2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[Lokidric]

Hard to see but is the upper part of the 45º stove pipe elbow (where the drip is occurring) inserted into the connecting pipe above it or is it vice versa with the male end of the connecting pipe inserted into the female end of the elbow below it?

Every piece of black pipe overlaps the piece below it.

 

[Lokidric]

I've actually had water make it's way in through the seam on some class A chimney brands, caulked the vertical Seam in the pipe, problem solved.

So pull the whole liner and caulk the seams all the way down? That seems like something the installer would cover.
Maybe this is just a one time thing with new liners?

 

[begreen]

Every piece of black pipe overlaps the piece below it.

Stove pipe must be installed so that the male (crimped) end always is points down toward the stove. That allows creosote drips to fall back into the stove and not down the side of the pipe.

 

[kennyp2339]

Rain would have been my last guess

I think your black pipe is installed backwards

 

[Lokidric]

Each piece has varying degrees of melted stickers that look like this. With the word up, and an arrow pointing up. They are indeed pointing up.

 

[begreen]

UBF is double-wall stove pipe. The inner lining fitting should be correct if the arrow is point up. Did you use ICC chimney too? I have not seen that leak at a seam, I believe those seams are welded.

 

[Lokidric]

I guess i should be asking chimney stuff on a chimney forum. Sorry.

The stove is fantastic and i brag to anyone of my friends that will listen.

 

[webby3650]

Hi.
Yes, it's a brand new chimney. Double walled insulated stainless all the way up with a new cap. I has been raining alot though. Not sideways driving rain but mostly just straight down. Rain would have been my last guess.

This is the reason I thought you had class A chimney. Sounds like you have a liner in a masonry chimney rather than class A. Caulking would not be applicable here.

 

[Lokidric]

Sorry I dont know what ICC stands for. Its a stainless double walled insulated liner. Hopefully this was a one time thing.

 

[kf6hap]

I recall others reporting "leakage" occurring at the first few firings. Manufacturing oil lubricant that dries out perhaps. Anybody remember this?

Interstate Commerce Commission?

 

[begreen]

ICC (Industrial Chimney Company) is the pipe manufacturer in Canada. http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/our-products

 

[Lokidric]

I believe it is an M&G DuraVent chimney.

 

[begreen]

The double-wall stove pipe is labeled UBF according to the picture. DuraVent double wall pipe is labeled DVL.

 

[Lokidric]

Ok, so ICC double walled black pipe to a DuraLiner in the masonry. Does that sound right? And would that help explain the black goo?

 

[webby3650]

View attachment 188493 Ok, so ICC double walled black pipe to a DuraLiner in the masonry. Does that sound right? And would that help explain the black goo?

It's fine to have a different brand liner or chimney. The connector pipe and chimney do not need to match.
This does not explain the black goo. I would notify the installer, then wait to see if it does it again, if so have them out to see it.

 

[Ashful]

Agreed, stickers are pointed the right way. We can also see the crimps pointing down, in the one photo, which would be correct if this is single-wall black pipe. Now, if that's double-wall black pipe, you must remember it "looks" backwards when installed, as the outer tube has crimps pointing the opposite way of the inner tube. Can you verify that this is single-wall black pipe?

 

[webby3650]

It's double wall, no doubt about it.

 

[Ashful]

It's double wall, no doubt about it.

I retract my former statement. Upon closer inspection, it does look like male end up, which would the the appropriate (outward) appearance for double-wall. This is likely not creosote leaking, unless something is seriously amiss within the pipe.

 

[webby3650]

I retract my former statement. Upon closer inspection, it does look like male end up, which would the the appropriate (outward) appearance for double-wall. This is likely not creosote leaking, unless something is seriously amiss within the pipe.

I've seen it a few times. I don't know how it happens.

 

[Gotrek]

Quick question. Should I get the convection deck on my scirocco the salesman says it is no longer required with the fan kit, but still available.

 

[Lokidric]

Quick question. Should I get the convection deck on my scirocco the salesman says it is no longer required with the fan kit, but still available.

I got one of the new sirocco 30.1s that have the built in exhaust deck. It looks way better than the convection deck and does the same thing. I don't imagine the convection kit would even fit on these newer versions.

If you havnt seen what it looks like I posted mine like a page back or so.

 

[Gotrek]

Ok yes I just found your stove pictures. I guess it doesn't extend as far forward maybe not as efficient at getting the heat over the cat?

If it's not really useful anymore I'd rather not get it

EDIT: I'm impulsive so I decided not to get it. I'm sure I can add it on at a later date if I change my mind. But this way it gives me added surface on the stove top in case I need to make a stew or something in an emergency

 

[bigaar]

Hey guys. This is my first post, but I've been stalking the forum a long time. I recently bought an Ashford 30 that is going to be installed in a new 2000 sq ft house with in southern Indiana.

Would you guys recommend the fresh air kit? Could anyone share whether they think their kit was worth it? My crawlspace walls below the stove where the "fresh air" would be coming from are spray foamed. Would that change the value of it?

Also, I see a lot of guys talk about their burn times. But how much wood are some of you guys burning a year? I've been guessing that I'll burn about 4 chords of mixed hardwoods or so with my set up?

 

[webby3650]

I heat 2,200 square feet with the princess/ previously Ashford 30. I use about 3-4 cords a year, that's 2 stoves, a fireplace and campfire wood.

 

[Ashful]

Hey guys. This is my first post, but I've been stalking the forum a long time. I recently bought an Ashford 30 that is going to be installed in a new 2000 sq ft house with in southern Indiana.

Would you guys recommend the fresh air kit? Could anyone share whether they think their kit was worth it? My crawlspace walls below the stove where the "fresh air" would be coming from are spray foamed. Would that change the value of it?

Also, I see a lot of guys talk about their burn times. But how much wood are some of you guys burning a year? I've been guessing that I'll burn about 4 chords of mixed hardwoods or so with my set up?

Outside air kits should not be set up to pull from the basement. There is no advantage to having an OAK, if it's pulling from the envelope within your house. The advantage of an OAK is that you're pulling outside air directly into the stove to fuel the fire, rather than pulling that cold outside air into the heated envelope of the house, for the purpose of feeding the stove.

If you know your house is exceptionally tight (have you done a blower door test, for reference?), then you may want to do an OAK at time of install. The more common advice is to install the stove, and see how it runs without. If you find the stove stalls until you open a nearby window, then you need an OAK.