A bit messy, but very effective! I like my Shaver 3pt stump grinder, but I could always use an excavator!This is THE way to remove stumps...View attachment 278073
Wanted to circle around and ask you fellas a follow-up re: top-covering. I know there's a lot of debate on the forum about covering vs. not - my plan is to leave my stacks of ash open to the elements all summer, but I was wondering what you all think of leaving them exposed all winter? We get a lot of snow up here, and my stacks will get pretty good and buried. If I'm not burning this wood for another 2 years, would it really be that bad for it to get encapsulated in snow all winter?If it’s just for the summer I wouldn’t think twice about leaving it uncovered. It’s not like it’s going to be buried under snow. I have read that some folks leave theirs uncovered till winter then top cover, some cover straight away. I am like you it’s not worth the hassle to me. Your climate may have an effect on it if you have a lot of rainy/drizzling weather.
I don’t top cover anything but that’s just my preference, one less thing I have to worry about. If we get enough snow to bury my stacks we are having a wicked winter. I have seen several pics of wood stacks/piles buried in snow & most were top covered. Hopefully some of the northern folks will chime in.Wanted to circle around and ask you fellas a follow-up re: top-covering. I know there's a lot of debate on the forum about covering vs. not - my plan is to leave my stacks of ash open to the elements all summer, but I was wondering what you all think of leaving them exposed all winter? We get a lot of snow up here, and my stacks will get pretty good and buried. If I'm not burning this wood for another 2 years, would it really be that bad for it to get encapsulated in snow all winter?
For what it's worth, I only top cover the two weeks of wood I need at a time, but that's also because I don't have a shed. When I build a shed it will hold 4-6 cord and I will only have to fill it up once a year.Wanted to circle around and ask you fellas a follow-up re: top-covering. I know there's a lot of debate on the forum about covering vs. not - my plan is to leave my stacks of ash open to the elements all summer, but I was wondering what you all think of leaving them exposed all winter? We get a lot of snow up here, and my stacks will get pretty good and buried. If I'm not burning this wood for another 2 years, would it really be that bad for it to get encapsulated in snow all winter?
Wanted to circle around and ask you fellas a follow-up re: top-covering. I know there's a lot of debate on the forum about covering vs. not - my plan is to leave my stacks of ash open to the elements all summer, but I was wondering what you all think of leaving them exposed all winter? We get a lot of snow up here, and my stacks will get pretty good and buried. If I'm not burning this wood for another 2 years, would it really be that bad for it to get encapsulated in snow all winter?
I'm good without top covering in WI. I move my winters supply indoors starting in August or September during dry snaps a little at a time to allow more surface moisture to evaporate off.Wanted to circle around and ask you fellas a follow-up re: top-covering. I know there's a lot of debate on the forum about covering vs. not - my plan is to leave my stacks of ash open to the elements all summer, but I was wondering what you all think of leaving them exposed all winter? We get a lot of snow up here, and my stacks will get pretty good and buried. If I'm not burning this wood for another 2 years, would it really be that bad for it to get encapsulated in snow all winter?
Yeah, I ordered a new OEM bar since the Archer brand bar decided to spontaneously convert itself to a hard nose bar. I still have the old OEM bar, but it's pretty much toast and cuts potato chips. My pole pruner uses the same bar so I have a backup if I absolutely need one.@SpaceBus I had trouble with my bar to, and at $80 per bar I wasnt to happy, I did buy a new bar but I cleaned the crap out of the old one, picking debris from the nose / sprocket area then forcing grease into it, I ran it a few times and back in business.
I'm good without top covering in WI. I move my winters supply indoors starting in August or September during dry snaps a little at a time to allow more surface moisture to evaporate off.
Cheap tarps that rip and get holes are worse than no cover because it allows moisture in but then doesn't allow it back out.
@SpaceBus I had trouble with my bar to, and at $80 per bar I wasnt to happy, I did buy a new bar but I cleaned the crap out of the old one, picking debris from the nose / sprocket area then forcing grease into it, I ran it a few times and back in business.
ya it would be a lot of metal roofing that i don't have and would need to buy. Have lots of tarps, and you're right - top covered is better than not, but it's gonna be a bit of a PIA getting the tarps secured for overwinter in a way that's gonna make them last the winter, and not fill with snow and fall down between the stacks. I guess i could bridge the gaps with scrap wood, but now we're talking a whole project that I won't likely have the physical ability to do, which is the crux of why i'm asking.I just use some tarps or metal roofing with weights if you have it. It's easy enough and less water is good IMO. I only cover about 6 inches down the face with the tarps. With a rigid roof a decent overhang is nice. Probably not necessary but it can't hurt.
Ya, but would you leave your stacks out in the element over winter without top covering? This wood isn't getting moved somewhere cozy before the snow fliesI'm good without top covering in WI. I move my winters supply indoors starting in August or September during dry snaps a little at a time to allow more surface moisture to evaporate off.
Cheap tarps that rip and get holes are worse than no cover because it allows moisture in but then doesn't allow it back out.
ya it would be a lot of metal roofing that i don't have and would need to buy. Have lots of tarps, and you're right - top covered is better than not, but it's gonna be a bit of a PIA getting the tarps secured for overwinter in a way that's gonna make them last the winter, and not fill with snow and fall down between the stacks. I guess i could bridge the gaps with scrap wood, but now we're talking a whole project that I won't likely have the physical ability to do, which is the crux of why i'm asking.
Hey thanks for the details on your set-up. I see you're in an area that gets snow, so it's nice to hear that your tarping over the gap holds up. My concern is that the weight of the snow on top of the tarp will cause the tarp to sag in the gap, and cause things to topple, or rip open. But perhaps I'll just throw a tarp over the whole shibang in September and see what happens!I have 2 x 1 cord stacks with an 8 inch gap and I just run the tarp over both doubled. No need to bridge the gap. If the tarps are secure it'll brige 8 inches easily. I just use tarp ties, little balls with bungees. The other side tarp clips and the same thing. It's very easy and budget friendly just a pita to resecure every time you want to remove wood. It's a great option in the non burning season though on a budget.
Nothing beats a roof with a good overhang though. Best of both worlds. On the agenda when lumber is reasonable again.
I've done this method before and will do it again, I just run a center strip of wood right down the middle about a foot above the rest of the pile to make a ridge so the tarp self drains, didnt have any issues with the tarp ripping and all water / snow was able to drain away easily, plus it sort of acts like an air vent to.I don't want to attempt something that leads to instability or toppling.
I've done this with a rope as well.I've done this method before and will do it again, I just run a center strip of wood right down the middle about a foot above the rest of the pile to make a ridge so the tarp self drains, didnt have any issues with the tarp ripping and all water / snow was able to drain away easily, plus it sort of acts like an air vent to.
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