So far, it looks like the Osburn 2400 looks to be a good choice for me so far. Good size viewing window, well liked brand (as far as I can see here), and it's a wider stove (E-W log orientation, N-S ones tend to be narrower) for the big opening.
There is a local dealer (actually a town away) (broken link removed to http://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/Osburn_2400_Osburn_Stove_Osburn_Wood_Stove_p/obo2411.htm)
Stove is $1,779
Blower $230
Black door overlay $150 (says required)
$2,159
Check out the Chimney Liner Kit Sale on the site above... the salesman said the sale would more than make up for the tax, said since they are not installing it, tax would have to be collected. Thanks.
I took some measurements:
The flue flap opening is 5.25" X 43" = 225
The fireplace opening is 43" X 90" = 3870
= 5.8% percent.
That is quite a nice looking stove. About double what I was looking to spend though and I really need a blower to push the heat forward, away from under the hood.
This stuff is relatively new to the market. Preinsulated double wall. Most folks would recommend the insulation wether you install it on the outside or the factory sandwiches it between. I see Osburn wants $249 for the insulation.
(broken link removed to http://www.fireplace-chimneystore.com/forever-flex-insulated.html)
I would plan on a large block off plate set as low as is reasonable as part of the installation. The big hood is designed to trap smoke. With the stove there it is also going to be a heat trap. You don't want that. Or put a large grille in at the top to release the heat. Another option would be to remove it entirely.
I would remove the hood and do something visually nice with the sloppy brickwork repair. Maybe hang some cool metal wall art there?
Are you going to insulate the flex?
OK, so that Osburn price is damn good. Since my damper flap opening is 5.25", I should be able to trim a bit on the top and bottom to make a round hole for the liner to pass through. Hopefully the flex liner doesn’t add too much outer diameter OD to the 6" flex. I suppose the best route would be to take out the flap, install the flex pipe, and make up two pieces to fill in on either side of the flex pipe, perhaps out of sheet steel and rivet in place?
Excellent point, this is something to really consider.... Some of the brickwork is a bit sloppy behind that metal hood. A large block-off plate may be the best route to take. Opinions appreciated.
Your big hood dilemma is an interesting question. Obviously it's a heat trap but just how bad is that? Would'nt trapped heat then be forced to overflow anyway? Yes the heat will eventually be coming out from underneath that hood but at what temp? I don't know. I find it an interesting question.
The fan will help greatly in getting the heat out and away from the stove. The fan just may start a circular pattern of flow that will help pull that air out from under the hood. Don't know. Hey you can always run a snorkel up from the fan into that hood and get preheated air. LOL
You've had some good compliments on that fireplace. It is unique. I personally would begin where you started and assess the situation from there. A block off plate for the hood is no big deal. Tearing it out is a bigger deal. Bottom line it's your tastes that need to be satisfied.
Same issue as with the big Kuma, BK King etc. 8" liner.What about the Regency F5100 - it's pretty big and should throw a ton of heat.
Thanks for the reply Jo. I am not going to remove that hood, the fireplace is the first thing people notice when they come into the room. Good points about the hood... a conventional fireplace fire gets the hood hot, this will be the same thing, just keeping the fire encased in a metal box (wood stove), the fan will bring the bulk of the heat forward and away.
Is the oval liner more difficult the clean, or would it be the same as a round, just use a oval brush instead. Also, how important is insulating the liner? Is the double-ply not enough?
Thanks again,
John
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200578244_200578244
that would be my choice for that space. How can you go wrong for a grand?
Good for the hood. A wise and economical decision. I have a rather unique home myself, if it's different I like it.
Women go GaGa for unusual things too willing to wager you know what I'm talking about. Anyhow,,,,,,
As I said this is one of those rare instances where as a mason I will not object to that damper assembly being permanently altered. That choice comes down to you. Is resale price an issue to consider? The ability to market it in both original form and as a woodstove hookup could be something to consider.
Back to the liner. I'm the wrong person to be asking. My first year with any liner,un insulated but so far so good. Others report problems with blockage even with insulated.
If you like the Osburn take a look at the Enerzone 3.4 too. It's also made by SBI. The 3.4 is almost as wide as the Osburn, but has greater depth. You will appreciate having the flexibility of loading E/W or N/S.It's a big heater, but still takes a 6" flue.
(broken link removed to http://enerzone-intl.com/en/heaters/solution-34)
Thank god women like unusual things... unusual sums me up pretty well.
When it comes to the damper, there appears to be enough room on the top and bottom of the flap to cut out allowing for the round flue, if ever selling one day I could weld the piece back in, spray flat black on it and no one would ever know.
Ah... I never knew that insulated liners resulted in less build-up. I brush the 6" stainless flex liner on my Napoleon 1401 liner a couple times a year, get about a half gallon of black stuff raining down into the stove, which reminds me, I have to clean out that rail thing in the middle with the holes, probably all crapped up.
So decision made it sounds like. It's a good choice. Time to get the stove.
PS: the Osburn 2400 is a N/S loader too. The firebox is 19.375" deep and 13.5" tall, though you will not load that high.
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