2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)

[Highbeam]

The BK manual explains that the cat probe is an indicator, generally it reports temps that occurred 10min past (I think) so if you have a ripping fire and the probe is just below active zone, I shouldn't hurt engaging it. Now if your smoldering don't engage, add more air.

We're told that the cat lights off when flue gas temps are 500 or higher. Sometimes even lower with the steelcats. I have a flue temp probe meter and that bugger is often well over 500 but the cat meter says inactive. I've been tempted to flop the bypass despite what the cat meter says but I want to treat the cat really well so I wait. I've even begun turning the stat down to slow the fire while the cat probe rises.

 

[robk]

Is there a thread that gives more detail about the steel cats?

 

[Woody harrelson]

I relocated my sticker to the front side of the knob and reset the knob position 180 degrees. I also added numbers. Now I can see what I'm setting it at. Before it was difficult because I have a corner install. Also now when you " turn it up" for more heat you are actually turning it up

 

[mwhitnee]

View attachment 163910 View attachment 163909 I relocated my sticker to the front side of the knob and reset the knob position 180 degrees. I also added numbers. Now I can see what I'm setting it at. Before it was difficult because I have a corner install. Also now when you " turn it up" for more heat you are actually turning it up

That's awesome! My stove is in an alcove so that would help.

How easy was it to reset the knob position? How did you get the label off, a hair dryer? How long did it take?

 

[Woody harrelson]

That's awesome! My stove is in an alcove so that would help.

How easy was it to reset the knob position? How did you get the label off, a hair dryer? How long did it take?

turn the tsat to max setting, loosen set screw so you can remove the knob. sticker will just peel off, no need for hair dryer. reposition the sticker then reinstall knob and tighten so it matches the max position on sticker. I did get a spare sticker from blaze king, but the old one comes right off and you can reuse it. takes 2 minutes to do

 

[Woody harrelson]

it's a 5/64 allen wrench. I reused the old sticker originally, and it works fine that way. I got a replacement sticker so I could comfortably put the numbers on at the kitchen table then just pulled the knob off again and installed the new sticker.

 

[Woody harrelson]

I just don't understand why they would have the sticker on the backside of the knob when it's hard enough to see to begin with. this makes it a lot easier for us corner/alcove users.

 

[mwhitnee]

I just don't understand why they would have the sticker on the backside of the knob when it's hard enough to see to begin with. this makes it a lot easier for us corner/alcove users.

No idea- how much was the sticker? How long have you had it like that?

 

[Woody harrelson]

I just got the new sticker in the mail yesterday and put it on yesterday. I switched the original sticker around awhile ago.

 

[HighTon]

I relocated my sticker to the front side of the knob and reset the knob position 180 degrees. I also added numbers. Now I can see what I'm setting it at. Before it was difficult because I have a corner install. Also now when you " turn it up" for more heat you are actually turning it up

That is a good idea. I have an alcove install and it would have been useful for me in the first year. At this point I don't even look at the knob while turning it; I just reach back and set it by feel.

 

[Woody harrelson]

That is a good idea. I have an alcove install and it would have been useful for me in the first year. At this point I don't even look at the knob while turning it; I just reach back and set it by feel.

I have a lot of different people who tend to the stove on different days. With it this way I can just tell them to turn it up to 4 if your cold etc. they could see the line on the knob and the numbers. And it's natural to turn something "up" to make it hotter and down for colder

 

[Highbeam]

View attachment 163910 View attachment 163909 I relocated my sticker to the front side of the knob and reset the knob position 180 degrees. I also added numbers. Now I can see what I'm setting it at. Before it was difficult because I have a corner install. Also now when you " turn it up" for more heat you are actually turning it up

Great idea. Now I see what you meant by "in front". I would make this mod but don't want to risk damaging my now irreplaceable BK numbered sticker. The only problem I can see is that it is uncomfortable to turn the knob back to the midpoint. My thumb doesn't bend back like that.

 

[Woody harrelson]

Great idea. Now I see what you meant by "in front". I would make this mod but don't want to risk damaging my now irreplaceable BK numbered sticker. The only problem I can see is that it is uncomfortable to turn the knob back to the midpoint. My thumb doesn't bend back like that.

It's no different than how you have it now. Close your eyes and turn the knob each direction- no difference. It's just the sticker your moving. you still grasp the knob as you normally would to turn it down or up

 

[Woody harrelson]

By the way, the swoosh is the perfect sticker to do this mod! All hail the swoosh

 

[Jeff in Maine]

I don't understand not being able to get the stove in the active zone easily? Not trying to be argumentative but I am in the zone maybe 12 minutes from first match lighting time? I put in 4-5 sheets of newspaper crumpled up maybe 10-15 pieces of cedar kindling loaded east west and 4 pieces of small split hardwood loaded front to back. I open the draft all the way, flop bypass lever forward and light the paper then I leave the front door open "as in lever up against the latch balanced on it" I guess to leave the door as open as possible while still closed to .

I then set the timer for 15 min on my kitchen stove ( so I don't forget the Blaze King) and go watch tv and in about 10 - 12 min you can hear her ticking pretty good steel getting hot ,then I go out and it is always in the active zone or will be in a minute or so. Then I open the door load the stove full ,close the door and latch it this time ,close the bypass and leave the draft open all the way .

I set the timer again,.. for 30 min this time and go set down and let her roar if she wants to , wont hurt a thing keeps the chimney clean remember those long burn times are not magic it comes from a smoldering / mulling fire. This high heat time will ensure you still have a home next year!! "not a victim of a chimney fire" run her just like the book says,.. easy as falling down a well !!
Remember something,.. some of the people you may get advice from are as new or newer to the stove as you are File that away and remember it. Don't over think it ,it is just a stove. Good luck Jeff in Maine

 

[Ashful]

Jeff, maybe you have less draft. If I left my stove door ajar, and set a timer for 15 minutes, I'd come back to find a puddle of molten steel where my stove once was.

Even with the door shut, and bypass open, it wouldn't take long to get my stove pipe glowing.

 

[Jeff in Maine]

yes that may be the difference. I have run many stoves in the same chimney they all worked great. I am using double wall pipe .

 

[Poindexter]

I just don't understand why they would have the sticker on the backside of the knob when it's hard enough to see to begin with. this makes it a lot easier for us corner/alcove users.

Because after you get through your first January with the stove you won't be using the numbers anymore and for the rest of the life of the stove it is likely more aesthetically pleasing to have them out of sight behind the knob. I guess.

 

[Woody harrelson]

Because after you get through your first January with the stove you won't be using the numbers anymore and for the rest of the life of the stove it is likely more aesthetically pleasing to have them out of sight behind the knob. I guess.

Well heck, just have open, halfway and closed then if the Tstat setting is so meaningless

 

[becasunshine]

The Princess is showing her true colors in the low burn range this weekend.

Yesterday's outdoor temps never broke out of the 50s. The sun didn't break through the cloud cover until about 4pm, not long before sunset. My husband spend all day yesterday soaking wet to the skin, power washing the house in wind coming in off of the water. Last night's temps dropped into the 40s.

I could have used the heat pump but why? We've paid for the wood, it's dry and seasoned.

I built the first fire of the season yesterday evening. I reloaded the stove last night once after the fire was established- and that's been it. Haven't reloaded the stove since. Still burning from last night's load.

The touted Blaze King long burn is really working for us this weekend. Today's temps were mild, in the upper 50s, just breaking 60 at the high. Tonight will be down into the 30s. We have kept the stove on setting 1 of 4 all day. A couple of times I opened the heat control up to about 2.5 just to make sure that it's still lit. It is- and is putting out good heat. We had to open the sliding glass door at one point this afternoon but for the most part, the low, gentle heat is perfect.

Stove is happy on setting 1, heat is perfect, interior temps are mid 70s, outdoor temps are low 50s. Lows tonight will be in the 30s. Later this evening we'll reload the stove. Tomorrow's highs will be cooler, in the low 50s.

Obviously we aren't taxing this stove on its upper capacities, but learning to burn it efficiently on low is equally as important to us for the shoulder seasons. Hubs cleaned the chimney last spring, and we do have hot burns about once a week during the colder winter to clear the chimney. (P.S. We are not here full time yet, so we are not burning the stove 24/7 yet during the cold weather. A once a week clearing burn should be OK for now.)

Love this stove. Love it.

 

[Siray13]

Has anyone looked at this? What do you think about the damage?

(broken link removed to http://m.ebay.com/itm/Blaze-King-Ashford-30-1-Solid-Wood-Catalytic-Stove-Metallic-Black-/361409225524?nav=SEARCH)

 

[Ashful]

Got the second Ashford 30 up and running today, for the first time since June (yes... June). Whole house holding 72 all day, so it seems we've mastered burning low, as outside temps were up into the low 50's. Dropping to 28F tonight.

Now that I have both stoves running, I'm noticing some differences between these two Ashford 30's, purchased on the same date. First, one air control goes to the 6 o'clock position when turned to max, the other stops at 5 o'clock. Clearly one is set wrong, but which? Also, I notice the one fan on low is running the same speed the other does on medium. In other words, it can not be turned down nearly as low. I do recall BKVP posted a procedure to adjust this recently, so I can easily address that, but I wonder why they aren't adjusting them all the same at the factory.

Both stoves are running beautifully, despite these little idiosyncrasies. Just gotta find the average 12-hour and 24-hour set points on each of the t'stats, which is going to take a while.

 

[Poindexter]

Now that I have both stoves running, I'm noticing some differences between these two Ashford 30's, purchased on the same date. First, one air control goes to the 6 o'clock position when turned to max, the other stops at 5 o'clock. Clearly one is set wrong, but which?

On my last year's model, a "30" not a 30.1 the correct TStat setting was for the hard stop to be at 6 oclock. Fairly simple adjustment, turn the tstat up to the hard stop, loosen the allen screw in the knob, twist the knob to six oclock, tighten the allen screw, done. If it is your 30.1 with the hard stop at 5 oclock I haven't read the correct answer to that on here yet, or I forget having read it.

Also, I notice the one fan on low is running the same speed the other does on medium. In other words, it can not be turned down nearly as low. I do recall BKVP posted a procedure to adjust this recently, so I can easily address that, but I wonder why they aren't adjusting them all the same at the factory.

I only have one stove, one fan kit. Given the caves your stoves are in I would probably just put the fan kit that blows the most air onto the stove that is in the harder part of the house to heat, put the slow one in the part of the house that is easier to heat and play with the fan kits on other Ashfords when visiting other homes. Foregoing ass/u/me s the 30 and 30.1 fan kits are interchangeable.

Just gotta find the average 12-hour and 24-hour set points on each of the t'stats, which is going to take a while.

Nope, that won't be your problem. Put the tstat knob where you want it based on what clothes your wife is wearing. With the long coal stage on those hardwoods you got the question to ask your self when it is convenient to reload is "How much fresh cord wood can I fit in the stove on top of that magnificent bed of red hot coals?" I predict you will carry more wood in from the garage then can possibly fit in each stove a half dozen times before you start shining a bright flashlight through the glass on your way to the garage woodpile. I find a 600 lumen light works real good.

 

[Poindexter]

I suppose its more likely that you have an average and a below average fan. But you might have a factory freak, and if anyone on here needs a factory freak fan kit on an A30 you are the guy.

 

[Poindexter]

I thought of one other thing too Ashful. Please understand I am not trying to be condescending. Really I kinda feel maybe a little bit responsible for you choosing to replace your radiant Jotul's with convective Ashfords. Just a little. I know you are a grown adult and an experienced engineer and made an informed decision based on multiple inputs, yada yada; but I am still going to feel a little guilty or sheepish if you don't love these stoves.

Imagine we house swapped in January, or at Xmas. Down to -20dF in my suburban shoe box I would encourage you to have the fan kit running, even just ticking over and set the tstat wherever feels good to you. At -30dF to keep the house comfortable you'll want the fan kit and the Tstat likely both at about medium. At -40df you'll want the tstat and and fan kit both at wide open throttle, but you'll still be reloading the stove on hot coals with no match or kindling required every twelve hours. Down around -45dF or -50dF the degree loss per hour on my insulation envelope crosses an exponential knee and you'll need to reload every 6-8 hours.

Likewise, I would listen very carefully to what has worked for you in your stone monolith. I would even write it down and ask intelligent questions. Once your flight was wheels up I would turn both fan kits up to high to get the strongest possible convection current out of those caves, and adjust the house temperature with the tstat. I wouldn't fool with fractional setting like 0.8 or 0.6, I would only turn the tstat down to about 1 on the 30 dial or 1 oclock on the 30.1 dial. If the house was "too hot" with the Tstat at 1 (oclock) and the fan kit on the highest possible setting, only then would I relent and start slowing the fan kit speed down.

Just my opinion.