Vogelzang All cast iron box wood stove. Worth it?

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Also, even though it says it can take up to 25" logs, I wouldn't put anything over 22" because it is nice to have a little distance from the viewing window and air inlet, to the coals/wood.
And is nice to have some short pieces, under 12", so you can stack a load crosswise and save time between moving logs around. Otherwise if you load it full all lengthwise, once it burns down a little, they'll compact and cutoff airflow.

Saftey wise, this thing seems good. Has a lip to catch anything backfireing out the air inlet, but that would be a 180 degree trip and nothing has in the last three weeks of operation. Still, floor protector is recommended 18" from front. I have minor chimney issues, needs a few more feet I think, but wind hasn't been a big problem, and I've had plenty of it.
Now if you have a bed of coals, load it up, and leave choke on for 20 min or longer, then you are probably in serious risk of overfiring. Other than that, it has felt safe and doesn't seem to be cheap because it is 'cheap' but because it is utilitarian and probably very easily manufactured, judging by design and lack of frills.
 
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They work well in the yard for canning and for scalding chickens during butchering.

They don't work well in any structure that can burn.
 
I had a vogelzang Durango EPA stove and it almost burned down the house with a run away coal bed! In short the wind picked up outside and the coals super heated next thing I know I can't stop the stove. I ended up covering the secondary air after shutting the main air turns out this is more common than you think from what I have researched. The difference in my vogelzang and a better stove is the cheap air control it is totally useless and dangerious. Stay clear of vogelzang !

Pete
So do you have a chimney height problem? I get some wind, it kicks stuff up a little, but nothing compared to opening the inlet all the way. I have a chimney that is probably 4ft too short to be 2ft above point 10 ft away....2ft above point 6ft away just doesn't cut it.
I agree, the air control leaves something to be desired.
You must have had a big bed of coals! The only time I've been worried about overfiring is when I'm combusting all the volatiles (the first hour or so after loading), that seems to be when she's really smoking...When it's all coals, I'll have to open up the air inlet just to keep it hot enough. But I have yet to get a bed deeper than an inch or two at most.
 
This thread is over a year old and the poster you are asking the question is not a member any more.
 
I didn't know there was a shelf-life on threads. What is it? In other forums I visit, mods close threads when not to be used further. Sory.

How do I tell if someone is a member still, from what I can tell the guy I asked is still a member. Where do I look?
 
"How do I tell if someone is a member still, from what I can tell the guy I asked is still a member. Where do I look?"

The line through the user name means they have left the building.
 
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isn't the "boxwood" the stove referred to as the" VZ deathbox" in posts past?

VZ is doing better with their "epa line" they still have some work to do but its a massive leap from the boxwood to the units they are making now.

if they wanted to float enough cash someone might be persuaded to help them design a line that would make it past the newer EPA guidelines. . .
 
it doesn't?

"How do I tell if someone is a member still, from what I can tell the guy I asked is still a member. Where do I look?"

The line through the user name means they have left the building.


? Not sure if you were just being funny . . . but I don't see any line through anyone's user name.
 
? Not sure if you were just being funny . . . but I don't see any line through anyone's user name.

We will have to check it. It may be that only Mods see the line. Thanks for bringing it up.
 
If you are looking for a cheap box stove for a cabin heater find a good condition Jotul F602, F118, Morso 2B etc. Or get a new steel box stove like the four dog stoves. http://fourdog.com/

Note that these stoves a highly radiant and will need 3 ft from combustibles or proper NFPA 211 wall shielding to reduce clearances.
 
On my 3rd winter with my Vogelzang EPA line of stove"The Performer" its called, works fine. Early last fall I tried to find cracks and such, signs of wear and could not find any issues.

Vogelzang is a nice option for an economy stove that works well if you buy their UL EPA line of stoves. I got mine 3 years ago onsale at Menards for $599.

Everyone tries to bring up that cheap non-UL listed and non-EPA $120 stove they make, as an example so they use it for reference for all things Vogelzang. Plus its a China made stove and that doesnt sit well with most people.

Vogelzang was bought out by US Stove last year I think.

The nice part about it I was able to get me a wood stove and a Huskee wood splitter and paid for it all in one winters worth of savings. I just couldnt rationalize going to wood if it was going to take 3 or 4 years to break even. Kind of like the hybrid car debate. I was lucky to already have a flue in place.

That durango and your learning curve on it it pretty much par for the course in coming up to speed on these EPA type secondary air tube stoves. Not really just a Durango stove thing.

The thing about the durango you could most likely get a good cigar type burn going if you rake your coals forward. That way when you put in those long pieces of wood as it will take a 24" length split, the burn starts up front since you raked your hot coals to the front so no hot coals are in the back of the stove. THe fire will last longer since it has to burn its way to the back.
 
Comments have drifted off topic. The query and concern is about the inexpensive box stove. That unit is crudely made and has had dubious casting failures in the past so it is hard to recommend from a safety and controlability standpoint. Craigslist always has these stoves for sale used with bone white sides showing certain overfiring. That directly relates to the crude air control on them.

So far the larger EPA VZ stoves seem to be ok heaters and the issues with the cheap cast iron box stove are not related.
 
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The thing about the durango you could most likely get a good cigar type burn going if you rake your coals forward. That way when you put in those long pieces of wood as it will take a 24" length split, the burn starts up front since you raked your hot coals to the front so no hot coals are in the back of the stove. THe fire will last longer since it has to burn its way to the back.

Learning curve :)

Yeah, ran into some not so seasoned wood the other day, and now have spent a few hours since cruising the site.

I was pushing the coals in the back because I was letting it burn out overnight and get cold, and I have just a little piece of metal for a scoop, so I didn't have to reach over hot coals. Then the I read some more, now rake coals to back,I scoop out warm and rake the coals to the front, let get hot, add wood. Tools are on the list.

I just got scerrd :( when Pallet Pete went on about the VZ Deathstove, combined with the general 'You couldn't pay me to run a VZ', but then I explored and feel safe as I'm going to in this rental...I think the stove is the least of my worries here.
 
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Yeah VZ stoves ain't the top of the bragging order but the EPA certified and UL listed ones will heat your house and, if properly installed, not burn the joint down.

The key being properly installed.
 
They make lovely planters !
 

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