Durantefarm
Member
can you guys help me understand how i will clean out my pipe on my VC Montpelier when the time comes? i dont know how i will be able to access the pipe from inside to clean out off the creosote . thx in advance
I don’t think there is are any Montpelier owners in this thread. Mostly encores and defiantsI would love to hear from Montpelier owners what are your likes and dislikes? Also, how long have you owned it and have you had to do any repairs or is it showing any signs of wear and tear outside of the norm?
It’s possible you shut down the primary to fast or in to big of a bite. I can experience this from time to time. Especially when the outside temp is 30 or above.Recently when I had the primary almost closed it apparently got starved for air and back puffed.
You might have the newest stove on the block. So you are going to have to educate us!!Hi all, I posted another thread on this forum a few days ago regarding a new VC Encore I bought last month but was actually made about a year ago in February of 17'. Problem was the access panel apparently is to small whereby it nearly falls out into the stove. This leave near a 1/4" gap at the Top. Is this right? Dealer says it shouldn't affect the operation of the stove but I'm not so sure. My take is during normal operation all smoke/gases should pass underneath the access panel not some at the top, right? This panel is apparently the thicker version made due to breaking problems the thinner panels had previously according to the dealer. Anyone else here have/had this problem? Saw one review posted on a stove dealers webpage regarding a similar issue but that's it. Maybe just my dumb luck. It's been a year since the stove was built so maybe they fit better now. Sorry about hijacking this thread on this but this seemed to be a better thread for VC issues. Regards, Kevin
You might want to ask this question in the regular forum. I don’t think there are many if any insert burners in this thread. And I don’t know how much the resident professionals stop by in this thread either.can you guys help me understand how i will clean out my pipe on my VC Montpelier when the time comes? i dont know how i will be able to access the pipe from inside to clean out off the creosote . thx in advance
Kinda seems rediculous that he whould have to do this on a brand new unit. Shouldn’t this have been caught at the factory or by the dealer before he sold it to the consumer?Kevin, see if you can tuck a piece of gasket material under the lowrer edge of the cover to raise it up slightlyso it better engages the holder thingy at the top. The real fix for this would be to replace either the cover , the lower refractory, or both. Should be a warranty item, good luck with that.
That 3 1/2’ section is definitely not helping. How tall is your chimney and is it lined? If it’s lined is it insulated?definat3, I was going to do that or put some gasket material on both ledges at the bottom that it sits on that would raise it up further. I still may do that or as you mention putting the gasket material at the top. But RandyBoBandy is right as well. However when I went back to talk to the dealer about it, he wasn't inclined to say it should be replaced until if/when it would actually fall forward onto the grate. He said the gap it creates at the top for not fitting more snug should not affect the performance. I'm not so sure about that as I said in another post here on this. In diagrams I've seen on the airflow when the damper is closed, it seems it would make a difference. At least in the combustion chamber behind it. Mind you though I'm not using the catalyst mode. I've ordered another newer panel to see if there is a difference in the way it fits. They're not too expensive, $80-$90 so I'm giving that a shot. Otherwise only issue is when I top load smoke still comes out of the top when loading with the damper open as required. I think my chimney needs cleaning out so that may be the culprit with this issue. I don have a 3 1/2 foot horizontal run before it goes into the chimney so that probably doesn't help either. Regards, Kevin
Is your liner insulated?Chimney is about 20' vertical above the horizontal section. It is 8'' masonry with 6" stainless steel corrugated liner that was put in about 4 years ago. Chimney is about 25 years old. The horizontal 6" clay thimble though the chimney is about 1 1/2 in itself. Yes the chimney is about 1 1/2 feet thick there. The inside face of the chimney is the inside wall of the house there. The chimney otherwise is an outside chimney. There is no insulation really unless you count the inch or between the stainless steel liner and the 8" square clay flue. There is practically no way to eliminate the horizontal section save maybe to put two 45's in in place of the 90?. That would mean putting a 45 right off the stove collar a short strait section and another 45 into the chimney thimble. Maybe that is the way to go with it. I'll try to get a picture on here. I'm a newby here so I'll have to figure that out. Kevin
Just about every sweep and installer on this forum is going to tell you there should be insulation between the liner and clay tile. Weather or not insulation will fit between a 6” liner and an 8” clay tile I don’t know. Hopefully a pro can chime in. @begreen.The liner itself is not. It is single layer corrugated stainless steel. There may be some insulating material between the stainless steel liner and the clay masonry though but not positive of that. Actually it will be cleaned in the near future by the sweep that also installed the stainless steel liner so I'll ask him then. Kevin
I’m going to say yes. Two 45’s are better than a 90.My last post also begs the question are two 45's better than one 90 to get the pipe to the chimney. This would make 18" of a dead horizontal section 45 instead. This on the face of it would seem to provide for a better draft, but would it really? I'm thinking the strait section that would be 45 instead of horizontal would make the draft better overall.
Kevin, see if you can tuck a piece of gasket material under the lowrer edge of the cover to raise it up slightlyso it better engages the holder thingy at the top. The real fix for this would be to replace either the cover , the lower refractory, or both. Should be a warranty item, good luck with that.
44 degrees is not helping you out. 6” sould be fine, I think you only need the 8” if you plan on burning with the doors open. Start with the replacing the 90 with 45’s and report back. Did you have your chimney cleaned yet?Okay, it still back puffs some. This seems to be when the fire is in a stage where the wood that's left in seems to turning into charcoal. But opening the air intake more or cutting it back seems to take care of it. My only take is that it's a draft issue with set up of the chimney? Will be removing about 8" of horizontal stove pipe altogether and replacing it a 45 section. What horizontal is left woul be about 28" max. Hope this helps. Maybe the stove is just to big for this 6" flue? I can see when the gases ignite in the stove causing the puff back. Any advise on or other than the above much appreciated. It's 44 out today. That probably doesn't help. Kevin
Agreed. Has been running well last couple days. Draft seems okay now, colder out. The two 45's will go in the end of April. Think that will do it. Think burning too small/dry wood isn't helping either. Some of that is gassing off very quickly after putting it in the stove. Think next thing will purchase of moisture meter. Noticed a little trick in getting the fire going quickly is to crack the ash door for half a minute. It practically explodes into flames when I do that. Appreciate all the advise. Kevin
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