Uncontrollable flame

[EatenByLimestone]

I have used tile saws and angle grinders to cut firebrick.

 

[scaryflame]

So this is what I would typically start my fire with.. 1 or 2 logs at the bottom then kindling on top. Manufacturer says DO NOT load fuel above the tertiary air inlet holes at the back of the firebox which I take it are those holes just at the kindling?

 

[joop]

jeez at least fill the first row lol

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Do you see 2 other areas air can enter? That might be secondary.

 

[joop]

can your log fit n/s

 

[joop]

you do know that with that amount of wood your burn is going to last about 20 min max

 

[joop]

fill inside box to top with your splits put kindling on top,it's going to burn up fast anyway then do your procedure for shutting air.see how it goes

 

[scaryflame]

jeez at least fill the first row lol

Hahaha. But scary flame!

can your log fit n/s

Some do actually, pic attached!

Do you see 2 other areas air can enter? That might be secondary.

I can't - I'll search again ...

you do know that with that amount of wood your burn is going to last about 20 min max

Yeah my stove aint getting up to temp at all recently.

fill inside box to top with your splits put kindling on top,it's going to burn up fast anyway then do your procedure for shutting air.see how it goes

How about this.. this will be the most I've ever put in it starting off.

 

[joop]

go for it, once the kindling burns put 2 more decent splits on top and then work it like usual.if you haven't lit it yet put three big splits on top of other big splits and just a few small pieces of kindling and let her go

 

[scaryflame]

Ah lad - this is a small room, 4m x 4m... I'll bake haha

 

[stoveliker]

Possibly, but not for sure.
The heat output of a stove is governed by the burn rate of the fuel in there. The burn rate is limited by the amount of oxygen that's available. So even with a stove stuffed full with three times as much wood, if the air can be restricted enough, it won't produce three times as much heat per hour - instead, it will produce heat three times as long. (Many caveats here, but that's the general idea.)

Having the least amount of primary flame ("connected to/coming from" the wood), and the only flame coming from near the air holes at the top means you are limiting the oxygen like I mention above - there's not enough to have flames on the wood, but it's glowing and off gassing, and those gases ignite at the top. (This all assumes your chimney has the proper draft.)

Edit: For this to work, it is important to first get the wood to burn, i.e. run a bit higher, get primary flame, so the wood is hot/glowing/offgassing. Then dial down the air, and "switch" to secondary flame only (or mostly). The trick is to dial down at the right moment. Too late, and a lot of wood will be gassing at the same time and the room may get too hot. Too early, and you dont' have enough wood engaged in the combustion process to sustain secondary flame etc.

 

[joop]

what he said lol if it gets hot open window and sit in the kitchen with a cold brew.

 

[scaryflame]

I have used tile saws and angle grinders to cut firebrick.

I don'thave either of those, but can pick up a tile saw if needed.

what he said lol if it gets hot open window and sit in the kitchen with a cold brew.

Haha - yeah true.

So I chucked it on as it was, the birch at top burned fine but the Ash (3 splits at bottom) just did not burn well at all. Opened the door up and could hear hissing at one stage so this 'kiln dried wood' I was sold wasn't kiln dried. Though I did use a moisture meter on it, was around 16-18%.
Either way, haven't had the Ash burn well yet. Main thing is, the chimney didn't go up on flames, the opposite ha.

I WANT THE SCARY FLAME BACK!

 

[scaryflame]

Possibly, but not for sure.
The heat output of a stove is governed by the burn rate of the fuel in there. The burn rate is limited by the amount of oxygen that's available. So even with a stove stuffed full with three times as much wood, if the air can be restricted enough, it won't produce three times as much heat per hour - instead, it will produce heat three times as long. (Many caveats here, but that's the general idea.)

Having the least amount of primary flame ("connected to/coming from" the wood), and the only flame coming from near the air holes at the top means you are limiting the oxygen like I mention above - there's not enough to have flames on the wood, but it's glowing and off gassing, and those gases ignite at the top. (This all assumes your chimney has the proper draft.)

Edit: For this to work, it is important to first get the wood to burn, i.e. run a bit higher, get primary flame, so the wood is hot/glowing/offgassing. Then dial down the air, and "switch" to secondary flame only (or mostly). The trick is to dial down at the right moment. Too late, and a lot of wood will be gassing at the same time and the room may get too hot. Too early, and you dont' have enough wood engaged in the combustion process to sustain secondary flame etc.

Beast of a reply - need to digest it some more but thanks as always!

 

[stoveliker]

I don'thave either of those, but can pick up a tile saw if needed.

Haha - yeah true.

So I chucked it on as it was, the birch at top burned fine but the Ash (3 splits at bottom) just did not burn well at all. Opened the door up and could hear hissing at one stage so this 'kiln dried wood' I was sold wasn't kiln dried. Though I did use a moisture meter on it, was around 16-18%.
Either way, haven't had the Ash burn well yet. Main thing is, the chimney didn't go up on flames, the opposite ha.

I WANT THE SCARY FLAME BACK!

To properly measure with a moisture meter, you need to measure on the *inside* of the split - that's where the water is coming from that is hissing.

So you have to get your axe or wedge, and split two of the splits in half, and then push the pins in (along the grain) on the freshly exposed "inside" surface. The higher moisture content will be in the middle, as the wood dries from the outside in.

And preferably you have to do this with a piece of wood that is at room temperature (a good way to get it up to room temp is to simply have it lay in your living room for 24 hrs, and not near the stove).

 

[scaryflame]

To properly measure with a moisture meter, you need to measure on the *inside* of the split - that's where the water is coming from that is hissing.

So you have to get your axe or wedge, and split two of the splits in half, and then push the pins in (along the grain) on the freshly exposed "inside" surface. The higher moisture content will be in the middle, as the wood dries from the outside in.

And preferably you have to do this with a piece of wood that is at room temperature (a good way to get it up to room temp is to simply have it lay in your living room for 24 hrs, and not near the stove).

Sweet - now I have to go buy an axe :D

Fiskars 25 or 27, what you think?

 

[TomMcDonald]

Sweet - now I have to go buy an axe :D

Fiskars 25 or 27, what you think?

27 definitely. Unless you're 5' or under.

 

[joop]

that ruined my weekend lol

 

[joop]

do you have a decent amount of wood for next winter.should be dry by fall

 

[begreen]

Do you see 2 other areas air can enter? That might be secondary.

It's terminology. They are calling the air wash secondary when it's really more like primary air. And the primary air on this stove is more like boost air for starting.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I was going strictly by the definition of the word. Tertiary means 3.

 

[stoveliker]

As in boost, primary and secondary?
1, 2, and 3... which we call secondary...

The point is that here we count by flame types, and there by number of air inlets...

 

[begreen]

As in boost, primary and secondary?
1, 2, and 3... which we call secondary...

The point is that here we count by flame types, and there by number of air inlets...

Yes, though they call them differently and not by flame types.