when the door is open the smoke comes out

[2wheels]

My stove is like the one in the attached picture
The stove has always had a problem with smoke coming into the room when the door is opened, at least in the 2 years we have been using it.
I have searched, researched, talked to many people including stove installers , sweeps.
Cleaned, added 4 feet to the outside stainless (ICC) chimney, so it is 6 feet above the peak now. This helped but did not fix.

I have noticed my stove has a tiny gap for the smoke to go above the baffle.
Other Pacific energy super 27 have a much larger gap. (i think)

Is my stove a early unsuccessful version?

I have tried to contact PE but no response. The company that installed the stove does not exist anymore.

 

[jatoxico]

Where is it in the house, basement, first floor of 2 or 3 story house? Exterior or interior chimney and what type?

 

[begreen]

The Super 27 is an easy breather. Normally it's not too fussy about chimney height. Measure the gap above the baffle and post it here so that others can compare. I would expect it to be around 1.5" - 2". Have you pulled the baffle out to verify that the flame shield is properly in place?

 

[huauqui]

There should be a tag on the back of it that has info about it. Could you give us that info? It might help us date the stove for you. begreen's suggestion is where I would start too. make sure the baffle is installed correctly and measure that gap to give us a starting point. These are great stoves with great reviews hopefully you can get this sorted shortly. Also more information on the actual chimney would help, things like height, number of elbows along with pictures really helps us to see what might be going on.

 

[2wheels]

thanks
The stove is in the basement, I know that is not the best. It is a single story house.
The chimney is stainless (ICC) outside. So 2 elbows, one inside the house in the black stovepipe and the other outside in the T at the bottom.

The baffle has been out a couple of times, both to clean and inspect, never seen a problem. It is exactly as you see in the picture of my 1st post.

I know other people that have the same (well i mean similar) stove but there's looks this this with a 2 to 4 inch gap for the smoke to get above the baffle. see picture

 

[jatoxico]

Normally I would also suspect the baffle but since you said you had mult cleanings inspections etc I figured that would've been caught. You have 2 strikes that can contribute to negative pressure and smoke roll out. 1) the basement install 2) cold exterior chimney. Other appliances like dryer or furnace may also compete.

Try opening a window in the basement and see if the smoke roll out lessens.

 

[2wheels]

You are exactly right about the 2 strikes against me on this installation. I may never fix it, but will keep trying.
Problem always happens about the same, most the time the close dryer is off. The furnace (oil) rarely runs. But neither seem to have any effect.

Opening a window even for 5 minutest before opening the stove makes no difference to the smoke. Which is why I am questioning the actual stove design.

 

[jatoxico]

So you've been doing your homework on this. Does it happen all the time or only on startup or when the fire is dieing down (i.e. cold/cool chimney)?

 

[2wheels]

I have been at it since we bought the house, things that don't work properly bug me.

It happens all the time, even with a hot fire (600 F at the chimney thermometer) going. Of course to kind of smoke coming out changes but the amount of smoke that comes out really does not change hardly at all.
Outside temperature and wind don't seem to have much effect either.

( I do NOT normally open the stove when a hot fire is going, but I have tried it. Just to see)

 

[jatoxico]

Any major heat losses upstairs, especially to the attic like attic stair or other? Sealing those may help. I know one of the pros here suspects air cooled (non-insulated) chimney pipe as well but I would guess once its to temp that would be less of an issue.

 

[NhRocks]

I have a 2013 Pe Super 27, series d. The gap on my stove measures 2". No significant smoke issues. Basement install with internal, 2 story chimney.


Pe Super 27

 

[2wheels]

You are covering all the bases, much quicker than I .
But we had 2 leaks upstairs (main floor) one was an attic door (with the folding stairs built in) I was sure that was the problem so I sealed it all up, insulated above, weather stripping for the lid. The second was the upstairs fire place / chimney which we just had a new (Pacific Energy)True North TN20 insert installed with the chimney liner all new and installed correctly. This stove burns great, by the way.
So both of these fixed and neither made any difference to the basement stove. I was heart broken.
House has all new windows and doors withing the last 10 years I would guess.

"I know one of the pros here suspects air cooled (non-insulated) chimney pipe " I'm not sure what you mean here? The chimney does run outside but it is insulated.

 

[2wheels]

I have a 2013 Pe Super 27, series d. The gap on my stove measures 2". No significant smoke issues. Basement install with internal, 2 story chimney.


Pe Super 27

I know other people that have this 2" gap for the smoke to get above the baffle.
Mine doesn't but all I can say is - I want one like that. LOL

 

[jatoxico]

The chimney does run outside but it is insulated.

Wasn't sure exactly what type of chimney you had. Cold exterior chimney is a contributor to the problem and uninsulated would be that much worse. You have insulated so that's that. If the chimney ran inside the building it might work, work better or still be a problem. Not an easy thing to fix as you're learning. Is there a lotta twists and turns in this chimney, correctly sized for the stove?

 

[2wheels]

Chimney is 6 inches all the way and is this -
http://icc-chimney.com/en/excel

From stove to cap there are 2 90 degree bends.
The chimney inside the house would have been better but I am beginning to think it would not fix my problem.

 

[jatoxico]

Chimney is 6 inches all the way and is this -
http://icc-chimney.com/en/excel

From stove to cap there are 2 90 degree bends.
The chimney inside the house would have been better but I am beginning to think it would not fix my problem.

Any way you can ease those 90's? Picture(s)?

 

[2wheels]

Here is a old picture of inside the house. That 90 degree was replaced last summer with 2 45 degrees.
Outside the house the 90 is the T (with clean out) so I cannot change that.

This picture also shows the baffle out for cleaning.

 

[Highbeam]

Do you have a screen in the cap?

 

[2wheels]

Do you have a screen in the cap?

I removed the screen this fall. Did not help my problem.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

Here is a old picture of inside the house. That 90 degree was replaced last summer with 2 45 degrees.
Outside the house the 90 is the T (with clean out) so I cannot change that.

This picture also shows the baffle out for cleaning.

It looks like a very poor fit where the stove pipe enters the stove top. I'm not sure if this was fixed (or made worse) when the 90 was replaced with two 45's but it doesn't take much of a leak to kill a draft that is already weakened by the two 90 bends. Depending on the brand of stove pipe, there can be quite a significant leak at the rolled seam and, if the pipe isn't inserted fully, or it's inserted at a slight angle, the leak can be magnified.

 

[2wheels]

Good eye. Actually the new pipe is a worse fit then the one in the picture.
We are going to have a warm spell this weekend, i will fit a new pipe here. This time i will make it tighter.

If you look at the picture i attached in post #5 then look at this picture. It seems to me the heat shield is not in the right position. It is not in the slot, so it is way to low. What do yous think?

 

[huauqui]

I had a warped upper heat shield on my Summit that I had picked up used. It was an easy fix to replace and very inexpensive. You may want to try that. If I remember mine it went in above the window wash air intake along the front to hold it up and was fixed in place by a single bolt that was accessed by taking the chimney pipe off. The warped one had dropped down below it and had pinched the exhaust air flow down a lot. Hopefully that is your problem, you should be able to tell quickly as it should be all but tight against the underside of the top of the stove. Let us know what you find as this is a good stove and I/we hate to see it being a problem for you.

 

[2wheels]

T

I had a warped upper heat shield on my Summit that I had picked up used. It was an easy fix to replace and very inexpensive. You may want to try that. If I remember mine it went in above the window wash air intake along the front to hold it up and was fixed in place by a single bolt that was accessed by taking the chimney pipe off. The warped one had dropped down below it and had pinched the exhaust air flow down a lot. Hopefully that is your problem, you should be able to tell quickly as it should be all but tight against the underside of the top of the stove. Let us know what you find as this is a good stove and I/we hate to see it being a problem for you.

If i understand you about the heat shield, then this may be exactly what my problem is. My heat shield , the part you can see at the front of the stove, is below the thing (window wash shield) and should be above.
I will find out this Saturday when i take it apart.

 

[huauqui]

T


If i understand you about the heat shield, then this may be exactly what my problem is. My heat shield , the part you can see at the front of the stove, is below the thing (window wash shield) and should be above.
I will find out this Saturday when i take it apart.

I hope it is that simple for you. Again mine was a summit so YMMV. But hopefully someone with your stove will chime in.

 

[2wheels]

I hope it is that simple for you. Again mine was a summit so YMMV. But hopefully someone with your stove will chime in.

Actually mine is a Summit as well, i thought it was a super but i messed up.