Used P61, What's My Next Step?

[GMadd]

If you look at this photo it looks like there is creosote build up on the part of the auger on the back chamber side next to the auger motor. Does this imply that the auger bearing is leaking smoke? Or does it imply something else? Or is it nothing? Thanks.

 

[Don2222]

If you look at this photo it looks like there is creosote build up on the part of the auger on the back chamber side next to the auger motor. Does this imply that the auger bearing is leaking smoke? Or does it imply something else? Or is it nothing? Thanks.

The auger bearings are sealed and part of the auger. The best design and durability I have seen in a pellet stove. The creasote there does not indicate anything but what I do is clean it all up with a wire wheel on your drill driver and you can also spray the auger with dry moly for extra lubrication. After it is clean just spin the bearing and make sure it spins smoothly with not hiccups or glitches. If it is not smooth spinning then replace the auger. They really do not cost that much for their superior high quality! Let us know.
Also Harman states it is not necessary to add any high temp silicone when re-installing your Auger.
See pics of one of my Harman Augers here
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...een-cleaned-in-over-10-years-see-pics.168620/
Also check for any Harman Auger Pox! See pics
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/holy-harman-auger-pox-batman.109241/

 

[GMadd]

After 5 years of replacing that little white plastic auger bearing every season on My Magnum Baby, hearing that the Harman auger bearing design is the best makes me pretty darn happy! I'd like everyone to take a moment of silence to observe the mouse who gave it's life so I can get this P61 for such an amazing price.

Thanks for all this info! I going to clean up the auger and check for any Pox. I'll let you know how it goes.

The auger bearings are sealed and part of the auger. The best design and durability I have seen in a pellet stove.







not indicate anything but what I do is clean it all up with a wire wheel on your drill driver and you can also spray the auger with dry moly for extra lubrication. After it is clean just spin the bearing and make sure it spins smoothly with not hiccups or glitches. If it is not smooth spinning then replace the auger. They really do not cost that much for their superior high quality! Let us know.
Also Harman states it is not necessary to add any high temp silicone when re-installing your Auger.
See pics of one of my Harman Augers here
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...een-cleaned-in-over-10-years-see-pics.168620/
Also check for any Harman Auger Pox! See pics
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/holy-harman-auger-pox-batman.109241/

 

[DAKSY]

Harman pellet stoves. Built like a tank & run like a Cadillac.

 

[alternativeheat]

I probably would have cleaned the mice out, wire brushed what ever I could get at without disassembly and fired the sucker up. It might have run another 20 years.

 

[GMadd]

So I thought I remembered everything but can you guys help me with the orientation of this piece under the auger motor. Not sure what it is but it has a wheel and the set screw for the auger. Is it put on properly? It must spin with the auger and move the pusher arm? Thanks!

 

[DAKSY]

Looks like you've got it in there correctly.
Here's mine:

 

[GMadd]

So I fired it up in my driveway today. It actually works great. EXCEPT: When I shut it down everything seemed to go ok but that after the flame dying down the combustion blower never turned off. Is this normal. I had to unplug it to get it to turn off. Otherwise everything seemed to work great.

 

[Ssyko]

It could take quite a while for the stove to cool off enough for the fan to shut off. Lots of metal has to drop temperature.

 

[alternativeheat]

So I fired it up in my driveway today. It actually works great. EXCEPT: When I shut it down everything seemed to go ok but that after the flame dying down the combustion blower never turned off. Is this normal. I had to unplug it to get it to turn off. Otherwise everything seemed to work great.

I've seen my P61a take 40 minutes to fully shut down, everything has to drop temp before the combustion fan will shut off. When I clean the stove I kind of force the issue by scraping hot pellets off the burn pot and cracking the ash pan door open a bit to help cool things. Actually that's a good time to brush down everything up top.

 

[MountainDweller]

Not a Harman guy yet, but enjoying this thread. Speaking of threads, as a general rule of thumb, I'll often try to tighten stuck nuts and bolts up a little bit to break them free before backing them off. Also when reassembling, turning them backwards until they click/jump before tightening makes sure that they are properly threaded and won't cross-thread on you!

- Nathan

 

[GMadd]

So the ESP in this old stove is held in by a bolt with a nut inside the exhaust pipe. This can't be right, no? Every time you clean the pipe you'd have a heck of a time with that. What's the proper setup? I imagine tapping a slightly wider screw right into the pipe, no? The nut just seems wrong. To make it worse the nut is rusted to the bolt so I'm going to have to cut it off. Thanks.

 

[alternativeheat]

So the ESP in this old stove is held in by a bolt with a nut inside the exhaust pipe. This can't be right, no? Every time you clean the pipe you'd have a heck of a time with that. What's the proper setup? I imagine tapping a slightly wider screw right into the pipe, no? The nut just seems wrong. To make it worse the nut is rusted to the bolt so I'm going to have to cut it off. Thanks.

I clean my esp with a nylon bottle brush, I never remove the esp. And I brush out the passage with a rag tied to the end of an old broken off rod to my pellet stove brush set. It's just fluffy ash in there, both in the passage and on the esp. My esp hasn't been out since the first year we put the stove in. At least 5 years anyway since I've pulled it out.

Well anyway, ya if you want to lose the nut then I guess tap some bigger threads.

 

[GMadd]

The room temperature probe just has bear wire at the end. How do I connect this? Splice on a plug?see picture with link below. Thanks!


https://photos.app.goo.gl/y84eaAzaXaewK15n8

Hi everyone. I bought an old Harman P61 on Craigslist for $75 after consulting with Don from East Coast Hearth (Thanks Don!). The previous owner told me that they think it needs a new combustion blower because they heard a thud then it started smoking. I'm totally new to Harman so don't know much about diagnostics. Suppose I should turn it on and see what happens? Or should I just buy a new combustion blower and hope that their guess is correct? Thanks.

Here's some photos from the Craigslist post: https://photos.app.goo.gl/16opTtVo1cYJBaGm9

 

[PeteFromMaine]

Did I read that right? You got a Harman P61 for $75 bucks?! Also, the Room Sensor probe ends should look like this. https://tinyurl.com/y5aeyxx7 Also, the ESP probe is indeed supposed to be connected that way. I pull mine out every year during my deep clean and LIGHTLY brush it down and clean it off. I have a backup esp on hand if needed but never had to use it in 5 years i've been running my P38.

 

[Tonyray]

So the ESP in this old stove is held in by a bolt with a nut inside the exhaust pipe. This can't be right, no? Every time you clean the pipe you'd have a heck of a time with that. What's the proper setup? I imagine tapping a slightly wider screw right into the pipe, no? The nut just seems wrong. To make it worse the nut is rusted to the bolt so I'm going to have to cut it off. Thanks.

agree.. NO REASON to remove the ESP probe.... later Harmans had a small self tapper that held it in place and much easier to remove but still not necessary].
it basically collects ash dust and as a poster here said, get a bottle washer [bristle type] and go back/forth gently on the probe to clean it.