2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK) Part 2

[kennyp2339]

Called my dealer, got the combustor and new gasket ordered, gave them the warranty # on the card that was packed with the service manual. They will place the order Tuesday and let me know the status.
Seems like this is going to easy, waiting to hit my normal life's speed bump

 

[webby3650]

Some of the additional debris accumulating on the cat and flame shield of a nearly dead cat is because the cat is no longer getting and staying hot enough to burn this stuff off but also you're needing to burn at a higher stat setting so more fly ash is being blown up into the cat.

Before you pull the old cat I'd call the dealer to ask how long until he gets a new cat for you and also to be sure he won't jerk you around. It's still burn season and burning with a dead cat is better than burning with no cat.

We always replace the cat and then deal with BK later. Some dealers won't do this, they don't want to invest any money in it if they can possibly avoid it. They want to send it off and wait for the replacement. Boo!

 

[Highbeam]

We always replace the cat and then deal with BK later. Some dealers won't do this, they don't want to invest any money in it if they can possibly avoid it. They want to send it off and wait for the replacement. Boo!

Kenny's dealer might be equally awesome. Or might have some testing steps to make the dealer feel good about turning it in for warranty.

 

[DuaeGuttae]

All symptoms you described I am experiencing, I also noticed a substantial amount of grey / brown fly ash on the outside of the flame shield.
The cat cells are cleared (missing a few small chunks on the back side of the cat)
I'm thinking that I'm going to purchase a new cat and also take the old cat out <4yrs old and send it back to bk under warranty.
*When replacing your cat under warranty - go through your dealer, not blaze king co.

I was thinking of issuing my disclaimer that I'm not a Blaze King owner, but then it occurred to me that I am. There is a crated Blaze King Princess Insert in the middle of the basement at the moment. I am not, however, a Blaze King operator. In considering buying one and in preparing to run one (not till next heating season), I've been reading these threads.

My question in response to this situation is, Why is this a warranty issue? If combusters are rated for 10,000 or 12,000 hours, wouldn't a decline after four years be normal wear and tear? I've read in a couple different places, "free cat replacement for ten years" (I've been reading all sorts of old threads), but that's not my interpretation of BK's extended warranty at all. I'm expecting that I will have to replace my cat after a period of time, though I'm hoping to delay that time as long as possible by good burning practices and possibly a vinegar resuscitation if things look desperate. Is there some particular reason to suspect a defect in materials or workmanship at this point?

 

[Ashful]

I was thinking of issuing my disclaimer that I'm not a Blaze King owner, but then it occurred to me that I am. There is a crated Blaze King Princess Insert in the middle of the basement at the moment. I am not, however, a Blaze King operator. In considering buying one and in preparing to run one (not till next heating season), I've been reading these threads.

My question in response to this situation is, Why is this a warranty issue? If combusters are rated for 10,000 or 12,000 hours, wouldn't a decline after four years be normal wear and tear? I've read in a couple different places, "free cat replacement for ten years" (I've been reading all sorts of old threads), but that's not my interpretation of BK's extended warranty at all. I'm expecting that I will have to replace my cat after a period of time, though I'm hoping to delay that time as long as possible by good burning practices and possibly a vinegar resuscitation if things look desperate. Is there some particular reason to suspect a defect in materials or workmanship at this point?

The life expectancy of the combustor depends on many factors, not the least of which is the stove design. It's not always 10,000 hours, although that may be what the cat manufacturer predicts in most stoves.

BK seems to have determined that most of their customers, who may not be 24/7 burners, get 10+ years out of the cat. So, they've warranted them for that period. They seem to also know that some customers, such as us very non-average hearth.com'ers, might only get 2 - 4 years out of them. It would appear that they're ready to absorb the differential cost of extending the cat manufacturers 6-year warranty to ten years, even for that small fraction of their customer base. I have seen no attempt on their part to exclude one from warranty coverage, just because they burn more hours per year than the average customer.

 

[jetsam]

BK seems to have determined that most of their customers, who may not be 24/7 burners, get 10+ years out of the cat. So, they've warranted them for that period. They seem to also know that some customers, such as us very non-average hearth.com'ers, might only get 2 - 4 years out of them.

I don't think I'm going to claim mine as a warranty issue. I used it up, I'll buy a new one. If it goes 3 years, that's $67 per year for a cat that saves me a couple thousand per year.

(For those wishing to point out that the cat isn't saving me anything because I could burn the wood in an old catless stove- the improved burn times and reduced wood processing and non-spiky heat outputs are worth a lot more than $67 a year all by themselves.)

Haven't decided about trying a steelcat or not... I want to, but ceramic is better suited to my burning style. I don't care how fast light-off is because the cat only goes inactive for chimney sweeping and summer. I like the additional surface area, though.

 

[Highbeam]

Right, the 10 year warranty carrot costs less to fulfill than the increase in sales it creates. A cat costs me 186$ from the same supplier and you know bk gets a better price. That's a very small part of the profit margin I'd guess.

 

[Poindexter]

How many hours is 24-7 burning from sept 1 to apr 1? About 5k hours, right? And my combustors last about two years.

I got no complaints about cat life. Mine runs at either mid throttle or full throttle 5000 hours per year.

Next winter mine is not even going to get a midseason 24 hour break to brush the chimney, my pipe looks great.

I wonder if cycling them hot cold hot cold wears them out quicker, or if constantly running on low so they are just barely hot enough to function is harder than wide open throttle.

 

[Niko]

I think I have been noticing that my T stat has been turning itself down on its own or am I just crazy? On reloads I always open up the TStat full but when I go back to it that after a reload and the wood is charred good enough I notice that it's not at the full open mark. Like last night after I have the stove off for 1 day and did a new fire I noticed after the fire got going that the T stat was partially closed about 35 percent movement from where I left it full open.

Anyone see this before or am I just getting old?

 

[Ashful]

How many hours is 24-7 burning from sept 1 to apr 1? About 5k hours, right? And my combustors last about two years.

I got no complaints about cat life. Mine runs at either mid throttle or full throttle 5000 hours per year.

Next winter mine is not even going to get a midseason 24 hour break to brush the chimney, my pipe looks great.

I wonder if cycling them hot cold hot cold wears them out quicker, or if constantly running on low so they are just barely hot enough to function is harder than wide open throttle.

We seem to be burning similar amounts, you being in Alaska, and me heating this big lossy house. I have never stopped for a mid-season cleaning, both stoves get a thorough cleaning and inspection once per year, in summer. I won't claim the pipe is squeaky clean after 6 months of 24/7 burning plus two months shoulder burning, but it's not bad enough to make me consider doing it twice per year, either.

 

[Highbeam]

I think I have been noticing that my T stat has been turning itself down on its own or am I just crazy? On reloads I always open up the TStat full but when I go back to it that after a reload and the wood is charred good enough I notice that it's not at the full open mark. Like last night after I have the stove off for 1 day and did a new fire I noticed after the fire got going that the T stat was partially closed about 35 percent movement from where I left it full open.

Anyone see this before or am I just getting old?

Not me. Actually the opposite, I have to get in there and lube the friction washers to allow smooth turning of the knob. There is no internal return spring acting to lower the setting like a carburetor.

 

[Poindexter]

I started out cleaning my pipe after one cord, that was clean enough to burn two, that was clean enough to go three....

And so on. I am - unless i get a big suprise next month- likely to burn the entire winter of 17/18 without cleaning the chimney not because i read about it here but because my install has earned my confidence.

 

[jetsam]

I think I have been noticing that my T stat has been turning itself down on its own or am I just crazy? On reloads I always open up the TStat full but when I go back to it that after a reload and the wood is charred good enough I notice that it's not at the full open mark. Like last night after I have the stove off for 1 day and did a new fire I noticed after the fire got going that the T stat was partially closed about 35 percent movement from where I left it full open.

Anyone see this before or am I just getting old?

I've seen this before on my stove. Here's some things to check to help you troubleshoot:

1) Next time it happens, look through your house carefully. Does your house have your wife in it?

2) Has your wife mentioned anything lately about being hot, or about it being overly warm inside?

If you have the same stove problem I did, these steps will help you find it. I haven't figured out how to fix it yet; I may have to make a warranty claim.

 

[jetsam]

I started out cleaning my pipe after one cord, that was clean enough to burn two, that was clean enough to go three....

And so on. I am - unless i get a big suprise next month- likely to burn the entire winter of 17/18 without cleaning the chimney not because i read about it here but because my install has earned my confidence.

I think I'll be settling in to twice a year... once in the summer after shoulder season ends, and once in the winter after shoulder season ends.

I don't get any accumulation when it's hot or cold outside, but I do get some when I'm burning super low.

 

[webby3650]

I think I'll be settling in to twice a year... once in the summer after shoulder season ends, and once in the winter after shoulder season ends.

I don't get any accumulation when it's hot or cold outside, but I do get some when I'm burning super low.

I just cleaned mine, I got about 1/2 cup of flaky black stuff. 16' total, I only clean once annually. I might switch to biannually.

 

[Highbeam]

I just cleaned mine, I got about 1/2 cup of flaky black stuff. 16' total, I only clean once annually. I might switch to biannually.

I thought you had a 12' stack like me?

 

[webby3650]

I thought you had a 12' stack like me?

I added 4' to the flue for added draft, more of a test than anything.

 

[Niko]

I've seen this before on my stove. Here's some things to check to help you troubleshoot:

1) Next time it happens, look through your house carefully. Does your house have your wife in it?

2) Has your wife mentioned anything lately about being hot, or about it being overly warm inside?

If you have the same stove problem I did, these steps will help you find it. I haven't figured out how to fix it yet; I may have to make a warranty claim.

lol I was thinking the same thing but she telling me no. I wonder if she is playing like a april fools joke or something.

 

[DuaeGuttae]

I don't think I'm going to claim mine as a warranty issue. I used it up, I'll buy a new one. If it goes 3 years, that's $67 per year for a cat that saves me a couple thousand per year.

(For those wishing to point out that the cat isn't saving me anything because I could burn the wood in an old catless stove- the improved burn times and reduced wood processing and non-spiky heat outputs are worth a lot more than $67 a year all by themselves.)

Haven't decided about trying a steelcat or not... I want to, but ceramic is better suited to my burning style. I don't care how fast light-off is because the cat only goes inactive for chimney sweeping and summer. I like the additional surface area, though.

This makes a lot of sense to me. Thanks.

 

[DuaeGuttae]

lol I was thinking the same thing but she telling me no. I wonder if she is playing like a april fools joke or something.

I mentioned earlier that I've been reading a lot of old Blaze King threads, so I can tell you that a member with an Ashford, Heftiger, had this problem in January of 2016.

Here is post 1318 from last year's thread:

The term "automatic thermostat" took on new meaning for my Ashford last night. It was forecasted to be a bitterly cold night, so I made sure the stove was stuffed full, set the thermostat to the 5 o'clock position and turned the fan kit to high. To my surprise, I woke up in the morning with wood still in the box, but not for the reason you would expect. The thermostat had wiggled itself down to the 3 o'clock position. Does anybody else have this problem? I was surprised when I got the Ashford that the thermostat moved so freely, my King had a little resistance to it.


Had this problem again lastnight, on the coldest night if the winter so far. I'll call my dealer next week and see what needs to be done.

I skimmed a few pages beyond that and didn't see any follow-up, but I thought I'd mention it in case it lets you know where to look for help.

 

[webby3650]

I've had 3 different BKs running 24/7, and service a few dozen. I've never observed this or heard of it before.

 

[BKVP]

Niko...it is possible that the two spring washers on the thermostat rod do not have enough tension. So it is very important that you follow these instruction closely.

First, if you have the fans, unplug the fans and remove the blower on the thermostat knob side only, set them on the floor. Remove the thermostat cover (I'll take hell for saying that from someone). Only remove the two black screws. Next turn the knob until the black set screw on the collar faces straight up and using a sharpie mark the position of the black thermostat collar set screw on the rod, just next to the collar. Then, clamp a pair of visegrips onto the rod about 1/8" away from the collar. You need vise grips and do not try this with pliers!

You then need a flat blade screwdriver and a small Allen wrench. 7/32" as I recall. Loosen the set screw and BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO ROTATE THE COLLAR ON THE ROD. Place the flat blade screwdriver in between the collar and the visegrips. Turn the handle of the screwdriver and it will apply pressure to the collar and against the flat washers. Tighten the set screw on the collar, making certain you have it still aligned with the mark on the rod.

Do not apply to much pressure to the collar with the blade of the screwdriver or you will make the thermostat knob difficult to turn. Now, remove the vise grips, reinstall the thermostat cover, MAKE 100% certain the blade is completely horizontal before the lid is installed. Reinstall the two black screws.

Reinstall your fans and again plug them into the outlet.

Your set washers may not have enough pressure and the bimetallic spring is actually turning the rod backwards. It is very rare, but so too is such great tasting baclava that your family restauarant makes!

And to the rest, be nice to each other. Live from Dublin Ireland,

Chris

 

[moresnow]

Live from Dublin Ireland

Blaze King. International? Opening new markets abroad Chris? Or just enjoying a dark brew or two!

 

[BKVP]

Blaze King. International? Opening new markets abroad Chris? Or just enjoying a dark brew or two!

A bit, o.k. a lot of both.

 

[showrguy]

A bit, o.k. a lot of both.

Hey Chris,
I talked to Clair @ Bowmans yesterday, he was gonna call ya tomorrow about my draft situation..

I took a manometer reading a few days ago, 32" off of stove top and had .23-.26" of -w/c draft/draw..
I think I need a key damper, but he wanted to see what you recommended..
Have fun, and watch out for runaway trucks where you're at..