XXV troubles!!
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The original post states clearly, all vents and passages are clean and clear!! already look, did that first
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/xxv-troubles.140117/
This is not you problem bu you have the incorrect components in the system. That is not the correct adapter and in my experience silicone works better inside the seams and not outside.
Eric
This is not you problem bu you have the incorrect components in the system. That is not the correct adapter and in my experience silicone works better inside the seams and not outside.
Eric
JDenyer236
Feeling the Heat
Spot on, the gasket for the ash pan is not making contact on the upper left side, looks as though it has come unglued.
What you see is the excess that I spreaded around, the silicone was applied in the cavity then inserted onto the tail pipe of the stove, waited 24 hours for drying then completed the rest.
How does the stove run with the tee cap off and the OAK disconnected? This might be a shocker but the XXV I have in my house does not have an OAK. Two of the stoves that burn in my store do not have an OAK. I only have one WT in my store with an OAK and there is no pipe connecting it to the stove at this time.
Eric
Eric
No no, that is excess gasket material, anyone with an XXV could chime in on that. The XXV has 2 doors, the main on on hinges and the ash pan door on a cable, the main door closes over top of the ash pan door.
Did not try that, but my home is extremely air tight, not an option. In Canada these homes are known as R2000 homes, that is why I have only burnt 1 ton between 2 stoves to date.
That is normal in that picture. I would do the dollar bill or Euro (Canada HAHA) test and make sure your doors are sealing correctly.
Eric
LOL...dont have dollars bills here, its a coin!! Have to use a 5
BTW I really appreciate everything thrown at me from everyone here, thanks, I'm sure we'll nail it at some point.
Bioburner
Moderator
bogieb
Minister of Fire
You are correct, although I had assumed (bad thing, I know), that since he went outside and opened up the T, he inspected both ends - not just going to stove. that could be a totally incorrect assumption though.
Pellet_Pete
Feeling the Heat
I'm not sure if I have the ursine wisdom of Mr. Bear, but I think what he's pointing out is the drippy creosote in the firebox, which to me suggests that smoke was just hanging out in the firebox without being vented. Only time I ever saw something similar was when my father-in-law tried to start my P61A manually with gel - he freaked out when it didn't light like he expected and unplugged it! When I got home from work, the basement stunk of smoke & the whole firebox was coated in black goo which I eventually burned/scraped off with subsequent proper operation. You're getting strong draft readings, so I guess your combustion blower is fine, which I guess leaves the air intake as the culprit? Or fines box cover not seated properly?
In any case, I'd clean that ESP ASAP since it's probably good & gunked up too.
Draft tests on a cold box are fine and dandy if the stove doesn't expand and cause gaskets to part company with the metal of the stove.
Loose ends can sink a seal if they get where they shouldn't
Pellets embedded where there is a gasket is a problem as well.
Gaskets are where they are for a reason , to keep what is going on on one side isolated from the other.
Mr. Bear hasn't any real insight just pointing out where I'd start.
But on the other hand 'sote is a very bad thing and needs to be totally cleaned out if at all possible prior to restarting a stove.
I can make a mess of my bucket of parts just by not closing and latching the door fully
.
Loose ends can sink a seal if they get where they shouldn't
Pellets embedded where there is a gasket is a problem as well.
Gaskets are where they are for a reason , to keep what is going on on one side isolated from the other.
Mr. Bear hasn't any real insight just pointing out where I'd start.
But on the other hand 'sote is a very bad thing and needs to be totally cleaned out if at all possible prior to restarting a stove.
I can make a mess of my bucket of parts just by not closing and latching the door fully
.
When you say clean totally, scraping and brushing and vaccum, or use some kind of cleaning agent?
Bioburner
Moderator
Elbow grease
Yes , good old fashion brushing and scraping in case the Yankee slang is not very clear
Yes , good old fashion brushing and scraping in case the Yankee slang is not very clearLOL...ok did that, I mean you can still tell something happened, but it's clean and the rest will dry and burn off.Elbow grease
MarkF48
Feeling the Heat
When in operation does the stove ever really get up to a good hot heat inside the firebox or does it tend to have a low fire and just sort of smoulder? It sounds like it doesn't take much heat from the stove to keep your place warm from the pellet usage.
At every call for heat it will reach it's max flame height, nice and lively and then go in shutdown when the thermostat is satisfied. It starts at at 4:45am to bring the temp from 66 to 71 when we get up at 5, depending how cold it is it may cycle 2-3 times until 8am when the thermostat goes into setback. On a sunny day the stove may only start once, usually in the afternoon when the sun turns to the west around 2:30-3:00. At sundown it starts cycling again, once an hour maybe, setback to 66 at 11pm. The P61A downstairs cycles more, I prefer that model, in hindsight should have listen to me and got a P43 instead of XXV, but the wife wanted something sexier.
At this point I'm tired and peeved, so I'm not firing it tonight as I'm not in for a disappointment and need a good night sleep, I'll flip the switch on Saturday morning and see what happens, meantime will use the heat pump.
I'll be back with my findings then.
I'll be back with my findings then.
If you can get the stove outside a good old fashioned sponge bath using warm water with some liquid dish detergent, you need to keep the liquid away from the wiring and electronics. However the use of elbow grease and scrappers also works. The warm water and dish detergent loosens the crud up however it also makes one he double l of a mess.
One other thing that has gotten into the act in the past with some stoves is the back-draft damper they can and do stick in other than the desired position.
That makes sense, so frigid Canadian air coming in the OAK and possibly freeze the flapper! My OAK is short on the XXV compared to the P61A, so it's entirely possible. I think I will fabricate a hood for the entry point outside, preventing the wind from entering the pipe while the stove is idle.
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