Bioburner
Moderator
Northern Minnesota got pretty cold when the Manitoba blew the NG line to the US. Still no propane in the tank farms around me. A lot interest in southern properties.
Did they ever figure out what happened on the NG line?Northern Minnesota got pretty cold when the Manitoba blew the NG line to the US. Still no propane in the tank farms around me. A lot interest in southern properties.
Winnipeg is having a big problem with frozen water lines right now ... http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/manitoba/winnipeg-s-frozen-water-pipe-list-hits-new-high-1.2564455
Snipeth ...
Mind you heat pump lines are constantly cycling so as long as the pump doesn't fail... You'd have to know where the thermocline sits if using a lake loop as the water that is currently 8' deep is dang cold!
Yeah that's fine in theory but when the entire area is really low in temperature the frost line drops and that heat pump is taking the last remaining heat outta the ground. Then best you have every bit of the tap lines well insulated and a secondary source of heat
I'd have hoped by now folks would not go for average winter conditions and add in a healthy safety factor.
Mother Nature doesn't give a rats behind about theory, design calculations, nor ones stash size.
Street? There's no NG service in my entire county. Literally dozens & dozens of NG wells, but it's all feeding into the Millenium pipeline down to NYC.
Here's the view the other day from my bedroom window. Fresh-squeezed natural gas, probably 50-60 foot tall flame, almost 2 miles away:
View attachment 129497
It sounds like a jet airliner on take-off.
This can't be good.....looks cool but something about 60' flames pouring out of the earth seems like a bad idea...
I'd like to switch too, how much it cost ya?I switched to Gas 2 years ago. Furnace was 20+ years old, tank and oil lines were 40+. So I gained pellet space where tank was, and eliminated a HUGE liability. Saving a ton with the gas hot water and heat all year. Pellets assist, and a great backup.
Correct . They are also flared to reduce pressure at the well head so when they hook into mainline they don't blow valves/pipe.You should see them at night! All of the gas wells (at least the horizontally hydro-fracked ones) get flared-off for maybe 3-5 days. I've heard that it's done to blow out all the loose "stuff" from the wells, allowing them to feed clean/pure gas into the pipelines.
If it's anything like my water line not good. Too much rock in my area to bury very deep. Less than 2 year old in line heat trace died. Not sure when it exactly died but finally froze enough to no longer be able to draw water about a month ago. Our temporary line with the external heat trace does not live up to the -50 claim. We've learned the hard way to wrap line around the pipe (you're not supposed to) and cycle frequently . I had to uninsulate sections to wrap closer together and add more heat trace to keep it going. Limping along and hoping we don't get any more -30s. Next water line will have internal and external heat trace like the old one. We replaced and moved to a more protected spot when the submersible quit after about 17 years.
Mind you heat pump lines are constantly cycling so as long as the pump doesn't fail... You'd have to know where the thermocline sits if using a lake loop as the water that is currently 8' deep is dang cold!
A properly designed system should not be a worry even in the coldest winter. Even if the frost line drops the system still will work not as well but it would still work. Most heat pumps cut out at 20F for inlet water temperature and should have protection to about 10-15F. Also this winter was not that bad keep in mind there was snow cover which actually insulates the ground. A bad winter for a heat pump would be brutal cold and no snow cover. The coldest our loop has gotten this winter has been 31.8 for a incoming water temperature they design for 30F. I suspect the ground actually is in the high 30s to low 40s at loop depth.
No city water here - draw directly from the lake. We're on a piece of bedrock but ran the line along an area where it drops off and back filled but can't remember the depth. 1-1/2" line with internal heat trace inside 6" pipe with expanded foam. Back to the drawing board...Geez, never seen rock I couldn't get through (even bedrock)...How long a run...city water , how deep is it and how deep does it need to be?
Probably going to need a recirculating system,but would not have to be closed as can be dumped back into lake,could be on a timer.No city water here - draw directly from the lake. We're on a piece of bedrock but ran the line along an area where it drops off and back filled but can't remember the depth. 1-1/2" line with internal heat trace inside 6" pipe with expanded foam. Back to the drawing board...
LG...I have never lived or dealt with the temps where you live. Down here even a slowly dripping faucet will prevent freezing. My guess the recirculating system would be the way to go. The heat tape you say is inside the pipe?as well as around? If that is the case,and the inside heat tape is made for that application, this is how I would approach your situation. I would install a recirculating system with the heat tape inside only. The tape would be for emergency use only (incase it froze.) I wouldent bother to try to insulate it....unless there are obvious areas where the depth is insufficient. I would monitor water temps on a regular basis and only run the recirculating system when temps required it. since the heat tape seems to have a lifespan by using it less frequently its lifespan should be improved. Have you considered a drilled well? BTW...do you consider the lake water potable?Probably going to need a recirculating system,but would not have to be closed as can be dumped back into lake,could be on a timer.
Ouch...that's gonna leave a markBack to the furniture, shrubs, stray animals, and homeless for heat!
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