hot, the bulk doesn't see those flames. Moreover, if you have secondaries in the firebox, there may be less fuel left for the cat to chew thru. So it's producing less heat by itself.

 

[stoveliker]

It's cold here... Outside, not inside.

 

[rdust]

3deg f this morning, princess chugging along keeping the house at 68 (upstairs portion away from stove) my question here it, Obviously since it really cold out I'm pushing my stove, which means I'm also loading to the max north & south, does anyone worry about loading and then having flames from the top portion of the fire lick the flame shield? I know that at 1500deg f the cat will start to become compromised, I have a stuffed fire box and def secondary flames which means I'm above 1100 deg f in there, with splits so close to the shield I have to be hitting the cat with super-heated gas along the way. Maybe I can better answer my own question if I have a probe thermometer.

Nope, never worry. Burn how I need and replace they cat as needed which is usually every three seasons. My cats have never crumbled or showed flame damage so I think your ok.

 

[charger4406]

does anyone worry about loading and then having flames from the top portion of the fire lick the flame shield

-30f here this morning, had lots of flames hitting the shield on the King most of the night,
shield glowing red the whole time, also did this to the Ashford for years, never hurt the
cat or shortened its life, who knows it may have prolonged it, only used two cats in 8 years.

 

[Highbeam]

Nope, never worry. Burn how I need and replace they cat as needed which is usually every three seasons. My cats have never crumbled or showed flame damage so I think your ok.

Same. The owner’s manual doesn’t say to prevent fire from occurring in the firebox. Quite the opposite, it directs you to let the load rip for an extended period of time. It appears that the flame shield was designed to protect the cat from flame damage which is not say that it prevents some flames from touching the cat.

 

[stoveliker]

The owner’s manual doesn’t say to prevent fire from occurring in the firebox. Quite the opposite,

 

[charger4406]

In this cold I tried heating this place with the King alone without the F600,
it managed for awhile but after 6 hrs the furnace kicked in so I fired up the
F600 again, pushed a load of hickory through the King in 12 hrs.
Ordered the fan kit for it, will be here during the week, should help.

 

[kennyp2339]

Nor'easter tonight and tomorrow, reloaded my inside stack with oak, ash & maple. Stove is dialed in, the storm sounds like its changing or challenging forecasters, my area specifically is going to be a mixed bag of crap, 50 mph gusts, 6" of heavy wet snow then transition to sleet and plain rain then back to snow.. other forecasters are now saying to be prepared for a colder solution.. who knows, but I'm happy to be ready, double damper for the winds and the first ot event for work of 2022.

 

[JKanor]

Well 0* last night and several days of single digits here in PA, it's safe to say my glass is plenty clean lol.

 

[Alex36472]

Hi guys, i've had a blazeking sirocco for almost 3 years now , sorry for the ultra long story , this really stresses me out because I really don't understans what's happening..


The first year i got my firestove i was burning 24/7 and i was sweeping every month well because my wood wasn't really ready to burn so it wasnt really good for the stove i know.. Everything went fire never got any problems.
Last year and this year I've had the same problem , i burn from time to time and when it's really cold like the last 2 weeks I burn 24/7. So last year after 2 weeks straight of burning i come home at 5 AM i notice my stove is still hot, but completly inactive, perfect crank it to high open the door I see blaze and everything. I put newspaper and some dry wood everything is ok. I notice the needle goes pretty quickly up and I hear some scratching in my firestove pipe (that can't be good) ok im gonna close the bypass and firealarm will go off for sure and yep. In less than 10 mins my firestove went from.fully inactive to active(12 on clock).. I touch the pipes its super hot(its as if it's been burning for 30 mins on high..) i know something is up because the firealarm went off 3 times even though i cant see anything so i lowered it to the minimum and it continued going up and basically consumed everything within 2 hours even though i turned it all the way down.. This year same thing after 2 weeks of 24/7 burning dry wood , i loaded the firestove the day before near midnight when i woke up at 10 am I opened the door to my firestove to see the base of the pipe to see if theres any creosote build up it seemed fine. I went to take a look at my chimney ok some stage creosote little spots not bigger than a dime cool its fine. 11 am touch my firestove still a little hot(completly inactive) high, see some blaze put some wood poof, alright . 10 minutes later i smell some burning im like not again.. And yep firealarm went off , put to minimum again, take off the wood in the firestove( never in 3 years was the firestove that hot) even though i emptied it , needle was still going up and after 1 and a half hour the stove was super hot. I swept the firestove pipe ok ya medium creosote build up, but how? I do exactly what they say always put on high for 30 minutes, after a few hours of burning i put on high again.. I was sure that the pipes from the firestove would mainly burn all that creosote since its always so hot there..
This year I noticed there was a wind noise coming at the base of the pipe connecting to the firestove. At first I was like this can't be the draft.. It was super high like when you hear wind outside blowing at 45 miles per hour..

If you guys could help me shed some light on this I would really appreciate it!
The problem occured twice when the firestove was completly inactive, im 99% sure if it was still active and i wanted to reload it that it wouldn't do that..

Well thanks guys! Sorry again for the long text haha

 

[kennyp2339]

Whats your definition of dry wood? What type of chimney setup do you have? The stove pipe coming off the woodstoves flue collar to the chimney, is it double wall or single wall.
To me it seems like your having an issue with flue gasses condensing because they are to cool and thats whats forming the creosote, this could be from multiple factors, wood that is to high in moisture, long single wall pipe run, excessive draft.

 

[jalmondale]

I can't speak to a blaze king, but I generally don't leave the air wide open on my catalytic stove for more than 10 minutes after a reload, and probably only 5 after a hot reload - I keep an eye on the flue temps, and once everything's solidly in the range for the cat, I dial it down and close the bypass. If yours is getting too hot too quickly, closing the air sooner might be an option.

 

[stoveliker]

So, I had a "stink event" here to this afternoon. I was sitting in the basement, stove in black box mode (Tstat about horizontal, i.e. more or less midway in the swoosh), flue temp around 450 F (don't know the cat gauge, but it was glowing - could see the light on the haze on the window). 2.5 hrs into a burn (of a "baby load" because the 16 hr load of last night was done, and I don't want to have to reload in the middle of the night, so I try to add as much as I need to get to a good time for an evening reload).

Suddenly a nice blue/orange secondary explosion lasting about 5 secs. Just one.
I heard a "tang" behind the stove when it happened. And after a minute I smelled some "smoke". I wonder if the sound is due to the flapper being pushed open from the shockwave.

I wonder how often smells happen because of this happening every now and then - and you need to be there to see it happen. If you don't see it, enter the room later, and smell something, then all the horror stories are remembered. One might start and smell the gasket with a cone and feel confirmed it's the door because one can smell something. But it may simply be back puffing that happened when it wasn't observed. The smell can linger a long time, especially if only convection spreading of heat is happening in the home. (My fan was off because I was on a zoom meeting.)

I've seen a lot of such beautiful light explosions, and heard the clang when it happened. First time I smelled something.

 

[Alex36472]

Whats your definition of dry wood? What type of chimney setup do you have? The stove pipe coming off the woodstoves flue collar to the chimney, is it double wall or single wall.
To me it seems like your having an issue with flue gasses condensing because they are to cool and thats whats forming the creosote, this could be from multiple factors, wood that is to high in moisture, long single wall pipe run, excessive draft.

Well my i splitted my wood last summer , i tried putting a tarpaulin on top of my wood since I dont have a shed yet(i know its not really ideal because sometimes it doesnt protect the wood from rain or snow..) my insidr setup if 3 feet of double pipe, then a 90 degre angle, a 45 degre one , then 1 feet of double pipe going through the fire connector? The square black metal piece thats on your wall, then maybe 18 inch thats going outside about 24 feet of chimney with 2x 45 degre angles and a rain cap on top.

Could a week of burning 24/7 really create that much creosote (lets say that its still wet wood for that scenario) that could potentially create a chimney fire? Because like I said my chimney looked really fine, but my pipes insides looked dirty.. Most of the chimney fires starts from outside or well i guess starts from inside but wouldve died out outside because there wouldnt be enough creosote to burn..
I tries to link a video that shows the draft but I cant.. So what would you do? Not burn 24/7 wait for the stove to be cold then start it from scratch? Like i said it happened twice when my stove was hot, but still inactive and i couldnt reload it in time when it was active. Im always scared this happens and whoever I call they can't give me an anwser, or simple won't care..

 

[Diabel]

Whenever I see the explosion in the VC within minutes Incan smell smoke. It does not linger for long (large space). I have seen/heard just a few of these from the Princess, never smell of smoke.

 

[Alex36472]

Well my i splitted my wood last summer , i tried putting a tarpaulin on top of my wood since I dont have a shed yet(i know its not really ideal because sometimes it doesnt protect the wood from rain or snow..) my insidr setup if 3 feet of double pipe, then a 90 degre angle, a 45 degre one , then 1 feet of double pipe going through the fire connector? The square black metal piece thats on your wall, then maybe 18 inch thats going outside about 24 feet of chimney with 2x 45 degre angles and a rain cap on top.

Could a week of burning 24/7 really create that much creosote (lets say that its still wet wood for that scenario) that could potentially create a chimney fire? Because like I said my chimney looked really fine, but my pipes insides looked dirty.. Most of the chimney fires starts from outside or well i guess starts from inside but wouldve died out outside because there wouldnt be enough creosote to burn..
I tries to link a video that shows the draft but I cant.. So what would you do? Not burn 24/7 wait for the stove to be cold then start it from scratch? Like i said it happened twice when my stove was hot, but still inactive and i couldnt reload it in time when it was active. Im always scared this happens and whoever I call they can't give me an anwser, or simple won't care..

Here is my setup https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xs4y7tv40vd2zv9/AAB4lmhyPW_4ebNjXR-8d_Q4a?dl=0 i have the video of the draft. It was some old photos because the company that installed it wasnt very professionnal, but now its "ok"

 

[kennyp2339]

I know that whistle sound very well! Welcome to the high draft club! Do a few loads of wood and then take down that horizontal piece of black pipe, check to see what the build up looks like if you havent cleaned it recently. Buy (2) pipe dampers, install the first on your piece that rises straight about 12" up from the collar, run it like that for a bit to see if things slow down, have the 2nd as a spare or incase you need an additional damper.

 

[moresnow]

So, I had a "stink event" here to this afternoon. I was sitting in the basement, stove in black box mode (Tstat about horizontal, i.e. more or less midway in the swoosh), flue temp around 450 F (don't know the cat gauge, but it was glowing - could see the light on the haze on the window). 2.5 hrs into a burn (of a "baby load" because the 16 hr load of last night was done, and I don't want to have to reload in the middle of the night, so I try to add as much as I need to get to a good time for an evening reload).

Suddenly a nice blue/orange secondary explosion lasting about 5 secs. Just one.
I heard a "tang" behind the stove when it happened. And after a minute I smelled some "smoke". I wonder if the sound is due to the flapper being pushed open from the shockwave.

I wonder how often smells happen because of this happening every now and then - and you need to be there to see it happen. If you don't see it, enter the room later, and smell something, then all the horror stories are remembered. One might start and smell the gasket with a cone and feel confirmed it's the door because one can smell something. But it may simply be back puffing that happened when it wasn't observed. The smell can linger a long time, especially if only convection spreading of heat is happening in the home. (My fan was off because I was on a zoom meeting.)

I've seen a lot of such beautiful light explosions, and heard the clang when it happened. First time I smelled something.

I can create this situation by closing therm to far, to soon on a fresh load. Heavy off gassing is still happening, and it decides it's time to get with the program. Bingo. Explosive ignition and smell. Really a very rare event anymore! This may or may not be the case in your situation. Just saying.

 

[stoveliker]

I can create this situation by closing therm to far, to soon on a fresh load. Heavy off gassing is still happening, and it decides it's time to get with the program. Bingo. Explosive ignition and smell. Really a very rare event anymore! This may or may not be the case in your situation. Just saying.

Yes, I can too.
This case was after the box had been black for at least an hour and a half. (Hence my surprise - maybe a windgust in combination with a slight Tstat movement due to slow temp changes made the circumstances just right. Or wrong, depending on your view.)

 

[BradyBunch]

Hello! Newbie here, trying to decide which wood stove to purchase for our new build currently in progress. BK Chinook 30 is one of our top two choices, next to the PE Neo 2.5. The BK Chinook would qualify for the tax credit, but I can't find anywhere on their site or in this forum about whether or not the top gets hot enough to cook on? This is a deal breaker for us if not, since we really want the option to cook on it in an emergency. Are there any Chinook owners who can verify this for me? I called the company last week and left a message but haven't heard back yet. Thanks!

 

[begreen]

I think the Chinook's top is a convection top and not the actual stove top. It is going to be cooler than most stovetops. Maybe the Princess would be a better solution for cooking? The Neo 2.5 is a similar design. For cooking, the PE Alderlea series is much better.

 

[BradyBunch]

Awesome. I think you're right from everything I'm seeing. We love the Neo but will have to decide if it's worth missing out on the tax credit. Thanks so much!

 

[TheElementalCashew]

Whenever I see the explosion in the VC within minutes Incan smell smoke. It does not linger for long (large space). I have seen/heard just a few of these from the Princess, never smell of smoke.

Yeah, my old VC would lift the griddle up sometimes when it would back puff. I have actually observed the Princess back puff a couple time, hard enough to where it pushed a small puff out of the flue collar, but that was more operator error when I was learning to use the stove. I can regularly observe the "explosion" during lower burns, but it is normally very slow and lazy, and often corresponds to wind gusts.