Where should I buy my stove?

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The regency 5200 and the BK King 40 have about the same approximately 50,000 BTU per hour listed for burning high. (Even if listing numbers is not all that reliable.)
In the end these stoves don't deviate much from each other even if the technology is different (e.g. triple burn in regency), and details do differ. Most variety is still in what wood you load, how full you stuff the firebox, and how strong your draft is.
The 5200 is listed at 80000. The king is about 48000
 
If you have another heat source that is good at shoulder seasons, you might consider a tube stove.

A cat stove can put out decent BTUs but is also good at lower outputs in the shoulder season. So, if it has enough output to satisfy your needs during the coldest days, you could do all your heating with it.

Or you could do 95 pct of your heating with it and supplement during the 5 coldest days with a little bit of oil.

There are other stoves that can output more than a BK. But do you want/need to size your stove for the few coldest days or do you want to be able to heat with it during the many shoulder season days without having to go for intermittent fires or be roasted out of your home.

The bottom line is what do you size your stove output for. Most of the days, or the 5 extreme cold days - when one might not reach the wished for 68F but only 64 F or so if one doesn't use a bit of oil or propane or so.
64 is our ideal temp. That's where we keep our oil furnace thermostat normally all winter.
 
The guy sounds like he knows I’m his stuff I’ve been waiting to talk to a people like this in these chats. Question if you could. Even though you think I’m probably some dopey lol. I know my epa stoves just haven’t been around cats much other than an old earth stove i grew up with

I’ve had the Lopi liberty and the quad 5700. How is the firebox the same size but the liberty put out much more heat, it’s confusing because the quad gets up to high temps just like the liberty. But my upstairs was 72-74 with the liberty. But with the 5700. It’s 66-68
 
An b holer. Only reason I had thought that was if you have a big space to heat and one stove is getting up to 700 I understand it doesn’t stay there. But let’s say 5-700 for hours compared to 3-450 for long hours. If you heating a big space by the time that air travels to deep ends of the space it cools off much faster than it does coming out at 700.
When my stove is at 400 in my house it can’t come close to keeping up its like it’s not even barley on
 
The 5200 is listed at 80000. The king is about 48000

I think that this is selectively quoting incomparable numbers.

Regency says the (EPA...) tested BTUs per hour max are 47081. The 80000 is *calculated* based on wood weight etc.

For BK King, the cordwood max BTU (according to the cordwood test method) is 51000 BTU. I understand that to be the measured number, with "the cordwood test method" being the (going to be defunct...) EPA testing procedure.

It seems to me that you are comparing a calculated number to a measured one.

I also note that your experience (BK puts out less than ...) is voiced often by you, but that there is little confirmation by other users that have switched..
That does not take away the validity of your experience, but it does call into question the generality of that statement. (See every install is different.
.)
 
I think that this is selectively quoting incomparable numbers.

Regency says the (EPA...) tested BTUs per hour max are 47081. The 80000 is *calculated* based on wood weight etc.

For BK King, the cordwood max BTU (according to the cordwood test method) is 51000 BTU. I understand that to be the measured number, with "the cordwood test method" being the (going to be defunct...) EPA testing procedure.

It seems to me that you are comparing a calculated number to a measured one.

I also note that your experience (BK puts out less than ...) is voiced often by you, but that there is little confirmation by other users that have switched..
That does not take away the validity of your experience, but it does call into question the generality of that statement. (See every install is different.
.)
The EPA numbers are reached by testing with the firebox loaded to a set density. That equates to about 1/2 a load of wood. So the BTU numbers are not at all representative of real world output.
 
Sure, but that affects the numbers for both stoves equally.
 
Jeez. Every thread turns into an off-topic firewood thread.
 
Sure, but that affects the numbers for both stoves equally.
Not when you are comparing the regency EPA numbers to the numbers produced by blaze king. The kings EPA number on high is 34000.
 
You are still comparing incomparable numbers. The 80000 is calculated, which you compared to a measured one.

For the OP to decide what stove, that is information that is not useful.

Let me then state things differently. The King can have 80 lbs of wood. The 5200 90 lbs. Assuming insignificant efficiency differences (as most well-designed modern stoves), and assuming one can burn down that load in the same time (12 hrs?), the regency has about 12 pct more BTUs per hour in output. Not ~50 pct (50 k to 80k).
 
You are still comparing incomparable numbers. The 80000 is calculated, which you compared to a measured one.

For the OP to decide what stove, that is information that is not useful.

Let me then state things differently. The King can have 80 lbs of wood. The 5200 90 lbs. Assuming insignificant efficiency differences (as most well-designed modern stoves), and assuming one can burn down that load in the same time (12 hrs?), the regency has about 12 pct more BTUs per hour in output. Not ~50 pct (50 k to 80k).
Ok look at how the two stoves work. The blaze king has it's max output controlled by the thermostat and doesn't have secondary air tubes in the firebox. This leads to much more even heat across the burn but also limits max BTU output.

The regency isn't controlled by a thermostat and has air tubes in the firebox. Those air tubes don't come into play much when burnt on low the box is just smouldering at temps to low for secondary combustion there. But when the air is opened up the secondaries kick in drastically increasing the firebox temps giving higher temps over more surface area. Now the down side is much less even heat output.
 
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The 5200 is listed at 80000. The king is about 48000
To be accurate, they were not tested using the same method. Also, the 80k you mention is in-house calculas. Our in-house calculus numbers are closer to 60k. Neither is comparable, because tremendous assumptions are being made.

Method 28R, which will become popular again after EPA's announcement in the Federal Register tomorrow (EPA has withdrawn the cordwood method due to serious concerns) uses dimensional lumber. The test is over when the scale reads zero, meaning all the test fuel has been consumed.

The cordwood method tests are deemed over when 80% of the fuel load is consumed.

The "as tested Btu's" are based upon the above.

So, if you put 200,000 Btu's into a stove and burn it in 4 hours, and tested using the now no-longer available cordwood method, you get 50,000 Btu's/hour.

In the second stove, you put in 200,000 Btu's and burn it in 8 hours, on the crib method, you get 25,000 Btu's.

See, you can't compare numbers from brochures or stoves tested to two different methods.

What you can do is say what your personal experience has been, which you have done so.

My personal experience is mine. My King heats 2,850 square feet better than 2 other stoves from other manufacturers that were nearly as big that we used prior to my King's.

EPA has acknowledged they are disturbed how some companies have used buoyed figures to laud-over other manufacturers numbers. The FRM (Federal Reference Method) is a few years out....but will hopefully address these deficiencies.