Your favorite splitting axe/maul

[woodhog73]

A $5 garage sale maul is also a lifetime tool unless you grind a new edge on it every day.

On the other hand, you don't want to be seen in your artisinal brand name lumberjack outfit and a cheap unfashionable maul!

Funny and good point on the garage sale. When I saw the prices of the Gransfors stuff I thought it was a misprint ! That stuff is more money than I can spend on a manual splitting tool. I'm just curious if they work about $130 dollars better than my generic maul that I got for like $40 bucks.

I'm interested in getting a decent wood handled splitting axe to use instead of the heavy maul all the time but my price range is more like $50 tops.

Someone on here posted a picture of a nice Stihl splitting axe with a wood handle but it too looks like it's expensive.

 

[jotul8e2]

It is easy to snigger at high dollar versions of everyday items, but there is value in buying things that really are well made that goes beyond the mere utility of the object; things that bring pleasure just to handle. This is probably as true in tools as any product I can think of: Lie Nielson planes, Bad Axe hand saws, Thompson lathe tools, Snap-on six point sockets (the only thing in this list I own). And yes, Gransfors Bruk. If your budget will stretch that far and it is something you will enjoy, why not?

But then tools have to actually work, right? And for most of us funds are not easily replenished. Well, sometimes there are alternatives. Gransfors Bruks has a less expensive line branded "Wetterlings", largely the same product but with a lower level of finish and far lower prices. And I believe it was mentioned elsewhere on these forums that the $99 Husqvarna maul is made by Hultafors. Council Tool of North Carolina makes high dollar Velvicut axes but also a selection of mauls that should last a couple of lifetimes in heavy use at Fiskers prices, more or less.

I paid $80 for my Stihl maul and have never regretted a dime. The most expensive maul I ever owned cost $25 - it was a dead loss.

 

[jetsam]

If it is a heavy piece of metal that I can sharpen and put a stick through, it's somewhere above zero on the Maul Scale.

In related news, I recently made myself a hatchet handle for a Keen Kutter that's been in the family, using only hand tools. Didn't have a froe or a drawknife. Came out of it understanding why we invented power tools. Going in, I estimated the project at around 60 minutes, and it wound up being more like 8 hours. Did learn some useful stuff though, which I didn't expect.

 

[Hasufel]

Update to my earlier posts about my new Fiskars maul--much as I love my X27, I'm finding more and more situations where the maul just does a better job (the Fiskars maul, not my old big-box cheapy). Today I was splitting some knotty tulip poplar--nothing big, maybe 8-10" diameter--and the X27 wasn't doing a whole lot. It was taking 3+ hits just to start a split, then another hit to pry it apart. So I switched to the maul, and it was blowing apart the rounds on the first hit. Very satisfying! After the first split the maul was overkill so I switched back to the X27 to finish the job. The X27 still works great across a wide range of situations but for big & tough stuff I've really come to appreciate the maul.

 

[Vikingsholm]

Update to my earlier posts about my new Fiskars maul--much as I love my X27, I'm finding more and more situations where the maul just does a better job (the Fiskars maul, not my old big-box cheapy). Today I was splitting some knotty tulip poplar--nothing big, maybe 8-10" diameter--and the X27 wasn't doing a whole lot. It was taking 3+ hits just to start a split, then another hit to pry it apart. So I switched to the maul, and it was blowing apart the rounds on the first hit. Very satisfying! After the first split the maul was overkill so I switched back to the X27 to finish the job. The X27 still works great across a wide range of situations but for big & tough stuff I've really come to appreciate the maul.

Are you talking about the Fiskar Isocore maul?

 

[colin.p]

Update to my earlier posts about my new Fiskars maul--much as I love my X27, I'm finding more and more situations where the maul just does a better job (the Fiskars maul, not my old big-box cheapy). Today I was splitting some knotty tulip poplar--nothing big, maybe 8-10" diameter--and the X27 wasn't doing a whole lot. It was taking 3+ hits just to start a split, then another hit to pry it apart. So I switched to the maul, and it was blowing apart the rounds on the first hit. Very satisfying! After the first split the maul was overkill so I switched back to the X27 to finish the job. The X27 still works great across a wide range of situations but for big & tough stuff I've really come to appreciate the maul.

I am finding the same thing. Usually one swing and the Isocore busts right through .

 

[Hasufel]

Are you talking about the Fiskar Isocore maul?

Yes, the Isocore. Me like!

 

[StihlKicking]

Council 8lbs maul

 

[Fulkrum78]

Question... I need a hand splitter (currently have none). X27 or Fiskars isocore?

 

[drz1050]

Between those two, X27.

The local antique shops would be worth a stop though.. an old 6 or 8 lb axe eye maul is my favorite. And they just look way cooler than the fiskars IMO when they're all fixed up... and really, that's a part of it. Aaaand a wooden handle always beats synthetic for me.

 

[jetsam]

Question... I need a hand splitter (currently have none). X27 or Fiskars isocore?

Never tried the isocore.

You need a sledge hammer, some wedges, and a maul to split wood. An old fashioned 8lb maul works great. The X27 works just as well and is lighter but more expensive.

I might suggest earplugs too. Sledge'n'wedge can be considerably louder than a chainsaw.

I also keep my hatchet and big chainsaw handy when splitting. Some people also use a pickaroon. (I made one, don't really use it.) The hatchet is for trimming little stuff and knocking wedges sideways; the chainsaw is for ultra-knotty pieces that the maul won't touch and the wedges reduce to funny shaped chunks.

 

[Vikingsholm]

I get a lot of tough wood, especially pinyon. The only thing I've found that works is wedges and a sledge hammer with lots of beating. I wish there was a demo day where I could put that Fiskar into some of this wood.

I also prefer wood handles. It doesn't look like you can replace a Fiskar handle if you break it. Nope,I'll stick with wedges. I have a Mueller 'twisted' wedge that twists as it's driven in that should be here today. I'm looking forward to trying it out!

 

[woodhog73]

I have wedges but hardly ever use them.

I use an 8lb maul to break open big hardwood rounds. Anything 14 inches etc and bigger in diameter the 8lb maul. Then I switch to a 4lb long handled splitting axe something similiar to a Fiskers x27. I just have cheap generic ones but I hear the Fiskers is nice.

The basic ones found at big box stores have worked ok for me.

If the rounds are simply too big to bust open, and don't crack with 4 or 5 swings of the maul, I noodle it with the chainsaw. You don't have to completely cut it in half just a 1/4 way through will allow the round to bust open since the wood now has a place to expand. Lay the round on it's side to noodle, don't lay it on it's end standing up ( like you would when swinging the maul ) that would be rip cutting with the saw and is harder than cutting on it's side

 

[jetsam]

I have wedges but hardly ever use them.

I use an 8lb maul to break open big hardwood rounds. Anything 14 inches etc and bigger in diameter the 8lb maul. Then I switch to a 4lb long handled splitting axe something similiar to a Fiskers x27. I just have cheap generic ones but I hear the Fiskers is nice.

The basic ones found at big box stores have worked ok for me.

If the rounds are simply too big to bust open, and don't crack with 4 or 5 swings of the maul, I noodle it with the chainsaw. You don't have to completely cut it in half just a 1/4 way through will allow the round to bust open since the wood now has a place to expand. Lay the round on it's side to noodle, don't lay it on it's end standing up ( like you would when swinging the maul ) that would be rip cutting with the saw and is harder than cutting on it's side

I use wedges a lot and try not to noodle at all.

I am splitting a huge maple now that I have been noodling some though, just because if I split it with wedges I get very irregular pieces that are hard to tetris into the stove. If this same tree was an oak, I'd be doing it all with maul and sledge. If it was an elm, I'd be doing it all with the chainsaw.

Big gnarly maple

 

[woodhog73]

Lots of people split with just a lightweight splitting axe like a Fiskers but to me the heavier 8lb maul does a better job of busting open large rounds.

If everything was smaller say under the 14 to 15 inch mark I probably wouldn't bother with the heavier maul.

As for noodling I generally line up all my big rounds at once and just go and put a slice in them a few inches deep up to 1/4 of the diameter. It only takes a few minutes then I can bust them I'm half with the maul. So I do that all at once next, then after I half them, switch to the 4lb splitting axe to finish them up.

I can see why you got yourself a bigger saw and bought the Dolmar. I wouldn't want to cut up the tree in your picture with a 30cc saw. That would be an exercise in patience !

 

[woodsmaster]

I've got a maul that was given to me by my dad. It's got a triangular shaped wedge head on it and I'm guessing it weighs somewhere around 15 pounds. Metal handle. I think I've heard some people call it a monster maul. That's my go to.

I used one of those for years. It was also my dads. i bought a fiskars last fall and love it. I cringed at the price but I've come to find out it was worth every penny. It works SO much better, It's SO much lighter. and the handle don't get cold like that steel one.

 

[jetsam]

I don't really find that my X27 works any better than my old 8lb maul, but it is 25% lighter and works just as well.

I wouldn't cry myself to sleep if I had to go back to the old maul, but lighter is nicer.

Check out this split:

Inside. See the nice smooth grain? You could split that with a table knife!

Back side. One inch away and not a straight grain in sight! Put the table knife away.

There he is fresh split.

 

[jotul8e2]

I've got a maul that was given to me by my dad. It's got a triangular shaped wedge head on it and I'm guessing it weighs somewhere around 15 pounds. Metal handle. I think I've heard some people call it a monster maul. That's my go to.

I always figured that if I was strong enough to swing one of those I would also be strong enough to just rip the rounds apart with my bare hands, in which case I would not need a maul anyway.

 

[MadraMór]

I have an 11lb (5kg) maul which was made in Austria. It is high quality, keeps a good edge and has flat cheeks. While expensive, it is the best maul that I have ever used. I split a lot of spruce which is a soft wood, but it tends to be full of knots and frequently has dead branches running through the rounds which makes things a bit more difficult. When full swings become 'overkill', I shorten the grip and use half or quarter swings. It does not split everything. With the really difficult rounds, out comes the sledgehammer and wedges. I find that once the 'mean ones' are split in two, the rest of the job is generally easier and it is back to the maul.

 

[DUMF]

.

View attachment 176634

View attachment 176635

View attachment 176637.

Mr. Wedge here ....again.
Looks like Mr. Jet has two (2) shrapnel wedges waiting for flesh.
Advice ? Grind the corners down to 45 angles. Remember ER deductibles.
That manly sledge you have will do wonders with mushroomed steel.

 

[Fishnuts2]

I always figured that if I was strong enough to swing one of those I would also be strong enough to just rip the rounds apart with my bare hands, in which case I would not need a maul anyway.

It's always fun to watch people trying to SWING a Sotz Monster Maul. It weighs 15 lb and is not meant to be used like an axe. Lift it above your head and let physics drive it through the wood. It never sticks in the wood and is rarely denied. Just give it a little pop when it hits the block.

I have tried them all including x27s, lever mauls, and splitting axes. I split a lot of White Oak in the 80's with my FiL's Monster Maul and it proved itself.
I found a used one 15 yrs ago and use it for all my cabin wood. At age 62, easiest matters!
It is still the most efficient if used properly.

 

[MadraMór]

It's always fun to watch people trying to SWING a Sotz Monster Maul. It weighs 15 lb and is not meant to be used like an axe. Lift it above your head and let physics drive it through the wood. It never sticks in the wood and is rarely denied. Just give it a little pop when it hits the block.

I have tried them all including x27s, lever mauls, and splitting axes. I split a lot of White Oak in the 80's with my FiL's Monster Maul and it proved itself.
I found a used one 15 yrs ago and use it for all my cabin wood. At age 62, easiest matters!
It is still the most efficient if used properly.

I am the same age as yourself and I do find that my 11 LB maul is easier to work with on the heavier stuff than using a lighter maul with many more swings. Having said that if you are working with light stuff with straight grain and no knots it does make sense to use a light maul or indeed an axe.
I suppose it is a matter of horses for courses!

 

[skolsplitter]

I've got a maul that was given to me by my dad. It's got a triangular shaped wedge head on it and I'm guessing it weighs somewhere around 15 pounds. Metal handle. I think I've heard some people call it a monster maul. That's my go to.

I have been using a 15# monster maul for over 20 years You have to "read the wood" to use it effectively. never use it to drive steel wedges. release grip on the handle just before

contact with the log.

 

[Hasufel]

I have been using a 15# monster maul for over 20 years You have to "read the wood" to use it effectively. never use it to drive steel wedges. release grip on the handle just beforeView attachment 192361 contact with the log.

I almost got one of those monsters because my old maul was bouncing off some tough rounds. I went to Northern Tool but they were out of stock so I held off and then discovered the X27. I'm glad I did because now, a couple years later, it hurts my shoulders to even look at a picture of the monster maul!

 

[guardog12]

recently bought a Fiskar and I am very impressed. Takes minimal effort and most any log splits with easy. Extremely sharp as well ! I recently cut my finger to the bone sharpening it. ;-( Guess I did a great job.