shortys7777
Minister of Fire
Still having problems with my saw. Hopefully buying a second one this weekend. I had to cut some long pieces up to fit my stove. Got the sawzall out. got the job done just not as fast. At least the wood is nice and dry.
Did you search, or post in the Gear forum about the saw...maybe it's a relatively easy fix?Still having problems with my saw. Hopefully buying a second one this weekend. I had to cut some long pieces up to fit my stove. Got the sawzall out. got the job done just not as fast. At least the wood is nice and dry.
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I did and I searched arbositsite, and a chainsaw repair facebook group. Starts up on half choke and if I keep the trigger pulled. Dies when it drops down to idle. Need to check compression again. I checked for air leaks with the carb spray method. Checked the intake boot and fuel lines. Its a 290 I turned into a 390 last year. Cut 3 cords last year and maybe half a cord this year before it started acting up.Did you search, or post in the Gear forum about the saw...maybe it's a relatively easy fix?
I think if you had a compression issue it would not start at all. I would check your carb settingsI did and I searched arbositsite, and a chainsaw repair facebook group. Starts up on half choke and if I keep the trigger pulled. Dies when it drops down to idle. Need to check compression again. I checked for air leaks with the carb spray method. Checked the intake boot and fuel lines. Its a 290 I turned into a 390 last year. Cut 3 cords last year and maybe half a cord this year before it started acting up.
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Going to and put a little seafoam in the tank. I do need to run non ethanol fuel in it too.I think if you had a compression issue it would not start at all. I would check your carb settings
Red oak.Dieselhead, what kind of wood is that? Ash?
Woody Stover, Siberian elm (~21 btu) is available. It has special properties that allow it to survive in low water areas. Russian Olive (~19 btu) is another tough one that can survive in low water conditions. Ironically, they are both invasives. Pine and fir types are available, but they are up in the mountains. Even poplar is better than no wood. I get excited when I get locust, ash, or oak, because it is uncommon.
So most local available trees come from people's properties - that is planted trees or the invasives. Cottonwood/poplar is another tree that can survive on little water. People plant them for wind blockage. The Dolmar has been a good saw, but I've upgraded to a new Makita 7900 (same saw w/bigger piston). I like the logger's mentality - every few years get a new saw so you'll have less hassles. I think I'll stretch this into 5 to 7 years.
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Dieselhead, what kind of wood is that? Ash?
Red oak.
This batch was free, loaded on my trailer with a machine, hard to say no. It was a lot larger than I prefer to deal with and also had a 1-2” punk all the way around the perimeter visible in the picture. I split and cast off the punk and still managed a couple cord out of it. there was a lot more than what was pictured. Probably 30 rounds at least. I just finished up stacking the last of it today.Yeah, Red Oak has those broad, flat, light-gray plates in the bark, the further up the tree you look. And that sapwood layer. Ash bark is more furrowed, no broad plates. And has no noticeable sapwood. They both split easy, though.
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I would meter check those splits before counting on it being ready for fallGot rained out today, and a cat snoozes under cover. 😸
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Yesterday, along with some other piddling around, I skidded up a few of the biggest rounds off the bottom of the Big Red Elm, using a chain and log tongs. Worked great, tires didn't spin at all. 👍
The big log across this first pic is an uprooted Red Oak that is mostly off the ground so I may grab that too, as long as I've got the area cleaned up for access.
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I've got several nice days now to put a dent in this stuff. SIL2 volunteered her and a friend's help (Vista guy,) to split some of the Red Elm for direct stacking into SIL1's shed, this Saturday.
I'm gambling that it can get dry enough by fall. It was dead for quite a few years, so I'm hoping the moisture will leave quickly. The biggest trunk wood will be stacked in the row with the best wind exposure, left-most row in the pic, and wood from further up, presumably drier, will be stacked in rows to the right of that outside row. Shed is roof-only, two rows on each side with an aisle down the middle. Holds almost three cords, I guess, but is already 1/4 full of wood left over from last year. 🤗
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I'll definitely be checking its progress over the summer and into fall. That's why I referred to it as "gambling." These biggest rounds that I'm pulling up now are probably 30% but as I said, this tree was dead for years so I'm hoping that the moisture isn't locked in like it is with fresh, live wood, and that this wood will dry quicker. If my bet doesn't pan out, I can always supply her with dry wood from my stacks, but that would be moving wood another time, which you always hate to do. The least moves, of course, happen when you split, then stack directly into the shed.I would meter check those splits before counting on it being ready for fall
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I burned a lot of dead ash that wasn't cut down until Sept this past year. Most of that was the upper parts of the tree. Some is still not below 20 though. Was a real PIA, because this was my first year burning and I had to test almost every piece. Some was 18 some was 29. I should be in good shape for next year , have a lot of ash split and stacked.I'll definitely be checking its progress over the summer and into fall. That's why I referred to it as "gambling." These biggest rounds that I'm pulling up now are probably 30% but as I said, this tree was dead for years so I'm hoping that the moisture isn't locked in like it is with fresh, live wood, and that this wood will dry quicker. If my bet doesn't pan out, I can always supply her with dry wood from my stacks, but that would be moving wood another time, which you always hate to do. The least moves, of course, happen when you split, then stack directly into the shed.
Or I can get additional smaller dead, dry trees out there, ready to burn, but it takes longer to amass appreciable quantities of that stuff.
My goal for the "splitting party" this Saturday afternoon, with several people working, is to get that windward rack filled with the wettest lower-trunk wood and get that drying in these spring breezes...then hope for a hot summer. 😏
I had a chance to check the "dead wood dries faster" theory with some White Ash I had over there a couple years ago, another dead-stander that I had been looking at for at least five years, maybe seven. It was still poking at over 30% when I dropped the tree 🤔 but I put that wood in a two-year stack and kinda forgot to check it after the first summer of drying (pretty breezy over there.) I seem to recall hefting several, and thinking it was doing OK, but that's no substitute for checking several big splits with a meter. I mean, I expect dead-standing Oak to still take more than one summer to dry, but I'm hoping that dead Ash, or this Red Elm, will be quicker. I'll make sure that whoever's running the splitter is keeping the split size down to around 4" per side.
As I cut further up the trunk, that should test drier, so the plan is to put the wetter, lower-trunk wood on the bottom of the windward rack, then drier stuff above the wet, or behind it it the second rack, where it will get less air movement through it.
Actually, the third rack from the left, on the wide aisle, should get decent breeze as well, just not as good as the first row that's facing the prevailing wind.
So if I've got her shed filled, that should be enough for next year depending how cold it turns out to be. Plus I have another covered rack outside her shed full of dry Red Maple, visible in the shed pic. Each rack is 1/2-2/3 cord.
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