Tow Vehicle Selection

[Bad LP]

Just please remember that getting it to move is one thing. Getting it to stop is another.
Don't forget the tire weight rating. A blow out and losing control will have that trailer making all the decisions on where you are going to stop and how.

 

[Ashful]

Just please remember that getting it to move is one thing. Getting it to stop is another.
Don't forget the tire weight rating. A blow out and losing control will have that trailer making all the decisions on where you are going to stop and how.

Guys, I appreciate the cautions, but I've been pulling trailers for 25 years, and riding in vehicles pulling them for 15 years prior to that. I understand tongue weight, axle weight ratings, and tire ratings. Actually, tire rating was one of my gripes with my old Dodge, as the factory tires didn't meet the requirement for their GVWR.

The trailer has brakes on all axles, and the vehicle will have a proportional electronic brake controller, and yes... I know how to set it up!

The Durango is short on rear axle weight rating, hence the WDH requirement to get to 7200 lb. But Highbeam, 1400 lb is right at the maximum tongue weight for a 7000 lb trailer. I usually aim for 10% on a trailer that heavy, so 700'ish lb. No trouble exceeding the Ram 1500 GVWRs at that level.

 

[Highbeam]

Guys, I appreciate the cautions, but I've been pulling trailers for 25 years, and riding in vehicles pulling them for 15 years prior to that. I understand tongue weight, axle weight ratings, and tire ratings. Actually, tire rating was one of my gripes with my old Dodge, as the factory tires didn't meet the requirement for their GVWR.

The trailer has brakes on all axles, and the vehicle will have a proportional electronic brake controller, and yes... I know how to set it up!

The Durango is short on rear axle weight rating, hence the WDH requirement to get to 7200 lb. But Highbeam, 1400 lb is right at the maximum tongue weight for a 7000 lb trailer. I usually aim for 10% on a trailer that heavy, so 700'ish lb. No trouble exceeding the Ram 1500 GVWRs at that level.

Ack, you're right 20% is for fifth wheels. 10% for bumper pull.

 

[Ashful]

I have a fifth wheel, but it's hanging under the bed, with a spare tire mounted on it. Lol...

 

[bholler]

Guys, I appreciate the cautions, but I've been pulling trailers for 25 years, and riding in vehicles pulling them for 15 years prior to that. I understand tongue weight, axle weight ratings, and tire ratings. Actually, tire rating was one of my gripes with my old Dodge, as the factory tires didn't meet the requirement for their GVWR.

And I pull trailers just about every weekday during the summer. And I can tell you that towing a trailer the size of yours will be much safer and easier on the vehicle with a 3/4 ton truck. Yes a 1/2 ton will do it but nowhere near as well. If you are ok with that fine but you couldn't get me to do it. Every time I have pulled a trailer anywhere near the capacity of the vehicle I have never felt comfortable that if anything went wrong and I had to turn hard ect. that the vehicle would do what I want. I am much more comfortable doing it in a 3/4 or 1 ton truck.

 

[maple1]

That might depend on the year & make.

The 3 year old F150 in the family tows a load a lot better than the 8 year old F250.

Or at least it feels that way - no idea why.

No contest though if your bigger one is a dually. Have one of those here too but unfortunately it has rusted away to almost being done for. REALLY should have sprayed it all those years...

 

[bholler]

That might depend on the year & make.

The 3 year old F150 in the family tows a load a lot better than the 8 year old F250.

Or at least it feels that way - no idea why.

No contest though if your bigger one is a dually. Have one of those here too but unfortunately it has rusted away to almost being done for. REALLY should have sprayed it all those years...

Probably tires they are the most important part

 

[Jags]

Folks - we are talking about a user that drags it around as a hobby, not a job. As stated several posts ago, the truck will only see a couple thousand miles per year and not all of those will be towing miles and it sounds like the vast majority is very local, slow speed. Just pointing out that we are talking limited usage on this rig.

 

[Ashful]

Folks - we are talking about a user that drags it around as a hobby, not a job. As stated several posts ago, the truck will only see a couple thousand miles per year and not all of those will be towing miles and it sounds like the vast majority is very local, slow speed. Just pointing out that we are talking limited usage on this rig.

You got it, brother! I put a holding deposit on this morning:

Ram 1500
5.7L Hemi
4x4 Crew Cab
Outdoorsman package
3.92 Posi rear

Thank you!

 

[bholler]

Folks - we are talking about a user that drags it around as a hobby, not a job. As stated several posts ago, the truck will only see a couple thousand miles per year and not all of those will be towing miles and it sounds like the vast majority is very local, slow speed. Just pointing out that we are talking limited usage on this rig.

Yes but he is still pulling a big trailer full of firewood. You can still have bad things happen close to home. Like i said it is up to him but i have never felt very safe towing much with a 1/2 ton

 

[Ashful]

Yes but he is still pulling a big trailer full of firewood. You can still have bad things happen close to home. Like i said it is up to him but i have never felt very safe towing much with a 1/2 ton

That's fine bholler, I won't hold that against you. The truck I am buying has a GCWR of 15,950 lb, and max trailer rating of 10,320 lb. My trailer is only 7000 lb, and I've towed it with much less of a truck up till now.

 

[Lloyd the redneck]

Here's an idea. Buy a 97-99 Chevy 2500. Put new motor Tranny rear end front end and bearings in it , for around 8000. It will be new again! And then use the money you saved to trade the sedan in on a hellcat or demon!

 

[Tar12]

You got it, brother! I put a holding deposit on this morning:

Ram 1500
5.7L Hemi
4x4 Crew Cab
Outdoorsman package
3.92 Posi rear

Thank you!

I think you made a excellent choice! My bud has a almost identical package and he put Firestone air bags under it..IMO its the best of both worlds...he has the extra stabilization and weight carrying capacity that the air bags offer when he NEEDS it and with a push of a button its back in "stock' mode. For what its worth I run a pair of Dodge 4x4 2500s...a 1996 that I bought new and a 1997...absolute work horses! The 1996 has a 8.0 under the hood with 216K on it and is a automatic and is my heavy duty hauler..you would cringe at what I have hauled and still haul with this old truck! I run a 360 in the other and it has a 4 speed granny manual in it...it will walk off with anything I ask it to...just a little slower than the big block! I have always ran quality 10 ply tires under them.No major repairs on either one...they just keep on ticking...must of got a couple lemons...lol

 

[Ashful]

Here's an idea. Buy a 97-99 Chevy 2500. Put new motor Tranny rear end front end and bearings in it , for around 8000. It will be new again! And then use the money you saved to trade the sedan in on a hellcat or demon!

You seem to be under impression that my choice of an SRT 392 had something to do with budget, or that wasting an enormous amount of time on an antique pickup truck to save a few dollars might factor in to my budget, but it does not. The reality is that the Hellcat does not have some of the options I was able to get in an SRT 392, and I didn't see much point in buying a far less reliable (but faster) car to strap to booster seats in the back and use as a kid hauler, which is what that car is for me.

Likewise, I could afford a new 2500, but do not want one. The 1500 is the perfect truck for my needs, namely getting the kids to school and me to work on snow days when I don't want to drive the SRT, and occasionally hauling my 7000 lb. trailer 10 miles or my boat trailer (only 1500 lb) longer distances. The 1500 with the 5.7L Hemi, 8HP70 trans, and 3.92 rear is far more fun and sporting to drive, than an antique 2500 with hauling capacity I do not need.

I went used because I found one with 9500 miles, and only put maybe 1000 - 1500 miles per year on this truck myself. When I am forced to sell this truck because it is rusting out at age 10 or 12 years, it will have under 20k - 25k miles on it. What's the point of paying an extra $12k to buy new, when that's the usage profile?

Everyone's circumstances and needs are different, so I'm not criticizing yours, just stating that what I got is the right choice for my needs and circumstances.

 

[Lloyd the redneck]

Right but 1-2k a year does not justify the 10000$ a year depreciation. That's all I'm saying. If you got money to burn. Burn it.

 

[bholler]

Right but 1-2k a year does not justify the 10000$ a year depreciation. That's all I'm saying. If you got money to burn. Burn it.

The problem in pa with older trucks like you mention has ansolutly nothing to do with drive train. You can find lots of trucks with pretty nice drive lines but finding one without rustholes in the body or a bad frame is allot more of a chalenge.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Do we get pics???

 

[Ashful]

The problem in pa with older trucks like you mention has ansolutly nothing to do with drive train. You can find lots of trucks with pretty nice drive lines but finding one without rustholes in the body or a bad frame is allot more of a chalenge.

Exactatically. My last truck had very low miles, and not a single mechanical problem, but the door corners, rear fenders, and rear bumper were completely rusting out.

 

[Ashful]

Do we get pics???

Not very exciting, just a used pickup truck, but since you asked:

 

[Ashful]

Right but 1-2k a year does not justify the 10000$ a year depreciation. That's all I'm saying. If you got money to burn. Burn it.

How on earth do you get anywhere near $10k depreciation per year on a used truck? Depreciation on this 2015 truck will be approximately $2k per year, averaged over the next 10 years. Even the original owner only averaged under $6k per year for the first two years, assuming they paid near Invoice price, and not MSRP.

 

[Lloyd the redneck]

Because a 5-6 year old 60-70k vehicle sells for 14k in my area

 

[maple1]

I don't think he paid 60-70 for it.

You guys in other rust areas ever hear of Rust Check? Krown? etc...? Anyone in rust areas should be using it, it's almost one of those 'no brainers'.

 

[Ashful]

I don't think he paid 60-70 for it.

Exactly. In fact, less than half that!

Because a 5-6 year old 60-70k vehicle sells for 14k in my area

The current 12-year old equivalent of that truck with the sort of mileage and usage I'll put on it trades in around $8k today, which accounting for 3% average inflation, will be $11,700 in 2027. I paid less than $20k over that, translating to less than $2k per year, averaged over the ten years I'm likely to keep it.

I am not sure why you are comparing my $30k used truck, which was only $42k back when it was new, to a $70k vehicle.

 

[Bad LP]

I don't think he paid 60-70 for it.

You guys in other rust areas ever hear of Rust Check? Krown? etc...? Anyone in rust areas should be using it, it's almost one of those 'no brainers'.

Fluid Film is commonly used but it's kind of light. I have a guy spray a product from New Hampshire Undercoating (or something like that) it comes clear or black. Hit all the frame areas and fasteners plus inside the rockers. Black makes the truck frame look brand new.

 

[Ashful]

The question du jour is whether to dump the new Flowmaster kit out the back under the bumper, or out the sides behind the rear wheels. So many arguments for going each way, many centering on whether the vehicle will be used for trailering.

Those who like rear exhaust think it looks sportier, and I agree, but I might be tempted to swap to a bumper with tailpipe cutouts if I go that route. Those who prefer side exhaust say the rear pipes will asphyxiate you while hooking up your trailer, and they reflect too much noise into the cabin when pulling solid-wall trailers. There's also a concern about blowing dirty condensation on your pretty white racing boat with rear exhaust, which is an issue for me, if it's even a real occurance.