oldbluedeer
New Member
A pencil works pretty good, and I can easily erase itAgree. I put little pieces of painters tape on mine to mark the clock positions so at least I have a reference point on the dial for my burns
A pencil works pretty good, and I can easily erase itAgree. I put little pieces of painters tape on mine to mark the clock positions so at least I have a reference point on the dial for my burns
Yup, that’s exactly what i’ve doneJust use the clock method. 3:00 is horizontal. 12:00 is vertical up. 6:00 is vertical- straight down. Everyone can use it.
I have numbers on mine but can't see them, I have an alcove install.
I know you are just trying to get folks all riled up...Why does your bk have numbers? Mine doesn't have numbers... I think numbers would be better
If there’s still wood in there that’s at or near the coaling stage, I just turn up the stat. I’ve always operated this way with no issues at all. There’s really no wood left to smoke, so it won’t clog up your cat. When you run that low it happens, doesn’t mean anything about your draft or your wood necessarily.will do this, but without the reload as that was the scenario: when I don’t need/want to reload but there’s still some action in there.
I know you are just trying to get folks all riled up...
It just blows me away that people are so hung up on these stupid numbers! After having both the numbers and the “swoosh” I could give a rats ass about the numbers! If you can’t remember what posistion to turn the dial that works good for the given temperature desired, maybe you shouldnt burn wood? These stoves are so predictable it may as well be a furnace, the same results day after day. I sure don’t need a number to tell me if its on high medium or low...
Ohh, I remember all too well. I’ll drink to that!I think it was the 2015 thread in which the swoosh just would not go away. There were petitions for retrofit stickers with numbers, and for every cry of "it doesn't matter because no two installs are the same", there were four posts asking for factory calibrated burn time stickers.... every "you don't have the same wood as the factory calibration guy" was met with "if I buy a used stove on ebay, will it have numbers?".
Bretheren, let us remember. (Because it makes us need a drink, and that's all good.)
Ohh, I remember all too well. I’ll drink to that!
I know you are just trying to get folks all riled up...
It just blows me away that people are so hung up on these stupid numbers! After having both the numbers and the “swoosh” I could give a rats ass about the numbers! If you can’t remember what posistion to turn the dial that works good for the given temperature desired, maybe you shouldnt burn wood? These stoves are so predictable it may as well be a furnace, the same results day after day. I sure don’t need a number to tell me if its on high medium or low...
Warm day in Fairbanks?
Na, I’m good. Gotta have something to talk about!Who is getting riled up, now? [emoji38]
I love experiments.A few years ago I stuffed my BK full of Neil’s for an extended burn. Cat was active for over 50 hours (Not recommended but the BK can handle it!)
I’ve decided to do another documented long burn, inspired by @Poindexter . This time with 3 year old red oak. It was in my campfire pile, may as well bring it in for the stove.
6:30 pm, heating approximately 2,000 square feet. 30F currently, low of 23.
How many oh the bricks did you put in and how long did it go for?I love experiments.
I believe you will find the NEILS win.Density wins.I have had the longest burns without a cat stall using the Tractor Supply store eco bricks.I am sure the NEILS are superior to those and red oak sure is a good challenger.Can't wait for the results and observations.
Let me research the post.I remember it was almost a year ago and we decided to treck up to Syracuse NY for 2 days around New Years.When we got back it was still active.I believe the weather was not extreme so that helped.We are going to Pittsburgh next weekend and the temperatures look horrifically low.Gonna need to be running the propane or I would need 10 hour full loads if I can find someone experienced to do it.I will copy and paste my results from last year when I get a minute here.How many oh the bricks did you put in and how long did it go for?
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Ok.Let me research the post.I remember it was almost a year ago and we decided to treck up to Syracuse NY for 2 days around New Years.When we got back it was still active.I believe the weather was not extreme so that helped.We are going to Pittsburgh next weekend and the temperatures look horrifically low.Gonna need to be running the propane or I would need 10 hour full loads if I can find someone experienced to do it.I will copy and paste my results from last year when I get a minute here.
Mine weren’t actual Neil’s, but a box store knock off. Just couldn’t remember the name..I love experiments.
I believe you will find the NEILS win.Density wins.I have had the longest burns without a cat stall using the Tractor Supply store eco bricks.I am sure the NEILS are superior to those and red oak sure is a good challenger.Can't wait for the results and observations.
Roger that.Mine weren’t actual Neil’s, but a box store knock off. Just couldn’t remember the name..
Agreed. I can make this “smell”, but I know what I did to make it happen. Under normal use I never have a smell. I’ll also add that I run on medium/low almost always. I can run on the lowest setting on a minimum height flue without issues.For those fighting the smell issue I have a question. Are you giving the fresh load a chance to get a rather complete char before reducing air? I can get the smell almost anytime by not letting the load get completely with the program before reducing thermostat position. Starting a fresh load works great on a cold start. By the time the fresh load gets fully engulfed the stat gauge and flu temps are still reasonable.
Not as easy on a hot reload (think. really high flu temps in a hurry while trying to engulf the new load). If part of the reload gets going really well its tough to not set the thermo to cruise and walk away. Doing this will give me the smell. Bit of a game. Maybe the stink is primarily in the exterior layer on the splits? Likely moisture or ? Just throwing this out there for consideration. Almost hate to add anything but I can normally get around this issue for the most part with correctly timed thermostat adjustments.
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