Huh?
He has three stoves. And he is being a smart azz.
Got into a conversation with my wife when she came home from work just after I put a full load into the 30. Forgot about the 30. Came running into the room to the stove top at 790.Hottest part of the top plate that I can find will generally read between 550-700, depending on the load. My air settings are basically always within a 1/4 of an inch of a certain spot on the handle. The temp will vary depending on how much fuel I put in, how I loaded the wood in, and how hot the coals were I loaded on.
pen
Got into a conversation with my wife when she came home from work just after I put a full load into the 30. Forgot about the 30. Came running into the room to the stove top at 790.
Closed the air down quickly in short stages, got the fan going and the stove top didn't get any hotter. It was mighty warm in that room for a while...
I always run my fan on high, so lastnight I wanted to try something different so I loaded the stove and put the fan on the lowest setting. The stove crept up to 625 as measured on the stove top and was radiating heat like never before so I decided to leave it and went to bed. ( I loaded 2 ash splits with one small black locust split on that, this was at 9pm house was around 72 degrees) I got up for work at 4am (19 outside temp) the house was at 71 and the stove top was at 275ish and I still had one ash split that had the shape of the split but fell apart once I hit it with the poker, I also had not one bit of charcoal it was all fluffy ash. The fire box was cleaner than ever before, sure my bricks always look like new but even in the corners of the bricks were clean and the ends of the secondary tubes were crystal clean. So I loaded the stove again and left the fan on low and went to work. Im thinking for whatever reason that running my stove with the blower on high was killing the effiecency of the stove and the burn. I will keep doing this and see how it goes.
Got into a conversation with my wife when she came home from work just after I put a full load into the 30. Forgot about the 30. Came running into the room to the stove top at 790.
Closed the air down quickly in short stages, got the fan going and the stove top didn't get any hotter. It was mighty warm in that room for a while...
The problem with closing it down completely, that fast, with that much going on in the firebox, is that you risk a woofing of some sort. Where everything builds up in the stove and kind of freaks out.I would suggest not doing it in stages...but shut that air down...right away. I've done that...and it takes longer for it to take effect. I love my damper for that reason!
What's woofing? You mean administering air back into it? I've never heard of that...and it's the only way...I've been able to get my temps stabalized and on the way down. I've tried the slow way...and the temps will continue on the rise!
This is what we call burping on the big green egg! And even tho...it's only because of administering air back into it to soon.
I have no idea.
So the best way would be to get the fastest way to cool down would be to close it down with both the inlet air and damper...than crack both??? To keep the woof away??? haha
Just don't let the fire rage out of control, then slam the air shut. Only way to keep the woof's at bay is to close the air down in stages as the stove is warming up. If I find that I'm an hour into a burn, the air has been closed down for 30 mins and the temp is still climbing, then I start closing down the pipe damper.
Once that firebox is hot, the wood will be out gassing. Normally it has enough oxygen to burn. However, if it's hot enough to out gas, and there isn't sufficient oxygen for it to burn, the flammable gasses will build up in the stove. The "woof" will happen when it just so happen to get enough air or just right right spark.
If I made a mistake, and didn't turn the air down quick enough during the initial start-up, an option is to close the pipe damper, and close the air down most of the way, but make sure you still have flames. Never close things down so much that the fire stops as that's a recipe for it to "woof"
Another option with dealing with an initial start that has gotten out of control is to open the door right up (you must stay in attendance of course) for a min or a few. This stops secondary action, sends a ton of air up the chimney, and basically turns your stove into an inefficient open fireplace where the extra movement of air will cool things down. Once things are controlled, then I close the door, close the pipe damper, and turn the air down as far as it takes to keep things controlled but not out.
pen
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.