Stihl MS 290 vs Husky Question
- Thread starter Caw
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Doublebogey
Burning Hunk
Yeah I did. The problem was he must have hit a nail or rock or something and there were a bunch of uneven teeth. I did the best I could to repair and match but it's really just easiest to get it fixed in a machine.
So after working all day with the MS 250c I have a bunch of thoughts on it:
1. The extra power is noticeable. My 440 has a 41 cc engine and 18" bar with 17" being exposed for cutting. This MS 250c has 45 cc, 18" bar, with only 16" exposed for cutting. The 10% more power and shorter bar makes it feel significantly more powerful. The tradeoff is it's slightly heavier but that's fine.
2. It has the easy start feature which SUCKS. I hate it. It's finicky and more trouble than it's worth. It's not hard to start a 50 cc engine the regular way. If you can't do it you probably shouldn't be using a chainsaw in the first place. I will never buy a saw with this feature.
3. The old school Stihl file is ok. The 2 in 1 took looks cool I'd buy that if I went Stihl next saw. I enjoy the simplicity of the Husqvarna file guide but they both work fine.
4. Not a huge fan of the plastic crank case opening mechanism or the tiny gear for tension adjustment. It's kind of flimsy and a pain to use with gloves on. I prefer the simplicity of the husky bolt and screwdriver mechanism. I always have a chainsaw tool on me anyways if I'm cutting.
5. Minor thing here but it has a larger gas tank and bar oil reservoir for a similar sized saw. The screw caps are easy to use.
Once I got it in working order and looking past the horrible easy start feature I was impressed with the saw. It showed me that I definitely want something more powerful in my saw collection. I love my 440 for things that are in the 14" or less range which is probably 70% of what I get. It's light, plenty powerful, and easy to use. However for the other 30% that's in the 16-28" range (I almost never get anything 30"+) I'd love something in the 55 cc and 20" like a Husky 455 Rancher or Stihl MS 291.
1. The extra power is noticeable. My 440 has a 41 cc engine and 18" bar with 17" being exposed for cutting. This MS 250c has 45 cc, 18" bar, with only 16" exposed for cutting. The 10% more power and shorter bar makes it feel significantly more powerful. The tradeoff is it's slightly heavier but that's fine.
2. It has the easy start feature which SUCKS. I hate it. It's finicky and more trouble than it's worth. It's not hard to start a 50 cc engine the regular way. If you can't do it you probably shouldn't be using a chainsaw in the first place. I will never buy a saw with this feature.
3. The old school Stihl file is ok. The 2 in 1 took looks cool I'd buy that if I went Stihl next saw. I enjoy the simplicity of the Husqvarna file guide but they both work fine.
4. Not a huge fan of the plastic crank case opening mechanism or the tiny gear for tension adjustment. It's kind of flimsy and a pain to use with gloves on. I prefer the simplicity of the husky bolt and screwdriver mechanism. I always have a chainsaw tool on me anyways if I'm cutting.
5. Minor thing here but it has a larger gas tank and bar oil reservoir for a similar sized saw. The screw caps are easy to use.
Once I got it in working order and looking past the horrible easy start feature I was impressed with the saw. It showed me that I definitely want something more powerful in my saw collection. I love my 440 for things that are in the 14" or less range which is probably 70% of what I get. It's light, plenty powerful, and easy to use. However for the other 30% that's in the 16-28" range (I almost never get anything 30"+) I'd love something in the 55 cc and 20" like a Husky 455 Rancher or Stihl MS 291.
I got this chain for my ms250 and it's pretty good for under $15.
18'' Chainsaw Chain Blade Full Chisel .325 Pitch .063 Gauge 68 DL For STIHL 843718103638 | eBay
Roller Chains Sprockets Conveyor Chain Corrosion Resistant Chains Leaf (Forklift) Chain Specialty Chains Agricultural Parts Chain Accessories Pillow Block Bearings Ball Bearings Shaft Collars Chainsaw Chains Spindle Assembly Mower Pulleys Mower Belts Auto Parts Go Kart Clutches Motorcycle Chains...
www.ebay.com
I have the older MS 250
No easy start.
Regular bar nuts and screw on mine, same as the 029.
New aftermarket chain (which is fine) for $15 is hard to beat.
Got to follow starting procedure to a T. If you pull on full choke even 1 time after it burps it will hinder the start. It's actually an easy saw to start once you've got it down. Maybe it's different with the easy start, but i thought that was just an "Easy Pull".
So far, I've never met a messed chain I cannot fix with files. Unfortunately I mess a lot of chains....cutting in sandy land and clearing fencelines will do that. And then there's the occasional really bad hit..
There is no need whatsoever to have every tooth the same length. It's only important to have each tooth the same height relative to its raker. Even not having the exact same profile on every tooth, while not desirable or particularly efficient, does not keep a chain from cutting reasonable fast and/or straight. The only depth gauge I am aware of that's worth the metal it's made of is the husky progressive raker gauge. They are a ridiculously overpriced piece of tin, but make consistent raker settings easy.
There is no need whatsoever to have every tooth the same length. It's only important to have each tooth the same height relative to its raker. Even not having the exact same profile on every tooth, while not desirable or particularly efficient, does not keep a chain from cutting reasonable fast and/or straight. The only depth gauge I am aware of that's worth the metal it's made of is the husky progressive raker gauge. They are a ridiculously overpriced piece of tin, but make consistent raker settings easy.
Last edited:
That's why i recommended the head lamp magnifier. You need to Clearly see the edge being formed with the file. BBR shows it in Very High detail. This can't be seen with the naked eye. Sure loggers can do it without the magnifier but they are True Pro's with very honed skills. All you need is a magnifier to be as good as those Pro's.
Once you've run a Dolmar 420/421 makita 4300 you will see how a spring-assist starter is supposed to work. All others are inferior.
Many people pull on a spring starter the same way they pull on a regular starter. That can be a problem for starting ease and for the mechanism.
Ms250's are notoriously hard starters, but are a surprisingly decent saw for what they are: a way, way-overpriced cheaply built, finicky rascal.
Many people pull on a spring starter the same way they pull on a regular starter. That can be a problem for starting ease and for the mechanism.
Ms250's are notoriously hard starters, but are a surprisingly decent saw for what they are: a way, way-overpriced cheaply built, finicky rascal.
I might have to get something to help me see...cause sometimes I can't! When I forget my readers and have to sharpen my chain blind it's a bit of a crap shoot. But you can feel it in the file to a certain extent.
Some of them are. It's mostly a technique thing. I think they are one of those saws that are best on a cold start to give it a pull or two before you even set the choke, cause it might start.. my 5105 is like that.
My limited experience with a couple of 250's tells me that I would like to have one, but certainly not at nearly 500 bux cad. It's a 300 dollar saw at best.
$337 for 20" refurbished on the official Husky ebay page. They sell a lot of saws through there. Does make me wonder why they've sold 1,646 refurbished 450s, though.
Even less expensive than the reconditioned $379 at Northern Tool.
Last edited:
Yikes $500 in Canada? that's out of line for sure. I see them for 370-400 here in US. But agree that's still a bit much for this saw. That's why i got a used one that was in very good condition. Even still i paid $200.
Speaking of $300 saws - out of curiosity I had to take a look. When I was looking, a small engine mechanic said go with the Echo Timberwolf, you won't be disappointed. He was right. Newish Echo cs-590s are in your general area. People buy them, don't use them much, and then sell them. This saw will out cut those rancher/farmboss saws (sorry owners). I saw another slightly used one for $250 but don't remember where it was.
https://boston.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=echo cs-590#search=1~gallery~0~0
https://boston.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=echo cs-590#search=1~gallery~0~0
I've never had any issues sharpening by hand before. I've been doing it forever and gotten pretty quick. It's a nice break from cutting. This one was just a mess and rather than waste more time I just had it done. First time in 10 years of cutting I brought a chain in. I don't regret it at all though, my time was better spent working elsewhere.
Yeah the 250c is a great little saw for $300 but not good value for $500. I'd rather pay a little extra and get a 55cc engine and 20" bar looked a 261 or a husky rancher. That'll handle any size yard tree log delivery very easily. I got my husky 440 for $300 pre COVID and gotten my money's worth, it doesn't owe me anything. Once I get a a bigger saw I'll still use it for the smaller stuff.
The starter is just whatever. Yes if you follow the processor to a T it does work and it's less effort than a standard start saw but that doesn't mean it's a good product. I did it more annoying and finicky than it's worth and starting a standard 45 cc engine is very easy standard pull. It's not some 20 hp snowblower you're going to throw your back out pulling. Different strokes for different folks I guess. Give me a regular start saw any day.
Yeah the 250c is a great little saw for $300 but not good value for $500. I'd rather pay a little extra and get a 55cc engine and 20" bar looked a 261 or a husky rancher. That'll handle any size yard tree log delivery very easily. I got my husky 440 for $300 pre COVID and gotten my money's worth, it doesn't owe me anything. Once I get a a bigger saw I'll still use it for the smaller stuff.
The starter is just whatever. Yes if you follow the processor to a T it does work and it's less effort than a standard start saw but that doesn't mean it's a good product. I did it more annoying and finicky than it's worth and starting a standard 45 cc engine is very easy standard pull. It's not some 20 hp snowblower you're going to throw your back out pulling. Different strokes for different folks I guess. Give me a regular start saw any day.
Yeah i don't have the easy start and am just fine with my regular start. Kind of silly as the regular start is a breeze to pull. And i was just referring the start procedure to all stihl's. Don't know if the easy start changes that any?
It really is funny how husky guys stay husky, and stihl guys stay stihls. I guess that says something about each brand.
The regular start is not a breeze to pull on most of them. It's ridiculously hard fora 45cc homeowner saw.
Well i don't know what to say, maybe i'm just used to the 029 but that's not that hard either. Maybe it's because i do the drop start so the pull becomes much easier.
I couldn't start the 271 I went to look at in the neighboring town mentioned in a separate thread. Owner only used it three times. I was trying to start it like my older 181.
He brought it back to where he bought it. Started right up. I went back to check it out. One pull on full choke. Flip to half choke. Started on next pull.
He brought it back to where he bought it. Started right up. I went back to check it out. One pull on full choke. Flip to half choke. Started on next pull.
It could be drop starting that makes it easier. I used to drop start. I do the between the legs method now.
Many people have starting trouble with the 250. Probably most of that is self induced. I had no trouble starting the two I ran, but was surprised by how hard the pull was.
They pulled about the same as my late 80's, early 90's saws.
I would say that the 290 is an easier pull than the 250. I ran one of those about a week ago for the first time...
Many people have starting trouble with the 250. Probably most of that is self induced. I had no trouble starting the two I ran, but was surprised by how hard the pull was.
They pulled about the same as my late 80's, early 90's saws.
I would say that the 290 is an easier pull than the 250. I ran one of those about a week ago for the first time...
