US stove company buyer beware
- Thread starter Chops
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What was the reason to change the harness? If the connector fits and the harness is good it should work. I would see if the harness they sent you would actually fit the board? If not then will the old harness connect? If so, use that one if it's good.
New harness has 5 wires onto the molex plug to circuit board the old one had 4. Plus one wire is different color code than other. Thank you us stove
What will the new board accept? 4 or 5 wire plug? Probably will have to look at the wiring schematic to see what it should be. Is there a difference from the old board and new board on how many wires should be on the plug?
Oops my mistake there's five wires on both plugs. There color code is different. I'm have trace each wire one at a time.
Ahh just that the wire color codes are different and a few of the wires are a lot longer than the old one. The plastic conduit protecting the wires is a good 6 inches longer also making it look totally different. I'm take a break from this thing getting pissed with it
Well I replace with the parts thay sent. Isn't working. During test exhaust fan isn't running correct. Kinda goes varoom and dies. Like a pulse. Augar doesn't work but the male side of the plug was loose on auger and that may be the problem there with auger. I sent e mail explained the problem becouse there nobody there to talk with at this time. Told them I'd like a replacement or refund. Dealing with us stove is quite stressful at best.
I don't know for sure but I do know a lot of USSC stoves the exhaust fan pulses until the temp gets to a certain point. Mine does and then once it's up to burning good it is steady.
Well it's weird becouse if I open the front door to were the burn pot is it runs steady. Close it it runs in a pluses
Yes, that's how it is supposed to work. It loses vacuum so the exhaust fan kicks in full time to stop smoke from getting into the house. Also the light should blink above the Draft Fan buttons when the door is open, showing loss of vacuum. That light should not blink when the door is closed.
Lake Girl
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Lake Girl
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FirepotPete, thanks for sticking with Chops on this
I'd second the jack if I didn't hate it!!
I'd second the jack if I didn't hate it!!
Not a problem. I remember 10 years ago, if not for a forum like this my stove would have been on the curb after 2 months!! And jack isn't my favorite, I'm more of a Dopple Bock fan myself, 4 years in Germany and my taste buds just never could go back to what is called beer in N. America.FirepotPete, thanks for sticking with Chops on this
Something wrong. I started it up. Fan was running steady pellets drop ok.pellet start to lite and then fan did the pulse thing. Like little breath could see flame pick up then stall. So I hit on button and fan pick up and ran fine. But got smokey in room could see smoke coming from exhaust at exhaust blower. So I hit off button and it shut down. Shouldn't it run to clear smoke inside burn pot area?
Not if it hasn't reached operating temp. It will only run long enough to clear the auger of pellets. Smoke coming from the exhaust and blower? Is it blocked? Do you have RTV on the exhaust pipe joints?
Yes pipes are sealed and it shouldn't be blocked. I wished I bought another Summer heat made by England it's so easy to run and had little problems with it. Oh when I shut it down it didn't run at all not even to clear pellets as you say. Push the off and it was off.
If it turned right off then it wasn't anywhere near operating temp or the auger would have spun for a few minutes. You will have to track down the exhaust leak. Can you post pics of where it's coming from?
I don't know how to post a pic. But leak is at the point where exhaust pipe connects to the exhaust motor.
Is that pipe coming out of the stove tapered? I've never seen one like that. How about a pic from a little further away?
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I don't beleave it is. It's the same type set up as my other stove. So answer is no it's not tapered
OK, I see what you've got now. I guess if everything is twisted tight you probably need to run more RTV around the joints to seal it off better. I know my connection is smeared up pretty good because when I take it off every spring it's a challenge.
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