BKVP
Minister of Fire
And the glass door.Even on full blast you can see the major heat maker is the cat. Cool pic.
And the glass door.Even on full blast you can see the major heat maker is the cat. Cool pic.
It went completely over my head.With the air velocity of his words?
With the air velocity of his words? After supersizing the blower on my NC30 and adding a convection deck I can agree that forced air "cooling" of the stove can cause a significant loss of stove temp which corresponds with a high heat transfer to the air. The princess blowers seem weak in comparison.
Nothing is free either. I'm sure stripping the heat away with a blower means more wood burned, unless you turn the stove down and it's a wash. I have enough ceiling fans here I'm not sure a blower would be that useful just to move the air around.
And the glass door.
Keep in mind the Flir only shows radiant heat, which of course is #1 off glass and #2 off cat, with stove at full blast. The convection profile is driven by radiant surface temps, but it may not be an exactly linear function, as there's a square-law relationship between air velocity and convective heat transfer coefficient.
Can someone give me an idea of the max stove top temp reading on this gauge I should get to? I'm going to periodically do a high burn with the damper open to burn off moisture.
Start the load, close the bypass when the cat goes active, leave it cranked up to high and let it burn for 30 minutes. According to BK, you can't damage the stove this way. It'll get hot and that's the point. Do not operate this stove based on a temperature gauge (other than the cat active/inactive indicator which is nothing more than an on/off swtich).
That should burn off the ugly creo accumulations from inside the firebox and heat up the chimney as much as the BK can.
I read your other thread and before I tried a burnoff like this I would want to verify that your chimney is not needing to be cleaned.
And the glass door.Even on full blast you can see the major heat maker is the cat. Cool pic.
Princess window question, my window is pretty black and I really don't see a need to clean it as it will be black again in 2 days probably . We cant see it anyway it is in the kitchen so my question is if I wait till next fall and clean the galss then will waiting that long be an issue? I have heard it said that a hot fire will clear the glass . I let her run about 20 min every day wot damper on 6 but it never really cleans up any. Just wanted some thoughts. I can see a lot of hours cleaning glass that will be dirty again in 2 days.
And the glass door.[/QUOTE]If the stove is hot and combustor is a tive, close the by pass please. If you exposure the by pass retainers to excessive heat, you will find yourself replacing them.
Chris
QUOTE="Highbeam, post: 1992591, member: 1382"]Even on full blast you can see the major heat maker is the cat. Cool pic.
Princess window question, my window is pretty black and I really don't see a need to clean it as it will be black again in 2 days probably . We cant see it anyway it is in the kitchen so my question is if I wait till next fall and clean the galss then will waiting that long be an issue? I have heard it said that a hot fire will clear the glass . I let her run about 20 min every day wot damper on 6 but it never really cleans up any. Just wanted some thoughts. I can see a lot of hours cleaning glass that will be dirty again in 2 days.
nope, your not doing anything wrong. what he is saying is don't do that without the cat being engagedThanks BKVP but I am kind of lost ? I thought you were supposed to run the stove with the damper open for 20 min after each fill up? I run the stove till the dial is in the very beginning edge of the active zone, then close the bypass. Then the thermostat / damper is already wot / on 6 so I leave it there for 20 min ? am I doing something wrong please tell me cause I spent a small fortune here and don't want to ruin anything Jeff
I think the glass will be less of an issue as it gets colder out and we are running the stoves harderI was gone a moment had to lug 2 50# bags of potatoes down cellar
Ok all thanks for the responses !! I will try the wood close to the door trick too.
Maybe when I said damper at wot he thought I was talking about the by pass door ? I use the word "damper" or "thermostat" as interchangeable I guess... sorry. I use the word bypass to describe the door close to the cat controlled by the lever on the right. So my nomenclature may have caused the bkvp to think I was leaving the bypass open for 20 min,... not good I don't do that.
I just cleaned out the stove for the first time Sunday am so I missed my chance to clean the glass. I took out about 3 gallons of coals / ashes had to do something I was loosing fire box room. I have a hoe I built to use in the old mill so I used it to " hill up" the coals and ran the thermo at 6 for a couple hours to burn them down some but in the end they had to go , after all coals are cheep to make !!
So if I wait to clean the glass will that be an issue?
So if I wait to clean the glass will that be an issue?
I goggled bk clean glass yada yada and some folks say put in a load of kindling near the door and run her on "3 " that will burn her clean? Well my stove is almost closed up tight at 3 / well 2.5 or so is closed I think. Now I have to go look. so in my case I guess 4 would be more to my liking.
yea I was wrong 2 is closed so I am running it on 3 and I never see many flames. My door glass looks like a big ole "woman's butt" bent over to get me some more wood . It is black on the left, black on the right and a little crack of clean in the middle.
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