Oldhippie, your stove looks exactly like ours; same paint style. We love it.
How'd you know?Charley, it's almost like buying a Harley.. you become a member of a club!
This is the exact advice you gave me last year and it worked perfectly!Oldhippie, in case you have wondered, this is a good way to break in your new stove:
1. First fire. Up to 6 pieces of kindling (1" x 1" maximum). Light the fire (super cedar works great), leave the draft full open and just let it burn out.
2. Second fire. (Stove should cool some but should not have to be cold before second fire.) Same amount of kindling. No more than 2 small or medium splits. Light the fire and let it burn. After splits get burning good, close draft to about 50%. Let the fire go until it is out.
On the second burn you may or may not get hot enough to engage the cat but you should on the third burn. (200 degree stove top and 400 flue (measured on single wall flue pipe.)
3. Third fire. Stove should cool down some but no need to wait for total cold stove. Just luke warm. Same amount of kindling. This time 3-4 splits and light the fire. Stove top should reach 350-400. If the temperature goes higher, no worries. Again turn the draft down to 50% as on your second fire but after you feel the fire is good and established, turn the draft down to at least 25%. Let the fire burn itself out.
At this point you should be good to go with hotter fires. I'd suggest aiming for 500-550 on the next fire and finally to 600 or more. The stove should be ready for big time burning now.
Oldhippie, in case you have wondered, this is a good way to break in your new stove:
1. First fire. Up to 6 pieces of kindling (1" x 1" maximum). Light the fire (super cedar works great), leave the draft full open and just let it burn out.
2. Second fire. (Stove should cool some but should not have to be cold before second fire.) Same amount of kindling. No more than 2 small or medium splits. Light the fire and let it burn. After splits get burning good, close draft to about 50%. Let the fire go until it is out.
On the second burn you may or may not get hot enough to engage the cat but you should on the third burn. (200 degree stove top and 400 flue (measured on single wall flue pipe.)
3. Third fire. Stove should cool down some but no need to wait for total cold stove. Just luke warm. Same amount of kindling. This time 3-4 splits and light the fire. Stove top should reach 350-400. If the temperature goes higher, no worries. Again turn the draft down to 50% as on your second fire but after you feel the fire is good and established, turn the draft down to at least 25%. Let the fire burn itself out.
At this point you should be good to go with hotter fires. I'd suggest aiming for 500-550 on the next fire and finally to 600 or more. The stove should be ready for big time burning now.
This is the exact advice you gave me last year and it worked perfectly!
You should have one small fire at the beginning of each heating season to gently drive the moisture from the stone.. So I would at least have one or two small fires just to dry things out... I doubt they painted my old stove but you could ask,, the paint was all in good shape when I returned the stove... Maybe the give them a light coat before they go back out..
Do they repaint the refurb stoves? And if so, would that require a breakin fire or 2 ?
I took good care of her Steve, no over fires and broke it in with patience.. Yes you've avoided the break in smellJaime said "we didn't need to do much".
Dennis this is great advice, but I bought Charley's old Fireview as he has upgraded to a Progress, so this one is already broken in.. Charley took care of that for me! LOL... so I paid less as a refurb and get the full warranty. ...and it's all broken in! ...no stinky house for me.
Do they repaint the refurb stoves? And if so, would that require a breakin fire or 2 ?
You should have one small fire at the beginning of each heating season to gently drive the moisture from the stone.. So I would at least have one or two small fires just to dry things out... I doubt they painted my old stove but you could ask,, the paint was all in good shape when I returned the stove... Maybe the give them a light coat before they go back out..
I do realize what stove you have but was that stove not taken back to the factory? When that happens, they tear things apart and you really need to do the burn in this fall.
I certainly will Dennis. It will be easy because I'll be chomping at the bit to light a fire, and won't want to wait till it gets real cold.
Tomorrow I clean the chimney and install the flue pipe.. so first frost like days this fall we'll have a couple small burn in fires.
New cement?. . .in effect, you do have a new stove because of what they do to the stoves when they are returned. . .
New cement?
p.s. Kudos on fact-checking yourself, Dennis. You da man!
Well, here's the wrap-up. of the journey to the install.
The chimneysweep was here yesterday. He was very thorough, with the chimney. He got way too much creosote out of the chimney, at least a gallon. Most likely due in large part to the fact that I had the smoke dragon going quite a bit of the winter.
Then we installed the flue pipe. I decided against the damper. If I feel I need it, I can install it later or next season. I figure it is easier to install than "uninstall".
Amazing as this was, I did not have to cut the straight piece to size, the height of the Fireview, along with the 2 nineties I needed became the perfect fit. It's almost too pretty to light, and it is certainly too warm a day today. I'll do the break-in fires as it gets colder sometime later this month or early october for sure.
It sure is much prettier to look at. I love the way the color of the new carpet matches the wood stove. What a coincidence!
Very nice. Be honest, you got an interior decorator
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