Which saws do most of you use
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Honesty must prevail here. If you get an Stihl, Echo, Husky, etc... they all have lines similar to one another. If you buy a pro grade saw it will likely give you service expected for a price. Make your choice based on your local servicing dealers and the level of service they provide. Even if you do not wish to buy a pro grade saw and want a Homeowner grade saw or a mid grade saw, buy it from one of these dealers. That way you can avoid the watered down, "Big Box Store" versions they offer.
I love my Stihl MS361! And, would recommend it to anyone who wants that grade of saw (if there was a local dealer convenient to them that gave good service as well).
The dirty little secret about chainsaws is that either great skill or a good grinder that provide you with consistently SHARP chains is required to make both the cheapest and high end work for you.
I love my Stihl MS361! And, would recommend it to anyone who wants that grade of saw (if there was a local dealer convenient to them that gave good service as well).
The dirty little secret about chainsaws is that either great skill or a good grinder that provide you with consistently SHARP chains is required to make both the cheapest and high end work for you.
Any power saw is better than a hand saw.
I find times I still use the hand bow saw.
I find times I use the 34 year old 14" craftsman
I mostly use the 27 year old 20" Husky 61.
It all depends on where you live & what your needs are.
If I were to buy a new saw, Stihl 361 or a Husqvarna 460 for my needs.
But for now the old husky is still doing the job I need, & can still get parts if needed. Service is an important feature.
Been here?:
http://stihlusa.com/productselector/saw_selector.html
or
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/products/chainsaws/husqvarna-chainsaws-for-landowners/
I find times I still use the hand bow saw.
I find times I use the 34 year old 14" craftsman
I mostly use the 27 year old 20" Husky 61.
It all depends on where you live & what your needs are.
If I were to buy a new saw, Stihl 361 or a Husqvarna 460 for my needs.
But for now the old husky is still doing the job I need, & can still get parts if needed. Service is an important feature.
Been here?:
http://stihlusa.com/productselector/saw_selector.html
or
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/products/chainsaws/husqvarna-chainsaws-for-landowners/
Stihl 290. Yeah, it's heavy but it rips right through the logs and sounds lovely doing it. In the NW we get 290s from stihl equipped for our trees with the 3/8" chain and 20" bars.
I bought a little used ms290 with an 18" for 180 off CL with a carry case. Its only my second saw and feel its a very capable saw for bigger cuts. Its not a hot rod. Its a little heavy for limbing. I use a smaller, older saw for that. If you need a saw for everything, I would get a lighter one. I like redundancy and variety with tools.
well, I had mostly cut my wood with hand me down Poulans and Mccullochs until this year. Then I found out how smooth a more expensive saw can be. I still run my 14" Poulan, but I feel like I am riding on top of a solid mount hardtail Sportster or something..... you can get the tinglies in your hands quite easily with it.... that said, it does cut well.
Well for fathers day my wife blessed me with an Echo CS440. It is VERY smooth and cuts great. Well things snowballed.... I bought a woodstove and have become a compulsive firewood junkie.
Now I just upgraded again to a Makita 6401 (pics below) I have not sunk it into any logs yet (just got it last week and have been neck deep in a bathroom remodel...if you look on my arm you can see drywall dust)
The Makita is a horse! But ooooo so smooth and powerfull. Yes I know the 28" is overkill for that saw, but I bought the bar and chain for the day when I jug the saw to 80cc. I just bolted it on for pic time. Most of the time it will sport a 20".
Most of firewood can be done with a 18"-20" bar, however there have been times when a 20" has been stretched to the limit..... so I says to my self, "self.... as long as your buying chainsaws.... might as well go BIG, since you have small and medium already!"
Well for fathers day my wife blessed me with an Echo CS440. It is VERY smooth and cuts great. Well things snowballed.... I bought a woodstove and have become a compulsive firewood junkie.
Now I just upgraded again to a Makita 6401 (pics below) I have not sunk it into any logs yet (just got it last week and have been neck deep in a bathroom remodel...if you look on my arm you can see drywall dust)
The Makita is a horse! But ooooo so smooth and powerfull. Yes I know the 28" is overkill for that saw, but I bought the bar and chain for the day when I jug the saw to 80cc. I just bolted it on for pic time. Most of the time it will sport a 20".
Most of firewood can be done with a 18"-20" bar, however there have been times when a 20" has been stretched to the limit..... so I says to my self, "self.... as long as your buying chainsaws.... might as well go BIG, since you have small and medium already!"
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I have a ECHO 370 . I have been cutting with people who swear by their Stilhs and Huskys. In many respects I think the Echo is superior.
I've been using a Mac and an older Echo for the past few years, but just bought a Stihl MS270. What a difference!! I haven't used it that much, but I'm impressed so far with the anti-vibration and the power.
The 270 is a nice saw, but I've never been able to justify one. what lead you to that particular saw? I ask because its only benefit over the 290 (for example) is weight. and that extra 1.3lbs less costs about $70 bucks and you loose half a horse in power by dropping those 6ccs.twitch said:
Given my current state, don't know when / if I'll ever be able to swing it (or any chainsaw for that matter) again, :-/ but I still swear by my Dolmar 7900, - easy starting, smooth, cuts like a light-saber, and works great with a 20" bar for most things while being able to drive the 28" for the occasional "monster log"...
For it's size class, it is also a very light weight saw, I frequently use it for limbing if I'm in a mixed wood situation. My 36cc Pull-on w/ 12" bar is a lot lighter, but it vibrates so much it puts my hands to sleep w/ less than a tank of gas, and the short bar means I have to work while reaching out a lot more, which negates the weight advantage...
That said, I think that if one is looking for a "one-saw" solution, there is a lot to be said for the Dolmar 5100, or other saw in the 50-60cc class w/ a 16-18" bar for normal use, and a 24-26" bar (maybe w/ a skip chain) for the occasional big wood.
Gooserider
For it's size class, it is also a very light weight saw, I frequently use it for limbing if I'm in a mixed wood situation. My 36cc Pull-on w/ 12" bar is a lot lighter, but it vibrates so much it puts my hands to sleep w/ less than a tank of gas, and the short bar means I have to work while reaching out a lot more, which negates the weight advantage...
That said, I think that if one is looking for a "one-saw" solution, there is a lot to be said for the Dolmar 5100, or other saw in the 50-60cc class w/ a 16-18" bar for normal use, and a 24-26" bar (maybe w/ a skip chain) for the occasional big wood.
Gooserider
Danno77 said:
The advanced AV system comes with the 270 - makes it a real smooth runner. Also if you have to rebuild your saw the difficult MS290 "clam-shell design" (according to my brother who recently rebuilt a 290) is a real pain compared to the 270/280. That said, the 290 is a real bargain for the power, but maybe not for the weight.
I have a 455 Rancher and love it.Again its all in what you like and if there are any good dealers in your area.
I have a stihl 250 and a makita (dolmar) 6401 the 250 is great for small and medium stuff up to 15-18 inches but just does not have the power for larger stuff . The makita with a 20 bar just blows right thru everything I have tried it on 36" mol maple , oak and mulberry.
I have an 18 bar on the 250 but it would be probably run even better with a 16. I put the 18 when going with the one saw plan but it just bogs down in the bigger stuff. Husky makes good saws but buy one of the dealer models , I am not sure but the big box models do not seem to be the same quality and the dealer I know gets boatloads of them as refurb units indicating a high failure rate.
I have an 18 bar on the 250 but it would be probably run even better with a 16. I put the 18 when going with the one saw plan but it just bogs down in the bigger stuff. Husky makes good saws but buy one of the dealer models , I am not sure but the big box models do not seem to be the same quality and the dealer I know gets boatloads of them as refurb units indicating a high failure rate.
I really probably use my 2 bucking saws the most the 026 and the ms360 .One of my ms180's is used by my old man , he refused to buy a decent saw . He has been cutting about 6 full cord a year with that thing for the past 6 years . My other 180 I use for brushing . My 024 is my old original stihl and I run a tank a year thru it just to run it as I am keeping it for a shelf item . I use the 260 pro and the 361 for felling the 260 pro mostly for limbing but some felling . The 460 comes out on the occasions of anything over 20 inches .
Personnally I think everyone should be on a 2 or 3 saw plan . If I was on a 2 saw plan it probably would be a 260 16 inch bar and a 361 with a 20 inch bar .
The 2 saws I find the most fun to cut with are the 180 because its so light and the 460 because of its power .
Personnally I think everyone should be on a 2 or 3 saw plan . If I was on a 2 saw plan it probably would be a 260 16 inch bar and a 361 with a 20 inch bar .
The 2 saws I find the most fun to cut with are the 180 because its so light and the 460 because of its power .
For the money I would pass on either the 455 or 460 Rancher and buy a 346XP. For an additional $20-$80 you'll have a saw that will last longer, turns up faster, and has the same horsepower but weighs 2 lbs less than either Rancher.
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