2018/19 VC Owners Thread

[frased]

Looks like I will have to re-gasket my doors.

The bottom length was coming off on its own with factory cement.

I made the mistake of repairing with too much cement. Now the gasket is like rock. Oh well.

Guess I should do both doors.

My guess is if factory cement didn’t hold there it’s probably going to continue in other areas.

I have the kit. You guys mentioned dremel is great for removing old cement.

Can you guys tell me if I have these right? From the kit... the lengths do not match the “materials included” lengths...

 

[RandyBoBandy]

It looks right. From the pic at least. The piece just next to your glass rope is the ash pan door I’m presuming.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Take the doors off it’s easier that way. Plus do the glass while you are at it. Dremel with the kind of cone shaped grinding stone is what I use. Than wipe down the channels with a little mineral spirits to clean all the dust out. If you are using the Rutland gasket cement in a tube than kneed it really good. If you don’t it comes out in different consistencys making it difficult to achieve a uniform bead. I also dampen the rope slightly being careful not to stretch the rope out. Don’t twist the rope either. If I’m correct the Rutland cement says you can start a fire after two hours. Good luck.

 

[Diabel]

My griddle gasket is telling me it is retiring. I will be cleaning the pipe next week, might as well replace the gasket.

 

[CTwith3]

Anyone? Can someone check their door hinge pins for me when their stove isn’t too hot?

 

[Diabel]

Anyone? Can someone check their door hinge pin?

I missed the original question

 

[CTwith3]

I’m still trying to figure out the air leak from the bottom of my right door.
Which way do the door hinge pins go in? It looks like the fatter end is what the bottom of the door turns on, and the top pin has a space for the larger end of the pin inside the door so that you have the skinny end of the door pin at the top unlike the fatter end at the bottom. Is this correct?

 

[CTwith3]

Looks like I will have to re-gasket my doors.

The bottom length was coming off on its own with factory cement.

I made the mistake of repairing with too much cement. Now the gasket is like rock. Oh well.

Guess I should do both doors.

My guess is if factory cement didn’t hold there it’s probably going to continue in other areas.

I have the kit. You guys mentioned dremel is great for removing old cement.

Can you guys tell me if I have these right? From the kit... the lengths do not match the “materials included” lengths...

Please post a pic of which way the hinge pins come out of the doors for me,

 

[Diabel]

Not sure about the 2040 but all the previous models, the pin is fixed to the bottom of the door. You lift the door up to remove it. Do it gently so you don’t bend or break the pin. Not sure if this answers your question.

 

[Kevin Weis]

The 2040 the pins are separate and are held in place by a plate and two screws I believe. I had to adjust mine to make the door latch proper when I got it.

 

[jimmol]

I could not find this thread earlier but am reposting here since more of you know VC stoves.

This year I rebuilt my Winterwarm small for the second time replacing the fireback, damper housing, throat hood and Refractory Assembly. Added 3/8" new gasket from a kit to the same pieces. I did tighten, using a socket, as much as I could.
There is a gap between my Refractory and the damper housing about a key width wide.

Is this normal?

Has anyone ever looked to see if there was a gap? (I did not look last time.)

This first picture is looking down from where the pipe goes out of the top. The other two pictures of the sides seem to show the gasket has good contact.

Looking at the sides pictures - the one where the damper housing is going to the right is the right side, one going to the left the left side - does it look at though the damper housing is lining up correctly with the stove?
Or does it appear to be down a bit?

If this is not right, any ideas on how to correct it would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jim Mol

 

[Dobish]

Please post a pic of which way the hinge pins come out of the doors for me,

I had a heck of a time getting my door adjusted properly. Pins should go like this if I remember correctly (#72)

 

[Kevin Weis]

Does anyone know what the thermocoupler probe diameter is for the Auber AT100? The VC probe has a diameter of 3/16. Just wondering if its the same or not. Guess I can find that spec on they're website? Also can someone say what model probe should be used to match the thermometer. Going to try to get this done by February when its been scheduled for a sweep.

 

[Dobish]

Does anyone know what the thermocoupler probe diameter is for the Auber AT100? The VC probe has a diameter of 3/16. Just wondering if its the same or not. Guess I can find that spec on they're website? Also can someone say what model probe should be used to match the thermometer. Going to try to get this done by February when its been scheduled for a sweep.

K type high temperature thermocouple for heat treatment***
4MM OD
Probe Length Option: 6 (150 mm)
Connector Option: Spade connector Pr
Item# WRNK-191

 

[Kevin Weis]

Dobish, thanks!

 

[Dobish]

Dobish, thanks!

no problem. I had ordered the mini connector but then had to completely take it apart and rewire it anyway. Spade connector will be much easier to remove the ends of!

 

[Kevin Weis]

Not to complicate things but Condar makes a cat thermometer I've seen on ebay but its probe is 1/4" and would mean drilling existing hole a little bigger which isn't all that big a deal I guess but also mentions that it reads out only in 50 degree increments I believe, but that may be only in the low range, not sure. Thoughts? Anybody have/use any of these?

 

[Dobish]

Not to complicate things but Condar makes a cat thermometer I've seen on ebay but its probe is 1/4" and would mean drilling existing hole a little bigger which isn't all that big a deal I guess but also mentions that it reads out only in 50 degree increments I believe, but that may be only in the low range, not sure. Thoughts? Anybody have/use any of these?

you won't be upset with the auber. the ability to have the alarms and fine tune the calibration are well worth it.

 

[Diabel]

Not to complicate things but Condar makes a cat thermometer I've seen on ebay but its probe is 1/4" and would mean drilling existing hole a little bigger which isn't all that big a deal I guess but also mentions that it reads out only in 50 degree increments I believe, but that may be only in the low range, not sure. Thoughts? Anybody have/use any of these?

What Dobish said I will second.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Not to complicate things but Condar makes a cat thermometer I've seen on ebay but its probe is 1/4" and would mean drilling existing hole a little bigger which isn't all that big a deal I guess but also mentions that it reads out only in 50 degree increments I believe, but that may be only in the low range, not sure. Thoughts? Anybody have/use any of these?

Im not into brand bashing so I'm not going to say what other thermocouple I was using. Go with the AT100..
2xs what Dobish said ...

 

[RandyBoBandy]

I could not find this thread earlier but am reposting here since more of you know VC stoves.

This year I rebuilt my Winterwarm small for the second time replacing the fireback, damper housing, throat hood and Refractory Assembly. Added 3/8" new gasket from a kit to the same pieces. I did tighten, using a socket, as much as I could.
There is a gap between my Refractory and the damper housing about a key width wide.

Is this normal?

Has anyone ever looked to see if there was a gap? (I did not look last time.)

This first picture is looking down from where the pipe goes out of the top. The other two pictures of the sides seem to show the gasket has good contact.

Looking at the sides pictures - the one where the damper housing is going to the right is the right side, one going to the left the left side - does it look at though the damper housing is lining up correctly with the stove?
Or does it appear to be down a bit?

If this is not right, any ideas on how to correct it would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jim Mol

You are probably the only winterwarm guy here Everyone in here is mainly running a defiant or encore. @defiant3 , @begreen , or@bhollar would be the 3 that I can think of that can help you.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Not to complicate things but Condar makes a cat thermometer I've seen on ebay but its probe is 1/4" and would mean drilling existing hole a little bigger which isn't all that big a deal I guess but also mentions that it reads out only in 50 degree increments I believe, but that may be only in the low range, not sure. Thoughts? Anybody have/use any of these?

Auber AT100 all the way. I have had the condar. There is a reason I switched. I am still using the condar probe though. It’s shorter and I already owned it so no reason to buy the Auber probe.

 

[Kevin Weis]

I'll ordering the Auber AT100 and the WRNK-191 probe this weekend hopefully. Chimney gets swept on Feb. 1st and will be installed then (if it arrives by then). Thanks to all who gave guidance to me on this.

 

[frased]

I'll ordering the Auber AT100 and the WRNK-191 probe this weekend hopefully. Chimney gets swept on Feb. 1st and will be installed then (if it arrives by then). Thanks to all who gave guidance to me on this.

I ordered the version that has 2 displays... it’s awesome have 1 in the bedroom for at night.

 

[frased]

I had a heck of a time getting my door adjusted properly. Pins should go like this if I remember correctly (#72)
View attachment 237712

Good thing I’m doing my door gaskets. They literally peeled off with minimal effort! The original cement had just broken down from age. And the gaskets had permanently formed from sitting.

New gaskets and cement will be so much better.

Door alignment I can tell is going to be painful though.