Many stoves have multiple air inlets. Separate primary and secondary inlets to block. The stove in front of me now has four separate holes! Often they are hidden in back since they aren’t meant to be accessed.
As far as I know there's only one hole in my modelMany stoves have multiple air inlets. Separate primary and secondary inlets to block. The stove in front of me now has four separate holes! Often they are hidden in back since they aren’t meant to be accessed.
Yes it is amazingIt's amazing how small the intake hole can be for a controlled fire.
If that line doesn't vent directly into the stove then the foil tape is causing the stove to pull air through all the little holes and cracks instead of doing what you are trying to accomplish.Where the stove meets the fresh air line
That line does go directly to the stoveIf that line doesn't vent directly into the stove then the foil tape is causing the stove to pull air through all the little holes and cracks instead of doing what you are trying to accomplish.
You must have another area the stove pulls air from if that isn't making any difference.That line does go directly to the stove
Ok should there b more than one spot. Looked in manual found multiple locations to mount the fresh air but I installed the fresh air kit and only used the one knock out. Other knockouts were still intact. Should I call the sbi rep?You must have another area the stove pulls air from if that isn't making any difference.
At this point I would give them a call and see what they recommend.Ok should there b more than one spot. Looked in manual found multiple locations to mount the fresh air but I installed the fresh air kit and only used the one knock out. Other knockouts were still intact. Should I call the sbi rep?
Yep, on mine there are two knockouts that are available for the fresh air intake. Somehow it still gets air with both knockouts still intact. Maybe tape over the other locations?Ok should there b more than one spot. Looked in manual found multiple locations to mount the fresh air but I installed the fresh air kit and only used the one knock out. Other knockouts were still intact. Should I call the sbi rep?
Cant get to the locations now that its installed.called sbi today he didn't have a answer for not getting the other tube out. He said somewhere its gotta be leaking air. I checked the door gasket and the glass gasket they are good. Not sure what else to do.Yep, on mine there are two knockouts that are available for the fresh air intake. Somehow it still gets air with both knockouts still intact. Maybe tape over the other locations?
I'd definately ask them how to get that 3rd tube out.
Cant get to the locations now that its installed.called sbi today he didn't have a answer for not getting the other tube out. He said somewhere its gotta be leaking air. I checked the door gasket and the glass gasket they are good. Not sure what else to do.
I agree. Yes I take the baffle out.Are you taking the baffle out when you try to remove the back tubes?
If not, it's going to be in your way when you try to remove the tubes in the back. My procedure for removing the tubes is to remove the front two, remove the baffle, then remove the back two. Keep track of the order so you can put them back in the same way. I should have asked this before.
Use a channel lock or vice grip to get ahold of the tube. Be careful not to crush the pipe if using a vice grip.
If after you have removed the baffle, and used a wrench, and still can't get the back two out, then have the dealer send someone out to install the washers (assuming they are local). This is what they should have done to begin with.
The stove might have a crack or a missed weld if it is still leaking a lot of air. I would be removing all the firebricks and inspecting everything very close for gaps that look like they shouldn't be there.Cant get to the locations now that its installed.called sbi today he didn't have a answer for not getting the other tube out. He said somewhere its gotta be leaking air. I checked the door gasket and the glass gasket they are good. Not sure what else to do.
Should I b doing that even though I just bought it in November. I feel I payed a lot of money that they should come out and inspect itThe stove might have a crack or a missed weld if it is still leaking a lot of air. I would be removing all the firebricks and inspecting everything very close for gaps that look like they shouldn't be there.
They should be doing it. I thought it was new to you not brand new.Should I b doing that even though I just bought it in November. I feel I payed a lot of money that they should come out and inspect it
Yup you are correct, I did install the front block off plateThis has been a puzzle and I like solving puzzles.
So I looked at the owners/installation manual online. On page 78 in the section on installing the fresh air intake it stated the front air intake has to have a blocking plate installed (behind the lower decorative louver on the front),
"Flip the fireplace’s lower decorative louver.
Install the blocking plate (F) included in the kit, on the front opening of the air control housing.
Using a screwdriver, secure with two screws."
You might look behind the louver and make sure they blocked off the front air intake.
https://sbiweb.blob.core.windows.net/media/4415/45919a_30-07-2018.pdf
I know right. But knowone what's to do anything about it. They keep telling me to put 5x5 pieces in. Well I spent a lot of time to cut some that big and to go north and south like the said and still the same burn times.They should be doing it. I thought it was new to you not brand new.
Have you tried completely blocking off the intake where you are applying the tape? I might try that, and if if won't burn at all, poke a small hole then try again, increasing the size hole a little each time until you achieve your goal.I agree. Yes I take the baffle out.
Thanks. I almost had it blocked fully. Maybe a half an inch. Burn times were the same just the temps were a little lower also very frustrating. As my wife and I put a lot of time and money. With high Hope's of cutting our heating bill.Have you tried completely blocking off the intake where you are applying the tape? I might try that, and if if won't burn at all, poke a small hole then try again, increasing the size hole a little each time until you achieve your goal.
If you block it all the way and it still burns too fast, then you'll need to consider where else the air is getting in.
What a pain for you, sorry it's come to this.
It's a lovely setup, total downer that it's not working up to specs.Thanks. I almost had it blocked fully. Maybe a half an inch. Burn times were the same just the temps were a little lower also very frustrating. As my wife and I put a lot of time and money. With high Hope's of cutting our heating bill.
Lol perhaps I will try all of those suggestionsIt's a lovely setup, total downer that it's not working up to specs.
I'd still try covering it all the way, just to see what happens. Half an inch is still a lot of air, particularly if air is coming in from somewhere else.
Beyond that, I'd keep on the manufacturer. Perhaps they have a dealer nearby (preferably the installer) who would come out and get those last two tubes out and install the washers that they engineered to solve your problem. If you really want to go Clint Eastwood on them, figure out how to correspond with SBI senior management. I'd start with a letter or email to the president/CEO. That will get their attention.
My stove rarely gets dark glass, but what seems to be a coating of fine ash. My firewood isn't quite dry enough so I mix it with bio bricks. The coating is easy to clean with a damp paper towel, but I've always wondered if there's a way to prevent it.
Is it a symptom of over powerful draft?
I believe it is
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