2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)

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Someone help me tighten the byapss screw, just did my cleaning on al my pipes. Im looking down my stove and with the bypass closed it seems their is some play with the bypass door moving side to side and up and down. I see a bolt and a screw. The gakset seems flat but is good condition. Is the bypass supposed to be as tight as the front door? Gonna call blaze king and ask also. Any help would be awesome!

I just set my bypass tension a month or so ago. The manual has a little guidance. Most important is to know that there is a locknut under the bolt head that must be loosened before the bolt can be adjusted. Also, those buggers are tight and if your wrench slips you can slam into the back of the catalyst. The way to adjust it is to feel the required effort to "cam over" the bypass lever. You should feel and hear a noticeable click or clunk when you close the bypass. Not too hard but not so soft that the cam over is ineffective.

Turn the adjustment bolt by no more than a quarter turn at a time. I went a quarter turn and think I might have gone too far as it is pretty tight now.

Before you attempt adjustment, lube the bracket where it rubs the operating rod with high temp antiseize. That alone will make the bypass act much differently.
 
Loosen the keeper nut FIRST! It's under head of the bolt. Then add 1/4" turn to bolt, check tension, and resecure keeper nut with 7/16" wrench. Remember, heat expands metals so do not add too much tension....
 
Anyone have success with high temp copper anti seize or similar On the lever I see it baking into dust at that spot in the stove
 
nickel anti seize is better, we use it on hot sections of turbine engines
 
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The best anti seize stuff I have found for high temp's can be bought at any place that sells black powder rifles it is called "Breach Plug Grease" small tube. I have a lot of anti seize in the shop and I use it on a lot of different fasteners . When I first got my Black Powder rifle after I cleaned it put it on the breach plug BIG mistake. I was able to get it out after shooting but it almost acted like it welded the plug in place. I told a gun dealer and he turned me onto breach plug grease it is formulated to remain working under extreme temperature's costs less that ten bucks. Good for 5000# psi and 4000 degrees Hope this helps
 
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Sorry for the deLay, yes i did losten the keeper nut first as i called and talked to fransisco at blaze king. Tell him i said thankyou again chris.

I had about 1/4 or less of play side to side and about a 1/8th inch of play if i pulled on it. Tighten her up and she aint moving at all. Have not fired up the stove today.

as your posts states above chris about heat expanding the metal bypass,should i go back and losten it just a lil, for a tad bit lf movement?

Cause she was snug after i tightened it.

I did notice that their was about Maybe 3 table spoons of creosote right behind the middle of the cat, Cleaned it up super easy as i did the whole stole and chimney.
 
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Quick question on operating the bypass. I've always opened it once the cat goes inactive but if I do a small load in the evening I'd have to wake up to disengage. Is it safe to let the fire die out with it engaged being I'm not adding wood and thus making more smoke that would cause the cat to stall? Thanks in advance!
 
Quick question on operating the bypass. I've always opened it once the cat goes inactive but if I do a small load in the evening I'd have to wake up to disengage. Is it safe to let the fire die out with it engaged being I'm not adding wood and thus making more smoke that would cause the cat to stall? Thanks in advance!
Just let the fire die. It doesn't matter, you don't need to get up to disengage it
 
Go get a label from some poor shmuck that bought a label maker, I conned an office lady into making mine but I will say I pretty much don't use it. I turn it back from wot till I hear it "click" then I open it like a 32nd of an inch or something just off from completely closed up.
 

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Man all i gotta say is make sure your bypass door is not loose. stove is performing a lot more efficient.
 
If someone is making replica BK number stickers, please sign me up for one, at any cost. I friggin HATE this stupid swoop sticker.

I've been following the manual to the letter, and waiting for the probe thermo to hit the active region before closing the bypass, but the stove and pipe are mighty hot (and making lots of noise) before the cat probe says active.

On one or two occasions, I did engage when it just got to the middle of inactive, and it took off just fine. Any harm in shorting this process, and engaging early? I'm afraid running it up 'till the probe says active on every cold load is going to kill my stove in short order.
 
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Yeah,
Sometimes I throw the by-pass before its in Active, delay with the probe.

Like you, I kinda know when it's on it's way.
 
Yeah,
Sometimes I throw the by-pass before its in Active, delay with the probe.

Like you, I kinda know when it's on it's way.
I agree. It's pretty easy to know that it's time, even if the probe says its in the inactive range. Kinda the same thing with the "stupid swoop", it's easy to tell what's going on, numbers or not.
 
The BK manual explains that the cat probe is an indicator, generally it reports temps that occurred 10min past (I think) so if you have a ripping fire and the probe is just below active zone, I shouldn't hurt engaging it. Now if your smoldering don't engage, add more air.
 
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