Unknown trailer weight limit guesses

[Dregan]

Hi all. I have a trailer that I bought a few years ago which I intended to use only for light scrounging and hauling my DJ equipment around to gigs. It is a home-built single axel, using an old camper (not a pop-up) as the frame. The frame is 10.5' x 6.5', which I'm guessing were the original dimensions. It has leveling stands in the rear, c-range tires rated at 1175 @ 50 PSI max (that are inflated to 35#, per manufacturer label on the tire) and the whole frame is made from 2" x 3" square tube steel - not c-channel or i-channel, full tubes. It has wiring for a brake controller, but I've never used that. The guy I bought it from added 12" and board rails, and I added 4' framed panels (more so people wouldn't see the DJ equipment) all the way around.


Any guesstimates as to how much weight I can safely carry? I've had about 3/4 of a cord of mixed cherry, oak and hickory in it before with no problems. I'm going on a run this weekend to get slabwood, and the guy is going to load me up with whatever I can carry away at once for $45, in front-loader scoopfuls. How many scoops do ya think I can carry?

I can't see anything on the axel indicating a weight rating, but I may not know where to look, either.

 

[smokinj]

just a guess 3500 lbs

 

[SigElec]

Based on your tires being rated at 1175 lbs, then you would be maxed out at 2350 lbs.

 

[JustWood]

Based on your tires being rated at 1175 lbs, then you would be maxed out at 2350 lbs.

Exactly!!

 

[flyingcow]

1175 sounds right. BUT what are you hauling it with? 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, etc?

 

[moosetrek]

The axle weight rating should be about as follows:

2" steel tube, 5-lug 15" wheels is a 3500# axle. However, as stated you cannot exceed the lowest part of the assembly - it this case your tires (which must be aired to the 50# to get your full weight rating - never run them at 35# under load, you can overheat and cause a blowout).

3" steel tube:
- 6-lug is generally 5,200 lbs
- 8-lug is generally 7K

3.5" tube with 8-lug is 8K

If you have pics I can tell you better. 3/4 cord of hardwood was likely well over the ratings of the tires. Also, what's the trailer weigh? I'd guess about 800-1200#? Don't forget to deduct that from the total rating to give you the cargo capacity. Also, check the ball size and the weight rating on the ball. Finally, if the frame is 2x3 tube, it's probably 1/8" and should be fine for what you're hauling, just distribute the weight evenly. How far apart are the cross-braces and what is the deck? Should be no less than 2' on center, and 2X6 or 2X8 for the deck.

 

[gzecc]

Moose, What a great answer!

 

[moosetrek]

Thanks, trailers are a hobby - just finished rebuiling a 24' gooseneck. No expert, but you make enough mistakes and pick things up along the way.

 

[Tony H]

I think somewhere I read that the 4 lug 13" on a 2" tube are 2000lb rated and that would be in line with your tire rating. The other thing I noticed with my small trailer a converted 2 place snow mobile is the springs were worn from use and compressed a bit much at 2000lb and cause the frame to rub on the tires and cause early failure.

 

[ROBERT F]

How thick is the metal that the tubes are made from? Ive seen little 1000 pounders with some pretty thin construction. even the slightest corrosion causes the trailer to fall apart. Pictures would help. BTW, I can put load range E tires on a half ton pick-up, but that dont make it a one ton all the sudden. The tires are just one of the parts of the equaision. Dont load above the rated capacity of the lowest rated piece of equipment in use.

 

[Dregan]

Thanks for all the replies.

I forgot to mention that they are 4-lug 13" wheels and that the trailer weighs in at 684 pounds (we have to weigh home-built trailers for reg in Ohio - and this was before I added the walls and LED lights and front wheel, so add maybe another 50 pounds to that). I haven't taken my calipers to the steel but I'm guessing it's either 12 or 14-gauge. There is some surface pitting on the underside for the frame, but it's in good shape - no penetrative corrosion. the corss braces on the frame are about 2' apart, made from the same steel as the frame itself, and the floor is 1' ply which has gotten several layers of Rustoleum, both from me and the guy who (re-)built the trailer.

I'm guessing I should keep to under a ton at a time, probably 3-4 scoops from the front loader (loose stacked cut slabwood, should total about 1500 pounds)

Next spring's big projeject: new 5,000-pound axel/springs. I can get one for ~$200 or so, plus wheels. That way I'll be able to handle an entire cord at a time, safely. I should also build new fenders at the same time, too...

I'll try and post pics. Like any homebrew project, it's a work in progress. Still not too happy with the doors I put on...

 

[moosetrek]

Sounds like a plan - you might want to think about making the axles match the pulling vehicle - in our case, a 3/4 ton truck with 8-lug axles and our trailers are 8-lug 7-8K axles. I can use all my older tires on the trailers, and if I ever need a spare on either I just grab the one off the truck/trailer and they interchange. With 5,200# axles you'll be looking @ 6-bolt hubs, so a toyota, chevy 1/2 ton 4x4, nissan, etc. will be a way to always have good trailer tires cheap when you buy new truck tires.