2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[Ashful]

We have had our stove for 4 weeks today and as of yet, I have not cracked a brick, but (much to my shame) have have "tossed" in a few splits that rebounded off the bricks in the rear of the stove. I am trying to be more careful, but the damned thing is HOT when there are still a bunch of live coals and chunks of wood left.

Buy hearth gloves! Those without them may be more manly, but they're definitely not smart. It's so much easier to carefully pack your stove to 100% capacity when you're not burning the hairs off your knuckles.

 

[rdust]

I actually feel like I beat on the top of the stove more than the bricks. Trying to wedge one more in.

Yep, 6th season and all factory bricks are in place with no cracks. The bricks in mine are usually protected half up or more by ash.

I get caught on the pieces in the top of stove on the regular.

 

[claybe]

Buy hearth gloves! Those without them may be more manly, but they're definitely not smart. It's so much easier to carefully pack your stove to 100% capacity when you're not burning the hairs off your knuckles.

When you say hearth gloves do you actually mean welding gloves? I have seen a lot of welding gloves recommended but not any special hearth gloves. Are they better or worse?


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[claybe]

I just got a BK Princess insert late summer '16 and have been enjoying using it. I'm still getting used to it and how things affect the burn length and BTU output. That said though, I let it cool down recently and my thermostat gauge was as pictured. Is it normal for the needle to be that low on the gauge when the gauge is at room temperature?

BTW, my stove is only a few months old and it looks like one of my rear bricks is already cracked. I don't recall any "chucked" loads either. Should I put any furnace cement between the two cracked pieces?View attachment 191409

I actually think it should go to the bottom of the line before "inactive". I like to see temps of the cat so I ordered a condor cat thermometer.

http://www.condar.com/Catalytic_Thermometers.html

Now that I was just there, I saw they offer a digital option. Looks cool!

Edit: I typed the wrong thing. I think it is actually that little line at the beginning of inactive.


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[Smoky Stoker]

When you say hearth gloves do you actually mean welding gloves? I have seen a lot of welding gloves recommended but not any special hearth gloves. Are they better or worse?

I've been using a pair of $5 leather gloves from HD with good success and low cost so far this season. Welding gloves or hearth gloves will have a longer cuff and protect your forearm better for those blazing refills. I just got a pair of hearth gloves from LL Bean (JAXCO brand) and they are really nice. Can't feel any heat through them, but definitely an investment.

 

[HighTon]

I think that is fine. I actually think it should go to the bottom of the line before the "W". I like to see temps of the cat so I ordered a condor cat thermometer.

http://www.condar.com/Catalytic_Thermometers.html

Now that I was just there, I saw they offer a digital option. Looks cool!


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I have mine set to the tick mark just below the inactive stripe at room temp. I really hope this is right? I'm on my third year running it set like that.

 

[Highbeam]

We have had our stove for 4 weeks today and as of yet, I have not cracked a brick, but (much to my shame) have have "tossed" in a few splits that rebounded off the bricks in the rear of the stove. I am trying to be more careful, but the damned thing is HOT when there are still a bunch of live coals and chunks of wood left.

With that said, I still have not removed any ash although I think I might need to pretty soon. The wood I am burning does not seem to make much ash although I know pine allegedly does (fir just seems to disappear in the box with barely a trace). I also remember reading that I should leave some ashes in the bottom of the box when I shovel it out?

Any recommendations without going back and reading a thousand posts? How much should I leave in the box? Thinking I will let it burn out next weekend and let the house heat kick on for a bit so I can look everything over.

Evergreen wood (softwood) makes almost no ash. It takes many weeks (6?)before I get enough accumulation to fill one ash box. I empty the ashes when the little BK poker tool's head is buried so like 2" deep. It takes a lot of softwood to fill a king's belly.

I don't remember if you have an ultra model or not but my ultra has two layers of brick on the floor. I don't notice a difference by leaving any ash on the floor so I sweep it all down the chute if there is room in the ash pan. Some folks say to leave a half inch but that seems to be a non-cat thing.

 

[Highbeam]

I just got a BK Princess insert late summer '16 and have been enjoying using it. I'm still getting used to it and how things affect the burn length and BTU output. That said though, I let it cool down recently and my thermostat gauge was as pictured. Is it normal for the needle to be that low on the gauge when the gauge is at room temperature?

BTW, my stove is only a few months old and it looks like one of my rear bricks is already cracked. I don't recall any "chucked" loads either. Should I put any furnace cement between the two cracked pieces?View attachment 191409

That meter needs adjustment. The procedure is in the manual. Cold stove, I adjust the meter so that the dial points to the tick at the bottom of the inactive range. Just imagine, you are waiting like 50% too long to engage the cat.

 

[kf6hap]

Going back many years, all of my stoves had cracked bricks. As long as they are intact it is not a problem. They keep the flames from touching, warping or cracking the metal. They also reflect heat for good combustion. An intact cracked brick does not matter but should be replaced eventually as it might fall apart and stop doing it's job. My take on cracked bricks. Years ago I bought a tile cutter for a bathroom job. It works on "fire-bricks" bricks too. After one and a half winters of burning, no cracks in the Ashford. The entire combustion structure in the Vermont Castings Encore is made of brittle fragile composite "stuff".

 

[Highbeam]

Lot's of people slam the wood in so I'm sure there are many with damaged bricks. Point is, it's avoidable with a little care in loading.

I think it's also helpful when you are very careful about cutting your wood to a length that allows an inch or two extra.

I own some welding gloves bought for welding but have certainly used them for emergencies. If the only choice is chucking the wood or wearing gloves then I recommend the gloves.

 

[Highbeam]

Look what I made. I like the BK tool so much that I made a slightly bigger one for the non-cat in the shop. I'm always burning up the front half of the fuel load and wanting to rake wood forward and down to load more in. A little 3/8" rod, a vice, a mallet, and she's done. So far so good.

 

[Smoky Stoker]

Look what I made. I like the BK tool so much that I made a slightly bigger one for the non-cat in the shop. I'm always burning up the front half of the fuel load and wanting to rake wood forward and down to load more in. A little 3/8" rod, a vice, a mallet, and she's done. So far so good.

Highbeam, Looks really nice! The guys from our local dealer who installed the stove didn't know what the "rod" (BK Poker) was for that was shipped with the wood stove.

I like how simple the BK poker is and was thinking to do the same thing with a rod from TSC. Did you need to heat the rod at all before bending?

 

[begreen]

That strongly resembles the poker we got with our 1979 Resolute. I still use it daily.

 

[tarzan]

Buy hearth gloves! Those without them may be more manly, but they're definitely not smart. It's so much easier to carefully pack your stove to 100% capacity when you're not burning the hairs off your knuckles.

Maybe the guys who manage loading there stoves bare handed without injury or singed hair are the smart ones

 

[Highbeam]

Highbeam, Looks really nice! The guys from our local dealer who installed the stove didn't know what the "rod" (BK Poker) was for that was shipped with the wood stove.

I like how simple the BK poker is and was thinking to do the same thing with a rod from TSC. Did you need to heat the rod at all before bending?

No heating, just clamp it in the vice where you want the bend and bonk it with a mallet. I use one of those mini sledges on a 12" or less wooden handle. I meant for it to be longer but accidentally made the wrap for the handle a bit long. The NC30 firebox is deeper so I wanted more length.

I thought about adding a couple of more teeth to the hot end to make it work like a rake but I'll try it like this for now.

 

[Woody Stover]

That strongly resembles the poker we got with our 1979 Resolute. I still use it daily.

This was the handiest I ever came across. Heavy duty, fat handle, and a nice hooking action to it.

 

[jetsam]

Maybe the guys who manage loading there stoves bare handed without injury or singed hair are the smart ones

You have faith, I have cowhide.

 

[claybe]

No heating, just clamp it in the vice where you want the bend and bonk it with a mallet. I use one of those mini sledges on a 12" or less wooden handle. I meant for it to be longer but accidentally made the wrap for the handle a bit long. The NC30 firebox is deeper so I wanted more length.

I thought about adding a couple of more teeth to the hot end to make it work like a rake but I'll try it like this for now.

Like this?!?



Also made the coal scooper. I use the rake all the time and it works great!


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[MtnBURN]

It's always interesting to read the thoughts of BK owners/prospective owners/etc.

I haven't posted here since late last Spring. Thought I'd update/comment on a few things after a year of running 2 Princess Parlors.

First....we are incredibly pleased with all aspects of operation of these stoves. One stove is in the house. (800 sq ft) The other is in the garage/shop. (900 sq ft with 10-12 ft ceilings). Neither structure has any other permanent heat.

It is interesting to see how different both stoves run. The garage stove has a 16' stack.....the stove in the house has a 12' stack. Before seeing it in action, I would have guessed the garage stove would run hotter at a lower t-stat setting....however...that isn't the case. The stove in the house will run well/burn completely with the dial set about 1 oclock. The garage stove needs to be ran above 2 oclock or it will leave unburned chunks in the ash. (especially if oak is in the mix) Currently we are burning mostly cottonwood...10% or less MC/3rd year out from the chop. We can see the burn times lessening from last year when the MC was about 15-20%...but it heats like crazy just the same and 10-12 hour burns are still the norm. (15 hours last season) If we stoke it with gambel oak we can get 18-20 hours or so on a load.

Bottom line....with the BK we are never cold<<....and the wife is extremely happy. Need I say more guys?

I'm happy too. So much so that I ordered a 3rd Princess a few weeks ago....this time to assist in heating our greenhouse. This will be a fun project. While I had originally planned to place the stove directly inside the GH.... seeing the consistent/steady heat offered by the BK changed my mind and I am now going to use a 6 x 8 utility shed as a plenum and pump warm air into the structure rather than taking up valuable (and seasonal) space in the GH with a stove. .. This stove will have an OAK.....and we will have to play with the supply/return flows....but I think it will kick booty once it is all in place and dialed in. If for some reason it doesn't meet heating requirements (pffft!)....we can always move the stove into the GH and use the shed for wood storage/etc.

Many thanks for all of the posts/info placed here. This forum tipped the scales on my decision to go BK last Fall and as you can see..I have 0 regrets in that decision.

Burn on......bigly!

 

[volunbeer]

Buy hearth gloves! Those without them may be more manly, but they're definitely not smart. It's so much easier to carefully pack your stove to 100% capacity when you're not burning the hairs off your knuckles.

I have them and they are great! Still hot as all get out. I don't have the built in oven mitts like my grandmother had - I swear she would grab a skillet of cornbread off of the stove.

 

[volunbeer]

Evergreen wood (softwood) makes almost no ash. It takes many weeks (6?)before I get enough accumulation to fill one ash box. I empty the ashes when the little BK poker tool's head is buried so like 2" deep. It takes a lot of softwood to fill a king's belly.

I don't remember if you have an ultra model or not but my ultra has two layers of brick on the floor. I don't notice a difference by leaving any ash on the floor so I sweep it all down the chute if there is room in the ash pan. Some folks say to leave a half inch but that seems to be a non-cat thing.

We have a King Parlor so I did not get the ash drawer - bought a metal bucket with metal scoop from Amazon and will try it out this weekend. To be safe I can dump the bucket in the middle of one of the many 6' tall snow piles in the yard!

 

[kf6hap]

I like to use two buckets. One sits for a week, then I dump it anywhere I like.

 

[volunbeer]

I like to use two buckets. One sits for a week, then I dump it anywhere I like.

Good practice!

 

[Poindexter]

I have started a new thing this year for ash removal and pretty happy with it.

I used to let the stove go all the way out and clean out every ash particle I could get. By the time my Ashford 30.0 gets ash built up to the bottom of the door it's two, sometimes three trips with the container in the drawer.

I am about dialed in now, when the ash build up is getting noticeable I pull everything forward with a scoop, push the coals to the back with a rake, scrape one tray of ash through the hole, reload and go.

It says in my copy of the manual the stove will run better with some ash on the floor, I think 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches is suggested. The one thing I can put my finger on is the stove stays warmer longer with a decent ash bed in the floor. Specifically, having a healthy ash bed gives me a longer window from "could reload" to "must reload" without the cat going inactive.

So letting the stove go all the way cold the cat goes inactive and stays inactive for HOURS. When I take the ash out one tray at a time I can often go through the above steps without the cat ever going inactive.

Working for me.

 

[Smoky Stoker]

Does anyone spread the ashes on their lawn to lower the soil acidity? I heard that it's good for the grass, similar to an application of lime. Aparantly it also is a good source of potassium for the grass.

I've screened my ashes with a fry basket and have about three 5-gallon buckets of nice fine powdery ashes.

Curious to hear from someone who has tried it though. Any thoughts or suggestions?