I'm almost ashamed to admit I just bought a log splitter. I had a huge pile of unsplittable-by-hand pieces, plus about a cord of spruce yard trees full of knots and branches that I wasn't going to be worth the effort even trying to split by hand.
I'll still use the Fiskars when I need a good workout and have the extra time.
Yup! Log splitters are like trucks. Folks claim they don't need them but will always be quick to call on someone who has one when they do need it.Count me in the "have a log splitter" crowd! +60 years, my days of hand splitting wood, with anything, are over!
Yea, getting old isn't for wussies In hydraulics, we trust!
Frozen oak will split much easier than non-frozen oak.My Fiskars 8# maul arrived yesterday and I finally got a chance to try it out this afternoon on some 18"+ oak rounds. The sound it makes when hitting the round is very satisfying but it didn't seem to split much better than my X27--it took two or three hits to start a split and then one more to open it up. Then, for the sake of comparison, I tried the X27. Bounce. Bounce. Bounce. It finally dawned on me that the rounds were frozen and were taking more force to split than I had been used to. So it wasn't really a fair test of the maul. Relative to the X27 it was actually doing a better job--I just need to wait for a thaw before doing a real test of its abilities. And of course the X27 feels super light after I've taken a few swings with the maul. The handle on the maul is a couple inches shorter than on the X27 so I had to remember to adjust my aim. It's also coated with a much "grippier" material, which means I might not even need gloves with it (once the weather warms up, that is).
But the best news is that my new Dolmar 7910 was waiting for me when I got home! I can hardly wait to try it out. Unfortunately the next few weekends are largely spoken for so I might not have a good opportunity until March. Bummer...
That's what I thought but I'm not finding it to be the case, at least with the oak rounds I'm dealing with. Maybe it has to do with moisture content or some other factor? After last week's storm there's still a coating of ice on many of the rounds. I dunno, but the frozen ones are definitely giving me more trouble than I'm used to with the X27.Frozen oak will split much easier than non-frozen oak.
I use an x27 for most of my splitting, which is mostly oak and black locust. sometimes on the big stuff I have rounds that are also pretty close to 2', wedge and sledge to get them in half; helps the x27 carve stack able pieces. I said most, sometimes you get some nasty twisted knotty grain that you don't want to touch with hand tools if you can; I've spent over an hour splitting one round that size and it was TOUGH. Might seem silly but see if the grain looks the same top and bottom, if it doesn't you may have some hidden knots. Like another poster said "you can't beat hydraulics", they are 10 times stronger than you and I don't feel bad about borrowing one and taking a whole pile of rounds down in a weekend.That's what I thought but I'm not finding it to be the case, at least with the oak rounds I'm dealing with. Maybe it has to do with moisture content or some other factor? After last week's storm there's still a coating of ice on many of the rounds. I dunno, but the frozen ones are definitely giving me more trouble than I'm used to with the X27.
The higher the moisture, the better when frozen. The round turns into a big piece of ice. When you strike it, it snaps right open along the grain. Except for a few species, green wood is always easier to split, especially when frozen. You may just have some really knotty pieces.That's what I thought but I'm not finding it to be the case, at least with the oak rounds I'm dealing with. Maybe it has to do with moisture content or some other factor? After last week's storm there's still a coating of ice on many of the rounds. I dunno, but the frozen ones are definitely giving me more trouble than I'm used to with the X27.
Nope, definitely not knotty--these are rounds from a long, straight stretch of trunk. And I did get some split, it just took a few hits with the maul to get them started. The wood technically isn't "green" because it's been on the ground long enough to start getting punky around the edges. But the heartwood is still super wet, at least 50% MC (my MM doesn't go any higher). I'm thinking they might just be too wet, and that the internal moisture plus the ice/snow we got helped form an extra hard ice cap. They should be thawed out by now so I'll give it another shot next time I have some spare daylight...The higher the moisture, the better when frozen. The round turns into a big piece of ice. When you strike it, it snaps right open along the grain. Except for a few species, green wood is always easier to split, especially when frozen. You may just have some really knotty pieces.
Not to split hairs but that wood is green. Anything that high in moisture at the center is still above the fiber saturation point. That is typically the accepted definition of green wood. It can be fully punked on the outside and cut for years but still be green in the heart wood if not cut, split, and stacked properly.Nope, definitely not knotty--these are rounds from a long, straight stretch of trunk. And I did get some split, it just took a few hits with the maul to get them started. The wood technically isn't "green" because it's been on the ground long enough to start getting punky around the edges. But the heartwood is still super wet, at least 50% MC (my MM doesn't go any higher). I'm thinking they might just be too wet, and that the internal moisture plus the ice/snow we got helped form an extra hard ice cap. They should be thawed out by now so I'll give it another shot next time I have some spare daylight...
Fair enough! Then the oak in question is most definitely green. It's had a chance to thaw so I did some more splitting this afternoon. This time my new system worked great--one or two hits with the Fiskars maul popped the round in half, a couple more hits quartered it, and then I switched to the X27 to finish it off. This is wonderful oak, almost entirely free of knots. The only problem is that the rounds are large enough that they're hard to split initially...but now the maul takes care of that. I'll have to try it out on some hickory next.Not to split hairs but that wood is green. Anything that high in moisture at the center is still above the fiber saturation point. That is typically the accepted definition of green wood. It can be fully punked on the outside and cut for years but still be green in the heart wood if not cut, split, and stacked properly.
If your wallet is a bit heavy this month and you want to lighten it, there is always the Leveraxe:
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or Leveraxe 2:
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Does anyone have an input on a Gransfors Brux large splitting axe ? Or their splitting maul ? I was thinking about the 5lb large splitting axe but it's expensive at $175 bucks. Any input on it ? I watched a youtube video a guy did on one and it looks life a lifetime tool. I personally just use the cheap box store stuff when it comes to mauls and axes. Wondering what advantages this type of hand made axe would have ?
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